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Thought I had seen/heard in the past that using wax paper with your reamer when cutting would dampen chatter caused by the reamer running up on the canted lands?

I have to agree with you here. I've always found Sierra more consistent. I just want my cake and eat it too. :o

I've toured both Hornady and Sierra's plant. Hornady was much more sensitive to their process of inserting their plastic tips as opposed to Sierra. Hornady would not show their process to us but Sierra did. I also felt that Sierra's hospitality was much better. I do wish Sierra's pricing was...

Talk to Sierra about their 300 yard range. I'm sure they've learned a thing or two over the years.

What are these blanks worth? He wants to sell them and I told him I would check into it.

The tree was dead when it was cut up about a month ago. The stocks have not been dried any other way.

Walnut Stock blanks A buddy has 11 stock blanks like the one in the attachments and was wondering what they would be worth. He cut a tree down and this was the results. Would would a blank like this be worth as I have no idea.

Upon further inspection, I removed the firing pin and examined the cocking ramp. It looks like there is a small variation (i.e. small dimple) in the cocking ramp right about the area where the firing pin head rides up the cocking ramp when opened. I noticed it was dry and put some copper...

I'll try and get some pics. This rig has already been sent out twice. Once for the build and once to correct bedding. There truly is a difference b/t different 'smiths work.

Are you talking about cocking area behind bolt handle being boogered? When I had it trued/rebarreled, the 'smith tig'ed the bold handle on well. In looking at the ramp, it appears to look fine. Is this something I can inspect with layout fluid?

I had a Rem 700 single point trued and rebarreled....Threads, bolt lugs, receiver face trued. The back of the lugs look smooth with no imperfection or variation to the naked eye. However, when I cam the bolt up while cocked, I can feel a slight 'tick'. A better way to put is that the resistance...

I have to ask this and it's something I can relate to....You mentioned you worked on the barrel at night? Was it a scenario where you had a long day and wasn't "fresh" but decided to push on b/c you wanted to get to work on it and get it done? This is when I'm not as attentive and know better...

Another good site: http://thomas.loc.gov/home/thomas.php

I have heard some in the past mention the dreaded click when opening a 700 bolt. Can someone explain the issue at hand and how to correct? I'm assuming the issue is related to camming and extraction.

Thanks for the responses. This is a new rig that will be used by my son this year to deer hunt. I always clean a new rig before trying it out and this is what I found when I went to do so. After trying some initial loads, I have to say it is definitely minute of deer. No BR rig by any means but...

This is from a new Remington 700 out of the box. It appears that metal shavings were still in the lug area when the bolt was rotated. The back of the lugs look good as well as the bolt face. However, the side of the lugs are scratched up. What is the best way to polish/buff out?

To keep it from clumping, get you a straw and cut a smal 1/4" piece and slide it into the tube of the trickler. This should cover the threads and reduce the "clumping" as you are dispensing.

Butch, I work in healthcare for a large healthcare company and my office is next to Vanderbilt. Vanderbilt is one of the finest schools in the country and if he receives his B.S./B.A. from there, you can rest assured that there is no place he can't go. I grew up in Brentwood and am a native...

I use these: http://www.lcmlab.com/SearchResults.asp?Cat=23

I have Leupold, Nikon, S&B, Nightforce, and Zeiss (Conquest) among some cheaper scopes. The Zeiss Conquest for a varmint scope seems to be the ticket for my needs. I like my S&B and Nightforce but it isn't needed and is too heavy. The Conquest glass is unreal for the money.