Dialing in your bbl

Nic, remember your plane geometry. Two points define a straight line....any two points. So, pick a point where the chamber neck/leade center coincides with the barrel bore center and a point where the center of the muzzle is. Line up these two points along the line that is the centerline of your lathe spindle and, BINGO!

There is really nothing you can do about any barrel bore center points between those two that are not on that line.

I remember my plane geometry, analytical geometry, calculus, and more just fine (every engineer takes those classes and more).

It is true that two points define a line, it is not true that their is only one line that can be defined for the wandering bore in a given barrel. It is only by coincidence that the line described above will align with anything of interest in the bore.

The common assumption seems to be that we are limited to one straight line per barrel. That is an incorrect assumption. The fact that lots of chambers have been done based on an incorrect assumption doesn't make it a correct assumption. It is true to say that only one straight line at a time can be aligned with the lathe spindle.

In theory any number of lines can be defined by choosing different two point locations in the bore. Fortunately for us, in a practical sense related to accuracy, only two of those lines matter and they can be aligned with the lathe spindle one at a time. They are the bore segment immediately after the chamber and the bore segment immediately before the muzzle exit. These are two independent bore segments which only align with each other, or the single line described above, by coincidence, within the limits of the technology used to make the bore.

To take advantage of this understanding is relatively easy. The barrel can be aligned twice, defining two independent lines. One at the breech aligned with the bore immediately after the chamber throat, and again after reversing the barrel in the headstock, with the bore immediately preceeding the exit at the muzzle. That is exactly what happens using Gordy Gritter's approach. Recognition that we are not limited to one line segment per barrel is in fact the genius of Gordy's approach.

It is clearly possible to make good shooting barrels using the single line approach described, and it has been done lots of times, but it happens by coincidence, not because it is the best practice. Theory says the percentage of good shooting barrels will be higher for a given selection of barrels, given equivelant attention to detail, using the two line approach. I think the results of this are what result in Gordy's finding that his "percentage of hummers" went up when he started using this approach.

If barrels are pre-selected based on bore straightness, the gain from using the two line approach will be less than if the barrels are not pre-selected based on bore straightness. It may be that if the bores are straght enough the gain will be small enough that it's not worth the effort to do the 2 line approach. On the other hand, small differences are exactly what it is all about in benchrest shooting.

It is, at least in theory, possible to have bores straight enough that there is zero difference, but that seems unlikely any time in the near future.

Fitch
 
Fitch,
How many barrels have you chambered and shot? One of these days if you shoot very much and find for some reason in a match that a barrel doesn't shoot,. Instead of saying I'll do the best I can, you will put another barrel on. Chambering the way that you are advocating may put your point of aim off far enough to be off the target board. At 200 yards. do you have enough skill and guts to get it on paper and shoot a competitive group? Now if you are in this to be with the guys and shoot OK every once in a while, your way will work.
As Bill Leeper said, if it is off a lot, it just needs to be sent back.
Fitch, If you have a relatively straight barrel, how much trouble will you be in if you indicate the crown and the throat at the same time. If you indicate the throat, drill and taper bore before reaming and then ream, do you think you will be less straight than Gordy's way? Don't forget that Gordy's range rod will have the .0002 clearence between the bushing and the rod and you will have at least an additional .0002 clearence between the bushing and the top of the lands. Your tolerance could be stacking already.
All of this being said the real gunsmiths out there that do all the top notch work think all of this is a real funny thing to read.
OK, how much do you think that I am giving away in alignment by indicating the crown, indicating the grooves at the throat, drilling, reindicating the throat, taper boring, and reaming as against Gordy's method? Not much if any! If the barrel is an elipse or a helix you won't gain anything.
Butch
 
. One at the breech aligned with the bore immediately after the chamber throat, and again after reversing the barrel in the headstock, with the bore immediately preceeding the exit at the muzzle. That is exactly what happens using Gordy Gritter's approach. Recognition that we are not limited to one line segment per barrel is in fact the genius of Gordy's approach.

It is clearly possible to make good shooting barrels using the single line approach described, and it has been done lots of times, but it happens by coincidence, not because it is the best practice. Theory says the percentage of good shooting barrels will be higher for a given selection of barrels, given equivelant attention to detail, using the two line approach. I think the results of this are what result in Gordy's finding that his "percentage of hummers" went up when he started using this approach.

If barrels are pre-selected based on bore straightness, the gain from using the two line approach will be less than if the barrels are not pre-selected based on bore straightness. It may be that if the bores are straght enough the gain will be small enough that it's not worth the effort to do the 2 line approach. On the other hand, small differences are exactly what it is all about in benchrest shooting.

It is, at least in theory, possible to have bores straight enough that there is zero difference, but that seems unlikely any time in the near future.

Fitch
I like your presentation of the differences in the one line method and a two line method . We can use that as a better clarification of describing benchrest barrel chambering methods.

I eagerly await your definitive proof that the percentage of hummer barrels is, or will be, greater using the two line method.
 
Fitch,
How many barrels have you chambered and shot?

None yet. But that doesn't invalidate what I wrote.

I hesitated to reply the first time, but this remember your geometry one line BINGO! thing got to me because it is not the whole story. More than one line can be defined which I think I pretty clearly demonstrated.

This is a forum for dialog on the subject of accuracy, shooting, and related stuff. Differing points of view should be addressed logically. If everybody just agrees that what's been done a lot is the best way because it's been done a lot, it really limits the opportunities to advance the science.

I don't think the one line, two line, thing is like the big enders little enders argument in Gulliver's Travels. There are underlying physical principles here that are being applied differently.

I've been right a lot of times in my life when nobody agreed with me at the start. I once have about every body in the NASA electrical establishment and all of those at Boeing thinking I was nuts, but they came around eventually. And I've been shown where I was wrong, more than once, in which case it was me that did the coming around. No problem. All I want is to understand the theoretically correct approach - it's hard to work for improvement if one doesn't have a clear understanding of the underlying physics. Folks may not do it that way, but that doesn't change the physics of the situation.

In the interest of completeness, and in the search for understanding, I just had to bring up the other point of view. I didn't say a person can't have an accurate barrel blindly centering the bore at throat and crown regardless of anything else, folks have done that. In fact I acknowledge that it has happened a lot. I just don't think it is the best way, and I stated (clearly I hope) the theory behind my thinking. I haven't heard a logical argument that says the one line approach is better in theory, just that it is done a lot, everybody does it, and that makes it better. That isn't an argument that I tend to give a lot of credence to.

That said, the two line approach may not be all that much better, especially if one is working with barrels that happen to have really straight bores near the muzzle and breech. As bores get straighter and straighter the performance (group size) of the barrels will converge. If the bores are perfectly straight, there is no difference at all.

One of these days if you shoot very much and find for some reason in a match that a barrel doesn't shoot,. Instead of saying I'll do the best I can, you will put another barrel on.

That's what got me into this to begin with. The 9" twist .22-250 Rem barrel on my LRPV is wearing out - it's still good enough to take out a ground hog at 300 yards, but it isn't as competitive at matches as it was. I want to put on a new barrel. The new barrel is going to be chambered in .243Win. I already have dies for .243 WIN. I'm going to rebarrel my sporter that is already chambered in .243 because it shoots 1+ MOA groups and I'd like it to do better. I may set back and rechamber the .22-250 barrel and save it for GH hunting.

[/QUOTE]Chambering the way that you are advocating may put your point of aim off far enough to be off the target board. [/QUOTE]

I'm no stranger to barrels pointing in odd places. When it was new, my factory stock Savage LRPV shot quarter minute groups 12 minutes left of being aligned with the receiver - I needed to use windage adjustable mounts to get it centered enough to make the scope useful out to 500 meters which is as far as I've shot it so far. Windage changes with range changes in no-wind conditions. I'm going to recrown it and if I rechamber it I'll see if I can chamber it so it points up.

My friends stock BVSS (also a .22-250) shot so far to the right his scope ran out of clicks with the bullet still off the 14" wide paper. The scope had 28 minutes of windage, the paper was 14" wide. It was off the paper to the right when he shot at the left edge with the scope all the way left. Near as we could tell it was 28" right out of the box. He returned it to Savage, they apparently rotated the barrel, when it came back it shot more centered (8 minutes right) and a LOT higher. He was better able to deal with the up than the right. I'd be surprised if I did worse than that.

The way Savage chambers barrels it is a wonder they shoot as well as they do.

I plan to put the deviation up in the vertical plane, which will probably take some practice to do predictably.

At 200 yards. do you have enough skill and guts to get it on paper and shoot a competitive group?

At the range where I shoot, yes. I have shot in 4 matches, all last summer. I finished 2nd in light custom in my first match, won the next two in factory class shooting 75g bullets out of my .22-250. The competition included targets at 200, 300, and 500 meters. On a national scale, not competative, no even close. Though once I get a rifle built and some more experience I may journey up to Williamsport to take their 1000 yard shooting school. It's only about 2 hours north of me.

I'm just starting. My problem is reading the wind, not the rifle. I was shooting with what I bought to be a varmint hunting rifle with an inexpensive 6-24x40 scope on it. I had no thought of getting into competition with it, but it was serious fun and I got hooked! I love it when the holes appear where I'm aiming!

Now if you are in this to be with the guys and shoot OK every once in a while, your way will work.
As Bill Leeper said, if it is off a lot, it just needs to be sent back.
Fitch, If you have a relatively straight barrel, how much trouble will you be in if you indicate the crown and the throat at the same time.

I wrote that as the bore gets straighter, the difference between the approaches gets smaller and smaller. Note, that if the bore is really really straight, the two line approach ends up with the same result as the one line throat muzzle approach. If they are a bit different, then in theory, the two line approach results in smaller groups because of improved symmetry of interaction between the bullet and the bore, although they may be located in a different place on the paper before the sights are adjusted.

I want to optimize my chambering efforts to get smaller groups, sights are adjustable.

The comparison is a hard thing to test. There are so many variables that isolating one thing to parametrically characterize it's effect is nearly impossible for some one not involved in a government funded study. Certainly not possible for me to do it. I need to get that book on accuracy factors and read it. That's high on my list.

[/QUOTE]If you indicate the throat, drill and taper bore before reaming and then ream, do you think you will be less straight than Gordy's way? Don't forget that Gordy's range rod will have the .0002 clearence between the bushing and the rod and you will have at least an additional .0002 clearence between the bushing and the top of the lands. Your tolerance could be stacking already.[/QUOTE]

I wondered about that. Had the following thoughts.

To start with, the Grizzly rod bushing fits tighter in the bore than the end of a DTI. I realize the tip of the DTI presses against one side of the bore so what is being measured is the relative location of one side of the bore as the barrel is rotated. The bushing on the Grizzly rod will press against one side of the bore just like the tip of the DTI. The bushing is larger in diameter so it should move relatively smoothly rolling over the lands instead of dropping into them. The bushing will be centering the tops of the lands. I don't know if the DTI tip will always get to the bottom of the grooves or not. Probably will in most cases - in which case one has a choice between centering the top of the lands or the bottom of the grooves.

The reamer pilot centers on the top of the lands so there might be some benefit to using that data.

The question is, now sensitive will the measurement system be? That is, if the bushing moves .0002", what will the DTI that is measuring rod displacement indicate?

Assuming for a moment that the range rod is 13" long, 12" sticking out from the tailstock chuck, and that the DTI presses against it 1" from end and 3" from the end. With this geometry, if the end of the bushing moves .00020", the DTI will move .00018" if it is 1" from the bushing. If the bushing moves .0002" the DTI will move .00015" if it is 3" from the bushing. It's more a matter of sensitivity than anything else.

If a DTI has been fitted with a longer than normal probe tip, like I've read that some folks do, the sensitivity is reduce by the ratio of the original tip length divided by the new tip length. The Grizzly rod is more accurate if a DTI has been fitted with a noticably longer than normal probe tip, slightly less accurate if the DTI was calibrated with the long tip.

I think it is pretty much a wash.

[/QUOTE]All of this being said the real gunsmiths out there that do all the top notch work think all of this is a real funny thing to read. [/QUOTE]

Not all of them. But I don't see what that has to do with anything. If the whole world says 2+2=3 that doesn't make it right. It just means folks agree to something that isn't right. Physics isn't negotiable, it is what it is. One can make compromises in approach accepting the differences as negligable, but that doesn't change the underlying physics.

OK, how much do you think that I am giving away in alignment by indicating the crown, indicating the grooves at the throat, drilling, reindicating the throat, taper boring, and reaming as against Gordy's method? Not much if any!

If the bores are straight, you are right, not much. I agree, the straighter the bores, the less you give away. What mystifies me is why you want to give away anything? :D

If the barrel is an elipse or a helix you won't gain anything.
Butch

OK, this last confused me. Elipse or helix? I'm not sure what geometry you are applying the ellipse or helix to. Bore cross section elliptical instead of round? Bore centerline describing a helical path down the barrel?

Thanks
Fitch
 
Fitch,
I'm going to try one more time.You are beating me down as I am a 2 finger typer. When I say helix or ellipse, I am speaking of the travel of the hole through the barrel, not the shape of the diameter of the hole.
A barrel bushing is .500 long. If you push that bushing through the bore it would lock up in the bore if it changed direction very quickly. I have seen a couple like that and sent them back. That would lead me to believe that at least .500 in front of the throat, it is not out a tenth or two. I personally do not use a tight fitting bushing on my reamer as I do not want it influencing what my reamer is doing. I want my reamer to follow the carefully bored hole that is coaxial to the lathes bearings.
Even if you use Gordy's method with a barrel that is not straight, you will still be asking the bullet to change directions also.
When I talk about changing barrels, I mean during a match when you are in a time restraint between groups, not with your Buddies at the range. I sure as hell wouldn't change barrels if I were chambering with a flopping muzzle.
Fitch, I went through some of the same things when I started barreling. I think you need to put a few in the headstock and see how they run. It would even help if you knew where in the barrel that the bore took off in a strange direction.
I do understand trying to get the last tenth out of your setup. I use to chamber that way and decided that it caused more problems than it fixed. You will find, if you stay with this, that you will alter your methods from time to time.
By the way, what kind of tips did you put in your adjusting screws in your cathead?
Butch
 
Is the sky falling ???

It is! Much more concise than pedagogically verbose too.

Fitch

"pedagogically"... I had to look up the word, lol.

I have been reading every word of this thread, i don't know anything about chambering "yet". i don't even know how to cut threads "yet". i just bough a new china lathe $2100. I'm gonna chamber and thread at least 1 bbl. I'm trying to learn how to sharpen a tool that will cut a thread, when i leatrn how to cut 'em. I'm at square 1 to say the least. Once i do one i might just throw the lathe in the trash but i'm gonna do at least one.

I think some of what Fitch makes sense, maybe because i don't have a clue. i don't know "yet".

I'm to hear: With Gordy and his range rod and the muzzle end making a 1" circle or helix or what ever, I don't get the point??
Does that need to be done just so you can chuck up the breech square for a run of 2 or 3 inches?

It seems to me if you have the bbl in a bind or twist (didn't know they were that crooked)... When relaxed they are going to go back crooked. If you could square up the breech for several inches by clamping it in the chuck, wouldn't that chamber?

I know these are dumb questions and i will keep reading. Don't give up Fitch, i think you got them on the run, lol!! Thanks for all the info! joe
joe
 
Joe,
I would suggest that you print out all of these chambering posts and try several setups before you make chips. When I talk curve or helix in a barrel, it is so subtle that it is hard to see or measure. It could look like a jump rope when the barrel is turning. Barreling is always going to be a compromise until they find a way to poke a straight hole through the barrel. If a barrel has a curve or whatever, it doesn't magically start at the same place every time.
You're own chambering method will evolve over time. I will guarantee that your method will change if you do much chambering. Look on the equipment list at the gunsmiths that do the top finishing rifles on a regular basis. Contact them and visit with them. They ain't no secrets out there and I have found them to be free with their knowledge.
I believe that a lot of barrels chucked with a 3-4-6 jaw have been bent or in a bind during chambering. A lot of the guys are going to a cathead on each end of the headstock and that helps. If not doing that you need to cushion the barrel in the chuck with something like copper or aluminum wire.
You will have a lot of satisfaction with your first one.
Butch
 
Turning over a new leaf...

Butch, great post you sure are getting nice in your older age... What has happen to your gruff post that deltronic pins are the one and only way to center a barrel, with a pre drilled and bored tenon, and not forgetting to use Intrepid long nosed indicators. I can almost remember all those old post by heart.

Nat
 
If you guys can tolerate my dumb questions for a while i appreciate it.. i think i will have a fun adventure learning about chambering.

Your comment about "bending" makes sense, that's sorat whay i was thinking. Mr Fitch http://www.benchrest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59010 and other have made nice "spiders", cat heads or what ever they are called.
With a couple of spyders, don't look like you could bend anything but i notice you asked Fitch what his "tips" were made out of. I think maybe you suggest copper over brass, somebody did, but that theory seems to go back and fourth.

Some of the guys say .0002 runout before they chamber, (i'll never get to there). That would take some mighty nice spyders to hold that tolerance.

I do see where your coming from bending with wide clamping jaws in the chuck. Mine came with an extra set of jaws with about 3/4 " clamping instead of the about 1 1/2" clamping jaws are in it now. Make sense now what the other jaws are for.

So now it looks to me like chambering in the steady rest may not be all that bad. (could be less bending" depending on how the barrel is chucked. my brain hurts, lol. thanks again joe

(anyone ever chrony a chuck key?? I think i got about 1076 today, Wrote all my setting down called it my "red box", lol)
 
Hmmmmm

I have never actually chambered a barrel to Benchrest Specs, but I did stay in a "Holiday Inn Express" last night...........jackie
 
(anyone ever chrony a chuck key?? I think i got about 1076 today, Wrote all my setting down called it my "red box", lol)

Joe, for God's sakes be careful. Make sure what you are doing before turning a spindle on. I was in the shops for 40 years. I saw one guy get his arm torn off leaving a chuck wrench in a chuck on a Monarch EE that was set for about 3,000 rpm. Saw a few fingers torn off too. Remove your finger rings, watches and long sleeve shirts.

I have been scared to death a few times too in the 8 years I spent teaching evenings Machine Tool Technology and Manufacturing Engineering Technology at a local community college. It is very easy to get seriously injured with a machine tool.

They say the good Lord takes care of fools and idiots. Must be why I'm still here!!
 
Nat,
I did the Deltronic thing in the past, but have gone on to greater things. My best barrel job, or should I say my best performing one was done this way. I did the Gordy way before that . That was a few years before Gordy made his movie. Gordy does good work and deserves credit for putting up with us if nothing else. I am not claiming that I did this before Gordy, it was just suggested by Pat Byrne in about 1999. It sounded good at the time. Pat no longer chambers that way anymore.
Butch
 
Fitch,
I'm going to try one more time.You are beating me down as I am a 2 finger typer.

Don't mean to. This will be a lot shorter. I touch type around 70 words a minute. And that's the good news. :eek:

When I say helix or ellipse, I am speaking of the travel of the hole through the barrel, not the shape of the diameter of the hole.

Ok. I don't think that matters as long as it doesn't do anything fast enough to deform the bullet.

A barrel bushing is .500 long. If you push that bushing through the bore it would lock up in the bore if it changed direction very quickly. I have seen a couple like that and sent them back.

Would be at least one objective test a person could run - will a bushing slide through the barrel?

That would lead me to believe that at least .500 in front of the throat, it is not out a tenth or two.

Good point. Is the bore .500" beyond the throat aligned with the chamber centerline? If so, that should be about perfect.

I personally do not use a tight fitting bushing on my reamer as I do not want it influencing what my reamer is doing. I want my reamer to follow the carefully bored hole that is coaxial to the lathes bearings.
Even if you use Gordy's method with a barrel that is not straight, you will still be asking the bullet to change directions also.

What I'm concerned about isn't the bullet changing directions someplace between the entrance and exit segments, it is giving the bullet the best chance of entering the bore with out experiencing asymetric forces that might distort it or cock it in the bore. I think that best chance happens when the bullet enters the throat pointing right down the the center of the next bore segment.

The other time that is important is during and immediately after the bullet leaves the muzzle. At that point it would be detrimental for the bullet to experience asymetric forces that would cause it to change it's path. I've read someplace that the bullet actually accelerates for some short distance after leaving the muzzle, but I'm not sure that is true.

When I talk about changing barrels, I mean during a match when you are in a time restraint between groups, not with your Buddies at the range. I sure as hell wouldn't change barrels if I were chambering with a flopping muzzle.

Oh! I see. It never occured to me to change barrels in the middle of a match. I need to think that through to understand what the impact of one-line or two-line chambering would be on that process. My first thought would be that I definitely need to machine my Savage barrels with a shoulder instead of using the barrel nut.

Fitch, I went through some of the same things when I started barreling. I think you need to put a few in the headstock and see how they run. It would even help if you knew where in the barrel that the bore took off in a strange direction.

I absolutely agree that, at this point, nothing would speed up my learning curve faster than chambering a few barrels. If the bleeping economy hadn't deflated my savings I'd have one in the headstock now and a couple more waiting. As it is, it will have to wait for some undetermined time.

Besides market deflated savings, my toy money comes from designing houses for folks. The home building market around here is flatter than spent brass on a train track ... after the train went by. Good folks, excellent credit, and hefty down payments are having a terrible time getting financing.

I do understand trying to get the last tenth out of your setup. I use to chamber that way and decided that it caused more problems than it fixed. You will find, if you stay with this, that you will alter your methods from time to time.

No doubt.

By the way, what kind of tips did you put in your adjusting screws in your cathead?
Butch

In the one on the back of the headstock I have brass tips in home made 1/2-20 bolts (I like single pointing threads so I made the bolts for that one).

Done-spindleside.jpg


The one that replaces the chuck just has them dog pointed so they are steel. This picture shows them turned into the center. When they are retracted the cap screw heads are about flush with the OD of the chuck body.

Donefrontallin1RS.jpg


I'm planning to use a thin aluminum collet around the barrel and have the screws clamping on that.

I have some brass and some copper that I could use to make tips for a second set of spider bolts if that's a better way to go. My concern about the spider chuck is having the barrel slip in the chuck. Quite a few folks are using them so they must work.

Fitch
 
Joe,
I would suggest that you print out all of these chambering posts and try several setups before you make chips.

<snip>

Joe,

I've done what Butch suggests. I spent hours doing searches on this and two other forums, pasted what I considered to be the best parts of related threads (some of the best parts were dialogues on various ways to do things) into an MS-WORD document. I can print it as a PDF file and e-mail it to you. It has a ton of useful data in it. A lot of the posts came with pictures. I printed it, put it in a loose leaf notebook and studied it.

Fitch
 
Joe,

I've done what Butch suggests. I spent hours doing searches on this and two other forums, pasted what I considered to be the best parts of related threads (some of the best parts were dialogues on various ways to do things) into an MS-WORD document. I can print it as a PDF file and e-mail it to you. It has a ton of useful data in it. A lot of the posts came with pictures. I printed it, put it in a loose leaf notebook and studied it.

Fitch

mr fitch that would be appreciated! bigjgarage@aol.com
thanks joe
 
I'm a "Proof in the Pudding" kind of guy.......I chamber exactly as Butch and most benchrest smiths of some repute do. I'm under the impression most chamber as I will describe or a similar version.
In the headstock, long indicator at the throat area (I do my set up on the lands, some do it in the grooves), drilled out and then taper bored chamber area and then "finish" reamed only. The outboard spider has the muzzle centered on the bore (I cut my barrels to finished length first so I'm centering on the finished muzzle area)

I've set a barrel up in the lathe as Gordy does, (Kreiger 6mm). I could not believe how far out the muzzle was. I'm not sure how in the world I could set that barrel up to the receiver and be assured the muzzle was in the "up" position. And if I did, I doubt my scope would have enough "down".

My question to the forum........Have any benchrest matches been consistently won or records broken with Gordy's method? I'm asking as I really don't know. If most, if not all records and matches are won with my described method, where is the foul?

Building a rifle with the muzzle intentionally off centerline to the breach just seems improper to me. I do not believe the slight misalignment of bullet to throat in my chambering method causes enough issue to be concerned about. Lord knows there are way more issues to upset accuracy in the typical benchrest "Bullets, barrels and bedding".....

Like I said, The proof is in the pudding!
 
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