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I use lead sheet between the jaws and barrel with pretty good results. Anyone else use lead???

My 13" south bend has the 3 step pulley and with a buck 4 jaw chuck and an outboard spider I made, I can just fit a 28" blank in it through the headstock. The 4 step model would be a pain to chamber through the headstock.

This may be a dumb question, but why go with the .4715? The factory Lapua brass is .469 at the base. On my PPC reamer I ordered the base at .440 and it works and extracts great and that brass is .439 unfired. My Redding small base die for the ppc sizes it down to around .4395.

I already have a good relationship with a reamer manufacturer and am just in need of some numbers. I like to look at what everyone else does and make a determination on what I should do. Thanks for all the replies and I hope to get some more.

MSC industrial stocks them. I use a 1.0625x20tpi. It can be threaded into the action by hand without a tap wrench.

I am getting ready to order a 30 BR reamer and want everyones numbers on what they use for a reamer. What neck and base diameter, throat angle, and freebore do you use? I have not settled on any specific bullet yet so I want to hit somewhere in the middle of the road to make tuning easier. I...

Here was my solution.

I had a similar problem with an old used buck chuck that I have and I fixed it by figuring out how much the jaws were out of square and then putting them in a sine vise and grinding them in my surface grinder. Only took about a half an hour to fix it.

I agree with dennis on the epoxy. If you weld on the action at all you will make it move. After you weld it how much truing will you do to correct what strength you added? People would be surprised how much metal moves from any amount of any type of arc welding that you do.

I use wood bushings and then place a sheet of lead on top of the bushing. I removed a barrel from a Enfield P17 once that took 8 hrs to get it off. It was so tight that I had a 6 ft bar on my homemade action wrench and couldnt get enough grip on the barrel to keep it from spinning. I ended up...

I should have been a little more clear, I am talking about the core. I wasnt sure if the core had to be sealed. I am just a little picky about how it looks around the bolt handle relief and was wanting to black out the small areas that can be seen so it wont add much weight at all. Should I...

I am working on a Mcmillan Edge stock and am wondering what can/should be done with the soft gray material after the stock is done? Is there any paint or coating that should be put on it? Also, are you supposed to clear coat the outside of the stock to make it shiney? Sorry for the novice...

They shot just fine. They were only out probably .020 or so, but when you put them between centers to polish up the outside they dont run true in the center. Then when I cut them off to crown them, the bore is not in the center of the blank. The only ones that were centered and true, are the...

In the middle. The ends were always close.

I have no problem with shilen, but every one that I have chambered that was already tapered by shilen had a lot of runout when stuck between centers. I thought that was normal, but the last barrel I did was a krieger and it had no runout. I dont know if it matters but the shilen barrels were...

My LRPV I built a 6 br LRPV with a shilen barrel fitted without the barrel nut and a few weeks ago shot a 249-12X at an informal match at the local club. It was on handloads and it was the second rifle I chambered with only basic action truing. I believe that it is on par with the average 700...

I just chambered a 300 win mag a few days ago and all I did was drill and bore the hole about .010 under the shoulder dia for the entire depth, and then I stepped it a little larger for about the first inch. It allowed about the full pilot to go into the rifling. After I was done the chamber...