How do I remove the factory barrel from a Remington 700?

P

piniongear

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I have several Remington 700 rifles.
I also own a barrel vise.
My question is...... removing the barrel from the receiver. (or vise/versa)

I clamp the barrel in the vise which is bolted down to a steel work bench.
How do I turn the receiver off without doing any damage to it?
This would be a factory installation and I assume it requires 100 ft lbs of torque to replace the barrel back in the receiver?

Is there a special tool for this?
I see Sinclair sells a 'receiver wrench for a Rem 700' but states it is not for factory installed barrels.
Thanks for any comment on the subject.
pg
 
PG,
I use a action wrench I bought from Brownells. Just put it around the receiver ring, tighten screws, hit it with the heel of your hand. If the barrel is really tight hit the handle with a dead blow hammer. Make sure you put a spare 1/4-28 screw in the bottom of the wrench head to keep it from slipping on the receiver.
Boe
 
Kelblys sells a excellent rear entry wrench for all Remingtons. Since it applys force only to the front of the reciever, (where the luggs are), there is little danger in twisting the action if used properly.

Brownells sells a big wrench that clamps around the front ring of the action, in conjunction with a screw being tightened into the forward action screw hole. (1/4 28tpi). It has a hefty handle to be used in conjunction with a big hammer. A four pound sledge works great. I have never had an action with a barrel so tight that this wrench would not break it loose. It also has the added feature of a cut out that locates the recoil lug in relation to that front action screw.

The big key is to secure the barrel in the vice sufficiently. I made aluminum inserts for my big Brownell vise where I machined the ID to match the countour of the barrel up by the chamber. I wipe the barrel with a good de-greaser, wrap a piece of tablet paper around it, and secure it in the vice. The paper is for added friction..........jackie
 
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Thank you both Jackie and Boe!
I will have a look at both wrenches and decide which to get.
I probably need to take a close look at the aluminum inserts for the barrel vise before using it too.
I thought the inserts should be tapered the same degree as the barrel, so thanks for confirming that Jackie.
And I will use paper around the barrel as well..... for friction.
Thanks again guys.
pg
 
jackie schmidt said:
Kelblys sells a excellent rear entry wrench for all Remingtons. Since it applys force only to the front of the reciever, (where the luggs are), there is little danger in twisting the action if used properly.

Brownells sells a big wrench that clamps around the front ring of the action, in conjunction with a screw being tightened into the forward action screw hole. (1/4 28tpi). It has a hefty handle to be used in conjunction with a big hammer. A four pound sledge works great. I have never had an action with a barrel so tight that this wrench would not break it loose. It also has the added feature of a cut out that locates the recoil lug in relation to that front action screw.

The big key is to secure the barrel in the vice sufficiently. I made aluminum inserts for my big Brownell vise where I machined the ID to match the countour of the barrel up by the chamber. I wipe the barrel with a good de-greaser, wrap a piece of tablet paper around it, and secure it in the vice. The paper is for added friction..........jackie
Click to expand...

This is exactly how I remove them also, with the latter action wrench.

Take the bolt out and warm up the chamber with a propane torch to about 300F and then you don't need to flog it.

Ben
 
Ben,
Doesn't the torch affect the bluing?
I am leaning towards the Brownells wrench but am not sure if this wrench could damage the blueing.
I have both Remington 700 stainless and blued receivers/barrels to deal with.
Thanks.
pg
 
You put the torch in the chamber,not on the outside of the action and just warm it up, it doesn't bother the bluing.
 
Bnhpr said:
You put the torch in the chamber,not on the outside of the action and just warm it up, it doesn't bother the bluing.
Click to expand...

Ben,

Maybe I'm missing something but that seems just backwards. I'd think doing that would expand the barrel more than the receiver and make it tighter. I've used a propane torch on blued receivers enough to weaken LockTite and loosen solder with no problems.

Maybe if you heat it slowely to hold down the delta T between barrel and receiver ring there wouldn't be enough differential expansion to cause an issue.

Fitch
 
What I suspect is the flame is also striking the action, from the inside, and It is heating up just as fast as the barrel, especially, with less meat.
I've tried a few different ways, and this works the best for me. Heating the outside of the action up isn't really an option, since my action wrench is clamped on it, and the bbl is in the vise.
Just warm it up till you smell the loctite bubbling, and a yank on the wrench and they spin right off.
 
Bnhpr said:
What I suspect is the flame is also striking the action, from the inside, and It is heating up just as fast as the barrel, especially, with less meat.
I've tried a few different ways, and this works the best for me. Heating the outside of the action up isn't really an option, since my action wrench is clamped on it, and the bbl is in the vise.
Just warm it up till you smell the loctite bubbling, and a yank on the wrench and they spin right off.
Click to expand...

Sounds plausible and I like the "spin right off" part! I'll try it your way next time.

Thanks
Fitch
 
The torch method reduces the breaking torque by 50-75% as a guess. I got the tip from Butch.

Previously I was 50% on damaging barrels (some with an aluminum pipe wrench backup!)

Now, rarely do I put a scratch in the barrel.

Ben
 
Bnhpr said:
The torch method reduces the breaking torque by 50-75% as a guess. I got the tip from Butch.

Previously I was 50% on damaging barrels (some with an aluminum pipe wrench backup!)

Now, rarely do I put a scratch in the barrel.

Ben
Click to expand...

Good data. Thanks

Fitch
 
Removing Factory Barrel from Remington 700

I have removed thousands of factory barrels from Remingtons.

I own several store bought action wrenches and made several more.

For removing a factory barrel for the first time I highly recomend the Brownell's wrap around action wrench. Properly fitted it will not harm the action and will remove the action from the barrel in 99% of the cases.

I would not reccomend any rear entry action wrench to remove a factory barrel for the first time.

It is hard to beat the combination Brownells Action wrench and Barrel Vice. Yes, they are costly but you get what you pay for.

Nat Lambeth
 
Try a Surgeon inside wrench. It fits right up into the lugs; very compact. You can easily heat the receiver ring, insert the wrench, and unscrew the barrel easily. I quit using the outside wrench after discovering the Surgeon wrench. Brownells sells them. Perhaps Midway does too.
 
Here is what I use,

Actionwrench002.jpg
barrelvise002subfolder.jpg
 
I have removed many 700 barrels. Some are tight and 'Loctited' in place. Some are not. Rather than having to use extreme force I give it a try and if it doesn't break loose on the first effort, I will heat the action a bit with a propane torch, not hot enough to melt soft solder but hot enough to loosen the grip of the sealant. Then it usually pops loose with hard torque. I have used both an external wrench and internal wrench. I never have damaged an action with either method. I have used only the internal wrench the last 5 years or so.
 
Thanks Dennis.
After reading all of the posts, and I appreciate every one of them, I think I may try using an internal wrench.
If that does not work for me then I go to an external.
Thanks again to all.
Perry
 
jackie schmidt said:
Kelblys sells a excellent rear entry wrench for all Remingtons. Since it applys force only to the front of the reciever, (where the luggs are), there is little danger in twisting the action if used properly.

jackie
Click to expand...

Jackie,
Is this Kelby's wrench good for Rem. clones as well, i.e. Borden?
 
It works on all of their Customs, as well as Stiller's, which share bolt dimensions with a Remington. (or close enough).

If Jim's has that dimension in the lug area, then yes.

It will not work with Bat's and Farleys...........jackie
 
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