What thing(s) you do not like on the seb rest?
- Thread starter seblambang
- Start date
seblambang
seb
G'Day Seb,
I bought my rest from Rob Carnell at the Australian 2007 BR Nationals and haven't looked back since.
Marvelous piece of kit. I'd been looking at the Farleys for some time, but your rest was the best value for $$$ packed with great features like being able to swivel the whole top to square it up to the rifle.
The only fault (if you can call it a fault) is it does not go low enough for F class where the firing line mounds, here in Australia, are sloping back leaving the rear bag too low; ideal for sling shooters but a real pain for bag/rest shooters. so you need to have spacer blocks under the rear bag to get on target because the rest top does not go low enough.
However, this is mainly because I chose to use a low profile BR stocked rifle to shoot F class and BR rather than re-stocking it for purely F class use. But this rifle can go from a Australian BR sporter (max 9lb) to a 500m fly (max 17lb)/F class rifle by using a weight system and swapping barrels. Life is sometimes a compromise!
Either way, I love it!
Keep up the good work and remember the people dont like your product are grossly outnumbered by those who love it!
Cheerio Ned
Thanks you for your support & inputs, Ned.
seb.
.....
To all,
The only reason I posted this thread was to gather inputs, for the next improvements & my new model rest (it's still in development and I don't know when would be available due to my work loads). --- As you can see, I did not ask what things do people like on the seb rest/my products, but for what they DO NOT like only. And my question was actually/honestly intended for shooters that have/used/tried the seb rest, or would like to have one - because they DESERVE to get the informations.
If someones "think" that my rest/products do not sell because I posted this thread, they're wrong indeed. I can't tell you the exact number but I have sold at least 450 rests to 21 countries and my production rate is still lower than the demand, till now.
No one perfect, I might even worse. I only try to make my products as good as possible, here.
seb.
Last edited:
seblambang
seb
Update on the new rest, need input/cristism rather than compliment
Good morning,
You might probably seen this already...
http://www.targetshooter.co.uk/
http://www.accurateshooter.com/bulletin.html
Here bellow some more pics of my new model rest...
I have sent several prototypes and received feedback/inputs from some.
Anyway, I also hope I can get more inputs & critisms from this forum, for possible improvements/changes.
Please. I know there are a lot of experts / experienced shooters here.
But only for inputs or cristisms, please...
In your opinion, WHAT THING(S) I STILL CAN IMPROVE / CHANGE / ADD on this rest?
Here we go...
The "Neo" will come with a wood block leveler, an "alignment cord", 4 allen wrenches, a manual sheet, and perhaps a DVD manual.
The wood block leveler is 3" by 2 1/4" with a "cross slot" in the center, so you would be able to set the bubble level (it will be a rectangular precision level) to your needs / according to your rifle stock's width. Or you can glue it yourself if you only use 3" stock, or 2 1/4" stock. Kinda like a bit "do it yourself" leveler.
You can set the base like this....
Or like this....
You CAN choose to operate the joystick & rest top in the same direction, or in reverse motion. (It's spesific to the SEB rest & the only one in the market. It can also be used either for right or left handed shooters without any modification)
You can choose to set the singe leg in front (on muzzle side), or at rear (shooter's side).
If you set the single leg at rear, the leg screw supposed to be very short, or "flush?", to not interfere with the joystick handle.
I will provide/include the screw option in the package.
I will also make another screw hole on the single leg, further back, so you'd be able to use the rest with the single leg in front, on a short bench top. (what you need is just to place the front screw further back).
Sorry my enlgish is not very well, I hope that you can understand with what I mean...
The alignment cord is made only to help center alignment between the front rest and rear bag, straight to the target.
It can also measure the distance between the front bag and the rear bag if you put "mark" on the cord. (marking pen or so would work).
Final alignment/setup by your rifle.
End post's stopper.
You will need to put the (2) stopper in place.
Instead for stopper, it will also protect the end posts from possible hard bump or so.
You can make a custom "L" plate to attach your timer and hold it between the post and stopper, for "more organized" setup.
You can aslo attach your timer on the "spare" screw hole on the carriage. (it's a standard metric M8 thread). ***Although not recommended, you can put the locking knobs on this thread, to facing you, in the reverse mode. You can attach an ammo holder/tray between the rear leg & screw counter nut, either to the left or right of the rear leg.
The regular seb ammo holder set would work on this rest when you set the leg w/ integral carrying handle at rear (like the base config shown in the photo above).
You will need to set the coaxial unit (carriage) at the highest position to remove the side plates, or when to fill the bags with sand. It would clear the end top posts.
You can also remove/slide off the carriage from the twin columns, if you wish.
If you remove the cover bottom plate, there are two leaf springs under the vertical sliding plate, to accept more weight on the top. (= it has a positive "built in" upward tension).
You can remove the teflon sheet, if you wish, such as for cleaning.
Tension adjustment can be done very easily, no tool is needed. It's just thumb screw type. It's large enough, knurled, with nylon insert inside for no lash.
***Counter nuts will be provided if you ask.
Two handwheels with adjustable "disc brake system" inside.
This that makes the carriage to "stop" at desired position, with extra smooth movement & almost no lash.
The idea,...it's similar to the "springs" you find on allen wrench sets. The spring would "bite" (the brake drum) instantly when it is rotated in the same direction and would loose when it is rotated in reverse direction. It works. ;D That's why I said the coaxial unit/carriage alone is "more complex" to make than making a bolt action. All the parts also CNC'ed with exacting tolerances.
Rack & pinion system with integral teeth.
Made from stainless steel SUS 420J.
New collet type joystick head attachment.
Many thanks in advance,
seb.
Good morning,
You might probably seen this already...
http://www.targetshooter.co.uk/
http://www.accurateshooter.com/bulletin.html
Here bellow some more pics of my new model rest...
I have sent several prototypes and received feedback/inputs from some.
Anyway, I also hope I can get more inputs & critisms from this forum, for possible improvements/changes.
Please. I know there are a lot of experts / experienced shooters here.
But only for inputs or cristisms, please...
In your opinion, WHAT THING(S) I STILL CAN IMPROVE / CHANGE / ADD on this rest?
Here we go...
The "Neo" will come with a wood block leveler, an "alignment cord", 4 allen wrenches, a manual sheet, and perhaps a DVD manual.
The wood block leveler is 3" by 2 1/4" with a "cross slot" in the center, so you would be able to set the bubble level (it will be a rectangular precision level) to your needs / according to your rifle stock's width. Or you can glue it yourself if you only use 3" stock, or 2 1/4" stock. Kinda like a bit "do it yourself" leveler.
You can set the base like this....
Or like this....
You CAN choose to operate the joystick & rest top in the same direction, or in reverse motion. (It's spesific to the SEB rest & the only one in the market. It can also be used either for right or left handed shooters without any modification)
You can choose to set the singe leg in front (on muzzle side), or at rear (shooter's side).
If you set the single leg at rear, the leg screw supposed to be very short, or "flush?", to not interfere with the joystick handle.
I will provide/include the screw option in the package.
I will also make another screw hole on the single leg, further back, so you'd be able to use the rest with the single leg in front, on a short bench top. (what you need is just to place the front screw further back).
Sorry my enlgish is not very well, I hope that you can understand with what I mean...
The alignment cord is made only to help center alignment between the front rest and rear bag, straight to the target.
It can also measure the distance between the front bag and the rear bag if you put "mark" on the cord. (marking pen or so would work).
Final alignment/setup by your rifle.
End post's stopper.
You will need to put the (2) stopper in place.
Instead for stopper, it will also protect the end posts from possible hard bump or so.
You can make a custom "L" plate to attach your timer and hold it between the post and stopper, for "more organized" setup.
You can aslo attach your timer on the "spare" screw hole on the carriage. (it's a standard metric M8 thread). ***Although not recommended, you can put the locking knobs on this thread, to facing you, in the reverse mode. You can attach an ammo holder/tray between the rear leg & screw counter nut, either to the left or right of the rear leg.
The regular seb ammo holder set would work on this rest when you set the leg w/ integral carrying handle at rear (like the base config shown in the photo above).
You will need to set the coaxial unit (carriage) at the highest position to remove the side plates, or when to fill the bags with sand. It would clear the end top posts.
You can also remove/slide off the carriage from the twin columns, if you wish.
If you remove the cover bottom plate, there are two leaf springs under the vertical sliding plate, to accept more weight on the top. (= it has a positive "built in" upward tension).
You can remove the teflon sheet, if you wish, such as for cleaning.
Tension adjustment can be done very easily, no tool is needed. It's just thumb screw type. It's large enough, knurled, with nylon insert inside for no lash.
***Counter nuts will be provided if you ask.
Two handwheels with adjustable "disc brake system" inside.
This that makes the carriage to "stop" at desired position, with extra smooth movement & almost no lash.
The idea,...it's similar to the "springs" you find on allen wrench sets. The spring would "bite" (the brake drum) instantly when it is rotated in the same direction and would loose when it is rotated in reverse direction. It works. ;D That's why I said the coaxial unit/carriage alone is "more complex" to make than making a bolt action. All the parts also CNC'ed with exacting tolerances.
Rack & pinion system with integral teeth.
Made from stainless steel SUS 420J.
New collet type joystick head attachment.
Many thanks in advance,
seb.
Last edited:
G
Gerry Nordmann
Guest
NEO pictures & Info
SEB,
Thanks for the Tech. info and pictures of your new NEO front rest.
I have copied the pics and text for a hand book to keep with the new
NEO rest I am expecting to receive later this year.
SEB,
Thanks for the Tech. info and pictures of your new NEO front rest.
I have copied the pics and text for a hand book to keep with the new
NEO rest I am expecting to receive later this year.
seblambang
seb
You're welcome, Gerry.
Gentlemen, your inputs / critisms please?
Anything you don't like or you think would be a problem, looking from the videos and pics above...
I forgot to mention that Mike Ratigan told me some days ago - to make the extra side adjusters lower, as the side bags press above the "flat" of his stock. It's too high now as I put the adjusters in the middle part.
Also that he must use the rest with the single leg towards to him on a short bench top.
(Thanks you so much Mike! I'm now trying different side bag's design - to make the bottom part "more square/straight". I might probably add a thin "spring plate" behind each side bag, that will be screwed in to the top portion of the side plate - so when the adjuster push this plate, this plate would push mainly the bottom part of the side bag.
I also plan to add one or two more thread holes on the single leg, further back).
I might probably change the front stop as well...i.e with nylon/delrin, and to make sure that the front stop wouldn't loose when in use. Maybe adjustable in height also.
More later,
seb.
Gentlemen, your inputs / critisms please?
Anything you don't like or you think would be a problem, looking from the videos and pics above...
I forgot to mention that Mike Ratigan told me some days ago - to make the extra side adjusters lower, as the side bags press above the "flat" of his stock. It's too high now as I put the adjusters in the middle part.
Also that he must use the rest with the single leg towards to him on a short bench top.
(Thanks you so much Mike! I'm now trying different side bag's design - to make the bottom part "more square/straight". I might probably add a thin "spring plate" behind each side bag, that will be screwed in to the top portion of the side plate - so when the adjuster push this plate, this plate would push mainly the bottom part of the side bag.
I also plan to add one or two more thread holes on the single leg, further back).
I might probably change the front stop as well...i.e with nylon/delrin, and to make sure that the front stop wouldn't loose when in use. Maybe adjustable in height also.
More later,
seb.
3 things;
The bags look too close to metal to meet IBS rules(I think it's 1/2").
The rest top doesn't look like it rotates to provide unbinding recoil on off-aligned front to rear to target setup.
Are there going to be handles for it? How do we pick it up from a case and set it down properly?
I had to correct these on my Farley
The bags look too close to metal to meet IBS rules(I think it's 1/2").
The rest top doesn't look like it rotates to provide unbinding recoil on off-aligned front to rear to target setup.
Are there going to be handles for it? How do we pick it up from a case and set it down properly?
I had to correct these on my Farley
Steve Nash
New member
crb,
I shoot with my Seb rest the same as you....what I did was turn an old Ruger 22.250 S/S barrel down to the same dimensions as Seb's handle and made a knob out of another piece of stainless but made it about 2 1/2" long and epoxied it to the handle...it weighs around a lb and has made the rest so smooth.
Cheers
Steve
I shoot with my Seb rest the same as you....what I did was turn an old Ruger 22.250 S/S barrel down to the same dimensions as Seb's handle and made a knob out of another piece of stainless but made it about 2 1/2" long and epoxied it to the handle...it weighs around a lb and has made the rest so smooth.
Cheers
Steve
seblambang
seb
Francis, I chose twin pillars from the beginning. IMO, that's more rigid.
The consequence is, the parts must be very precise / with exacting tolerances. That's why PaulMcMenamin from 6mmbr.com said it's engineering tour de force.
Everyone with technical knowledge knows that it's not easy/more difficult to make rack & pinion system with two fixed pillars. If the parts are not very precise, it wouldn't move smoothly.Re: the legs.
When the single leg is set in front, no matter "how hard" you push your rifle against the front stop, the rest wouldn't move.
If you don't "pin" your rifle, it's no matter how you set the legs, either side.
Re: the front stop.
I know what you mean.
Since the front stop on this rest cannot be twisted, actually you are able to set the side plates a bit to the right or to the left. This would also allow you to put the rest a bit closer to the left/right side of the bench, in case you shoot on a narrow bench.
Re: the base
Actually, the base can be made to any shape, weight, configuration etc. It can also be made to be pivoted/rotated like my regular rest if I want. So many choices on this one, but I HAVE TO choose one model that is "more unversal", and it must be handy/compact.
seb.
Last edited:
seblambang
seb
Mikecr,
#1. I'm now trying different side bag's design.
#2 & 3...Pardon me, I'm not quite understand?...my poor english
seblambang
seb
This is another base design....see attachment. (just a rough draft).
It's fold-able and the "sub base" can be pivoted a bit (around 12 degree).
I have some other designs, but I suspect that the base design I used on the current prototypes would be "more universal"....?
seb.
It's fold-able and the "sub base" can be pivoted a bit (around 12 degree).
I have some other designs, but I suspect that the base design I used on the current prototypes would be "more universal"....?
seb.
Robert Rongero
New member
Not Made in America
SEB Rest is built solid and works. I have one that I ordered directly from SEB because of nonavailability of the rest when I wanted one, so I contact Seb and he willingly accommodated me in building one for me in the color that I asked him for. This fine gentleman is owner and operator of a large Engineering Co in Indonesia and building Rifle Rest is not his primary source of income but does it because he is also a benchrest shooter and loves the sport.
Let us not pick on SEB just because his rest is not made in USA. How much does the rifle rest really affects our trade imbalance with other countries? Has anyone notice that Wal Mart the biggest retailer store in the country probably sell 80% of their products that are made in China, how about our electronic products that we used everyday, Clothes that we wear, cars that we drive. If the United States built quality products at reasonable prices I am all for it and Americans will start buying them but until then we live in a free market enterprise. By the way I drive a Ford Truck.
SEB Rest is built solid and works. I have one that I ordered directly from SEB because of nonavailability of the rest when I wanted one, so I contact Seb and he willingly accommodated me in building one for me in the color that I asked him for. This fine gentleman is owner and operator of a large Engineering Co in Indonesia and building Rifle Rest is not his primary source of income but does it because he is also a benchrest shooter and loves the sport.
Let us not pick on SEB just because his rest is not made in USA. How much does the rifle rest really affects our trade imbalance with other countries? Has anyone notice that Wal Mart the biggest retailer store in the country probably sell 80% of their products that are made in China, how about our electronic products that we used everyday, Clothes that we wear, cars that we drive. If the United States built quality products at reasonable prices I am all for it and Americans will start buying them but until then we live in a free market enterprise. By the way I drive a Ford Truck.
Don't ever overlook both sides of a blade..
Walmart brags on Wall Street about being 95%+ chinese. Have you forgotten these are a communist enemy of ours?
Or that Indonesia represents the largest muslim population?
Have you forgotten that Farley has provided coax rests for American BR shooters for quite some time, before all this market dividing/stealing?
Where do your loyalties lay?
Do you support the Harris copies, and ChargeMaster copies, and H&H copies, and Farley copies?
If so, I can't see why anyone will provide for you down the road.
We should NEVER have opened trade with a communist nation. And I'll go as far as predicting that we'll see Americans kicking in Walmart windows one day.
That'll be about the time we woke up..
Walmart brags on Wall Street about being 95%+ chinese. Have you forgotten these are a communist enemy of ours?
Or that Indonesia represents the largest muslim population?
Have you forgotten that Farley has provided coax rests for American BR shooters for quite some time, before all this market dividing/stealing?
Where do your loyalties lay?
Do you support the Harris copies, and ChargeMaster copies, and H&H copies, and Farley copies?
If so, I can't see why anyone will provide for you down the road.
We should NEVER have opened trade with a communist nation. And I'll go as far as predicting that we'll see Americans kicking in Walmart windows one day.
That'll be about the time we woke up..
Hmmmm....
Your argument above convinces me to sell my Ford F150 that was made in Mexico and my Mercury Grand Marquis that was made in Canada. Instead I guess I'll buy a Toyota Tundra made in San Antonio.
By-the-way, let's stick to the tread subject plus I'll buy the best value for my dollar no matter where it's made.
virg
Your argument above convinces me to sell my Ford F150 that was made in Mexico and my Mercury Grand Marquis that was made in Canada. Instead I guess I'll buy a Toyota Tundra made in San Antonio.
By-the-way, let's stick to the tread subject plus I'll buy the best value for my dollar no matter where it's made.
virg