Ray,
Thanks you for your info, and for choosing the seb rest for your shooting needs.
Okay.....let me try to explain here:
There are several things that could make slop/lash....i.e. on the bearings, or the rest movement, in the seb rests :
1. The conjuction between the inner ball and the housing of the bearing.
Most of the bearings I use still have some slop in them, from the factory. They are also not very uniform in dimensions. It's a pity that I (still) could not find ones that are tight enough, overhere in Indonesia. That is why, instead of just press fitted, I also punch/prick the bearings, right between the brass liner and the outter housing of the bearing (this make the bearing tighter & feel smoother in joystick operation). Even the bearings are press fitted very tight into the coaxial housing (and one into the horizontal "sliding plate"), the bearing still a bit loose...i.e still not enough for the task/purpose.
On my newer production rests, I add "jam screws" at 6 o'clock position - so you can tighten the bearing with this jam screw).
You can re-punch the bearings, if you wish to. It would make the bearing(s) tight again / have no slob.
The bearings I use on my rests are in metric, ID of 8mm, OD of 22mm, 9mm thick, with brass liner bearings. Any brands would be okay, I think...maybe you can even find better ones in your area...
Note: I do not use "steel on steel" bearings, although they can be made tight due to the "split?" housing, but the operation was not as smooth as the brass liner bearings. I have tried "PTFE liner bearings" before, but the result was not good also (still a bit rough in joystick operation).
I got info from a shooter in Australia, that "teflon bearing" is better. I am still looking for it at this moment.
2. The conjuction between the ID of the "rear" bearing with the center shaft.
It they are loose, there will be slop in the joystick operation.
The center shaft is steel epoxy glued into the "front" bearing (the one in the coaxial body), and just "fit" with the "rear" bearing (the one in the sliding plate, inside the coaxial unit) to allow a bit of inline/axis movement.
3. The conjunction between the center shaft and joystick.
I found that several joysticks were bored "glass hour" before.
There are three holes for the jam screws on the joystick head. You would ONLY need to use 2 (two), in 90 degree. I make three holes in purpose people (which could be right handed or lefties) could choose two of them, at their liking location only. It's not made to be used for 3 screws. (I have seen some people used three jam screws on their seb rests, which is not right IMHO, because it would only "contra(?)" the opposite side screw).
Question: which bearing of yours that has slob?...the one in the coaxial housing, or the one inside?
Do yours have small "jam screw" in the bottom of the coaxial unit?
My advise is, first try to re-punch the bearings as described above, to see/understand how it work.
If you then need to replace the bearing, try to find a better one in your area.
Let me know your finding.
Let me know if there is something I can help from here.
seb.
PS: Your right, you may find the joystick movement smoother & has wider MOA (around the corners) by removing the bolts of the retainer oval plate/ring.
