Removing case lube

Z

zz28zz

Guest
What's the concenous in regards to removing case lube after resizing?

So far I've heard, just wipe it off the outside and don't worry abt whats inside, soak cases in dishwashing water and rinse then dry in oven at 200 degs for 2 hrs, wash with IPA and allow to evaporate, or simply throw the cases back into the tumbler (I'm using walnut shell media).

I'm currently using the dishwater method which works good, but takes a while.

I'm applying lube to outside using a lub pad, and lubing inside of neck using a case brush rolled over lube pad (so there shouldn't be very much lube inside).

Also, if neck is trimmed, do you wash cases again to get brass shavings out?

Thx in adv!
 
Lube,Resize,Trim if needed and toss in tumbler for 1-2 hours dump out and done...
Dan
 
zz28zz,
the guy above's method is good,,,,,, mine, I tumble every 2-3 loading,,in between after I prep (FLS, reream primer pocket, chamfer inside case neck) i wash in Issio then stand on case mouth in a plastic tray out of a box of 45 ACP ammo and let set overnight in the laundry room on top of the hot water heater or if during the summer a hour or 2 on top over the outside AC unit. I always wash after triming just to be safe,,,,,,,,,,

the wind is my friend,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,(and I'm waiting on my bailout check)

DD
 
zz28zz said:
What's the concenous in regards to removing case lube after resizing?

So far I've heard, just wipe it off the outside and don't worry abt whats inside, soak cases in dishwashing water and rinse then dry in oven at 200 degs for 2 hrs, wash with IPA and allow to evaporate, or simply throw the cases back into the tumbler (I'm using walnut shell media).

I'm currently using the dishwater method which works good, but takes a while.

I'm applying lube to outside using a lub pad, and lubing inside of neck using a case brush rolled over lube pad (so there shouldn't be very much lube inside).

Also, if neck is trimmed, do you wash cases again to get brass shavings out?

Thx in adv!
Click to expand...

Acetone in a paint can, dump in a tray full give a shake scoop 'em out and let dry. 5 minutes and it's a done deal

D R
 
D R Greysun said:
Acetone in a paint can, dump in a tray full give a shake scoop 'em out and let dry. 5 minutes and it's a done deal

D R
Click to expand...

That stuff will evaporate in less time than that and there would be none left. Besides, even if there is some left on the inside it will burn off when fired.:)

Concho Bill
 
Zz

zz28zz said:
What's the concenous in regards to removing case lube after resizing?

So far I've heard, just wipe it off the outside and don't worry abt whats inside, soak cases in dishwashing water and rinse then dry in oven at 200 degs for 2 hrs, wash with IPA and allow to evaporate, or simply throw the cases back into the tumbler (I'm using walnut shell media).

I'm currently using the dishwater method which works good, but takes a while.

I'm applying lube to outside using a lub pad, and lubing inside of neck using a case brush rolled over lube pad (so there shouldn't be very much lube inside).

Also, if neck is trimmed, do you wash cases again to get brass shavings out?

Thx in adv!
Click to expand...

First, I don't believe there is a consensus. Second, since you’re on Benchrest Central let me say that I know of no one in Benchrest with a capital B that places their brass in any kind of liquid. Dishwater or otherwise. I know of no one in Benchrest with a capital B who subjects their brass to any kind of media. Walnut shells or otherwise. When finished neck trimming, which includes deburring and chamfering the end of the neck, I place each piece in a K&M Case Holder and then stuff the neck end into 0000 steel wool to smooth up the edges. While still on my drill I then place a Q-tip inside the neck to clean out any residue or minute particles of brass while holding the case pointed down at about a 45 degree angle. It all adheres to the Q-tip. I use very little lube when I full length size that I don't worry about cleaning it off. A little residual lube on the outside of a case won't hurt a thing. When full length sizing, why are you applying lube to the inside of the neck? I suspect your going to say it’s so the expander ball will move in and out freely. Again, I know of no one in Benchrest with a capital B that uses an expander ball. Everyone I know has thrown those things away. No need to turn case prep into a long laborious effort. There’s no fun in that, only work. Keep it simple! :)
 
Art, I think you are mis-informed. I, among others, use both a tumbler at times and solvent wash at others. I use a solvent wash after trimming & rinse case mouth down individually. I think there are a lot of ways to skin this cat; you just have to do whatever procedure you use properly to get the desired result.
 
Joe ...

That's why my very first remark was that I didn't believe there was a consensus. There are as many ways to do this stuff as there are those of us who shoot. And, that's why I emphasized "I." That leaves the opportunity that there are others, such as yourself, who do. By the way, thank you for the knowledge you've passed along via your articles and remarks in 6mmbr.com and BR Central. :)
 
You are welcome, Art. Since I was one of the first to have good success with the 30BR, a number of other shooters would ask about the "How to's" of using that caliber at almost every match. It was getting to be time consuming, so when the 6mmBR.com editor asked if I would do an article, I thought that would be a great opportunity to organize my thoughts a little & put'em all down on paper, so to speak. It was also an opportunity to give something back to the sport, which is something I think all of us should try to do.
I wasn't trying to step on your toes with the previous post, just trying to let you & others know that solvent washes & tumblers can be used beneficially. I do have some reservations about tumbling BR brass with those delicate case mouths, but have had pretty good success doing it. Worst problem with tumbling is right after re-annealing; the case mouths are really prone to damage until those cases are fired a few times.
 
After annealing

Joe Entrekin said:
You are welcome, Art. Since I was one of the first to have good success with the 30BR, a number of other shooters would ask about the "How to's" of using that caliber at almost every match. It was getting to be time consuming, so when the 6mmBR.com editor asked if I would do an article, I thought that would be a great opportunity to organize my thoughts a little & put'em all down on paper, so to speak. It was also an opportunity to give something back to the sport, which is something I think all of us should try to do.
I wasn't trying to step on your toes with the previous post, just trying to let you & others know that solvent washes & tumblers can be used beneficially. I do have some reservations about tumbling BR brass with those delicate case mouths, but have had pretty good success doing it. Worst problem with tumbling is right after re-annealing; the case mouths are really prone to damage until those cases are fired a few times.
Click to expand...

I agree here Joe about after annealing. I do not tumble mine until I have fired them at least once. I am glad you spoke favorably about tumbling and immersing. It seems that some consider brass to be like eggs, they are not. While one must be careful of what abuses one subjects their cases to, cases are quite robust and not the precision units a lot of people think they are. The Brass is, pretty much, a container for the things that matter most, the primer, powdwe and bullet.
 
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If you're talking about water soluble lube like the RCBS pad stuff, back when I used it (& standard dies), I cleaned it off the outside of cases this way:

  • Get an old towel really wet, then wring out the running water.
  • Fold it over once lengthwise onto a waterproof bench
  • Place the cases in a row across the width of the towel, covering maybe tow thirds of the width.
  • Fold the towl over it & rub crosswise to roll the cases back & forward on towel
  • Do the same on a clean dry towel & if necessary, go on with your loading
Done!

Must admit that I didn't lube inside the necks. I spun an old bronze brush covered in quad O steel wool in them to take out the gunk & used one of those Hornady torpedo carbide buttons.
 
Joe ...

I didn't take your comments as a step on the toe, only that there are plenty of options open to all of us. In that light, here is another option our thread initiator might be interested in, that comes to us from our friends at 6mmbr.com. UltraSonic Cartridge Case Cleaning: http://www.6mmbr.com/ultrasonic.html. :)
 
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The ultrasonic cleaning interests me, too. As I understand it, a fair investment is required for the equipment. I'll check out your link for more info. Thanks
 
Joe Entrekin said:
The ultrasonic cleaning interests me, too. As I understand it, a fair investment is required for the equipment. I'll check out your link for more info. Thanks
Click to expand...

I tried one of the Harbor Freight models, el cheapo, and following the 6BR forum with different agents it works. The HF model requires several cycles, does not run long enough per cycle, but it cleans the case like new, super job.
Did I miss something in the original question of removing case lube, but is he using lube every time he resizes? I only use lube when doing some serious forming. I use Wilson, Redding and Harrel dies and rarely use lube..anyway I have both RCBS and Imperial and like the RCBS much better. Not only does it do a better job imho but it washes off with water..
 
How in d woild

Waylan Kisor said:
I tried one of the Harbor Freight models, el cheapo, and following the 6BR forum with different agents it works. The HF model requires several cycles, does not run long enough per cycle, but it cleans the case like new, super job.
Did I miss something in the original question of removing case lube, but is he using lube every time he resizes? I only use lube when doing some serious forming. I use Wilson, Redding and Harrel dies and rarely use lube..anyway I have both RCBS and Imperial and like the RCBS much better. Not only does it do a better job imho but it washes off with water..
Click to expand...



Do you keep your cases from sticking in your dies? I find that If I don't lube every time my dies will pick up brass and cause striations on the cases. The brass deposited on the die will grow with every case cycled through it. What is your secret?
 
removing case lube

some of us start a match with new brass, which is good for at least 20 firings in a ppc. and sometimes more, using 29 1/2 gr. of VV.
I do this...
From new, fire three times neck sizing only. brush out the necks, clean the pr pocket, 99% alcohol on the outside of the necks, and load again. When I begin fl resizing, I use 99% alcohol on a small cloth to remove ALL lube from the case, brush out the necks, clean the primer pockets out with the tool made for that. Shiny on the inside means nothing to a BR shooter, at least none that I ever saw or know. One trip to the SS will convince you. Just observe...
 
Thx for all the replies guys!

From what I'm gathering, there is no universally accepted method.

I am using water based RCBS lube that came with my Rock Chucker kit. Guess I should have mentioned that.

I like the q-tip method for cleaning out the case after trimming/chamfering,de-burring steps.
I'm currently using a Lynman case trimmer that allows case to be spun with a drill, so it would be really quick and easy to use a q-tip afterwards.

I do, very lightly, lube the inside of necks for the benefit of the expander ball.
If one does not use an expander ball during resizing process, how do you get the neck opened up to accept the bullet?

I've heard lube inside can interfere with the powder burning, hence why I wanted to wash out the inside. I don't know how much it would take to have a negative effect on the charge.

I'd also like to know how to resize without lube. That would really speed-up the process.:)
 
removing case lube

can't. You must lube or ruin your die and cases. Check the "Centerfire" forums. No need to ask any questions really. It will all be there in one form or another. You will be reading from some of the worlds best BR shooters
 
Pete

my normal procedure if to chuck the case in one of the Sinlair driver/case holders and polish the outside of the case with MAAS, makesem look real purdy, then run a bronze brush in the neck, next to decap and clean the primer pocket. I use Wilson on my 22 and 6 ppc's and Redding bushing die on the 22 and 6 BR's. PPC's tight neck, BR's standard neck. I use a Sinclair expander body to expand the necks. I keep the expander mandrels polished and occassionally use some Imperial black dust, looks like moly to me, as a lube. I keep inside of my dies polished, both body and neck bushings and if I do see striations, polish again. Evidently the outside case polishing prevents the brass from gaulding the dies a I see very little of it. The last Redding, for the BR's was pretty rough, ie left rings around the case body, I talked to the folks at Redding and they told me to run some emery cloth in the die to clean it up, that in leiu of returning the die to them to prevent shipping charges, and I followed their advice and cleaned it up, works like a charm now...
Like I said no case lube. BTW all my brass is Lapua.
 
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