How did I get there (my story)

That's a very interesting question.
I'll say 322 is a miracle speed to be found, and 330 is a blessing for indoors, if they match the rifle, of course.

That said, we can use both outdoors.
What I have found is a bigger drift for faster ammo vs slower ones.
This is against common sense, as we might think as the faster ammo will reach the target quicker, the wind will have less time to drift it. Well, it's not related to time lapse to target. In fact, the drift is related to air friction (resistance) compounded with direction drift. The faster bullet, as we approach sound speed, exponentially increase the resistance and front turbulence, which contributes to a bigger direction drift.
That's why, as an exemple, if you have brought two lots with the same group size, a slower and a faster, the slower, outdoors, will show an increase group size due to wind, but smaller than the faster one. To put it in numbers, saying a 322m/s has a test of 12mm, and in a 15Km/h wind increases to 15mm, but a 330m/s with a test of 12mm will increase outdoors (same wind) to 17mm.
This is not much if put in perspective, but your scores will be lower, mainly on Xs count, and, sometimes the faster ammo shows a "flyer" to a 9 or even to an 8. These are not flyers, just a sudden larger drift.

Could be an interesting discussion too, how can we determine a flyer vs a higher "normal" drift.

This is my experience and notes I took from my shooting. Yes, I'm constantly taking notes, mostly mentally, but I do it.

The second part of your question is a rather pertinent point.
How can we leverage ours scores with this knowledge.
Several ways.

1st approach is how much you shoot indoors vs outdoors. I do 99% outdoors, so I always look for slower ammo.
But if you end up at the testing with similar consistent groups with a 322m/s and with a 330m/s ammo. Pick booth.
You'll never know how's the wind will be.

Normally, at a match, and if I have 2 great ammo, I'll choose the one to be used during warmup and sighters shots. But I don't do it much as I rather prefer to stay on the safe side using the slower. Why? Couple of reasons. It's one less thing to think about, like, hmm... the wind is slower now, let's pick the faster ammo, ups, now it blows stronger, where's the slower box... you know what I mean? Leave your head clear about everything you can control, and use it just to wind read and POA.
So, I don't leverage.

Of course, if you know well yourself and your rifle, you could start with a faster in calm conditions, changing to a slower if conditions get worse.
What I did found along the years is that, during the 20min you have to shoot a card, seldom a condition varies so drastically that it will need(?) an ammo change.

But then, why I said pick both lots? Because it's a good procedure to practice with faster, and harder, ammo. That's the 2nd approach.
 
Pedro, I had one more question for today. I tested my rifle at the Lapua test center in January, when I was last there. They have a Arnold one piece rest with a roller top that customers can use, which is what I shoot during matches. I tested my rifle in two modes of recoil; fully locked down, so there was no recoil at all, and free recoil, with a light bungee to prevent the rifle from sliding backward off the rest. One ten shot group in each mode. The locked down test produced a much larger group size than the free-recoil (with a bungee). First, is there a way to optimize recoil modes to enhance the accuracy of the rifle/rest? Second, what has your experience been relative to recoil modes?

Thanks,

Larry
 
Larry, you should always favour testing closer to how you use the rifle.
In this case with a free recoil on a one piece rest.

Unfortunately, I don't have experience with such a rest, so can't give you any advice on how to control recoil. Maybe TKH could jump to help here.

The locked down test is harder on gear, and ammo choose that way can produce outstanding results. Many will argue not, but a locked down will always produce a bigger group size, so for a given size on a lock down, expect a smaller one on a free recoil jig.

My best ammo lots were always found with lock down system. Even if I test them afterwards with a small free recoil. Here in Europe, the Germany test center, doesn't have such a rest, but the vice could be unlocked giving free recoil on CNC rails.

That said I tend to prefer a small free recoil controlled by a spring system. Don't know if such a fixture is available in the US.

But your question brings to the table a matter often discussed by non test centres believers. They could find ammo producing outstanding groups easier than going to test. Just because the test center is harder on ammo.

I don't test with 10 shot groups. I do it with 3x30 shots groups. Understandable my test produce more consistent results and ammo.

I preach that one of best investments you can do in BR, besides practicing, is center testing. You'll learn a lot about your rifle...
 
This is the rifle everyone talks about...

Tony provided me a very nice Rotex stock (in red) including a personalised end plate.

Unfortunately the Rotex is too heavy for LV weight, so I borrow the "centrada" stock, a KSS straight-line in Ferrari Modena yellow.

There's also one of my cases to show my attention to detail.
 

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This is the rifle everyone talks about...

Tony provided me a very nice Rotex stock (in red) including a personalised end plate.

Unfortunately the Rotex is too heavy for LV weight, so I borrow the "centrada" stock, a KSS straight-line in Ferrari Modena yellow.

There's also one of my cases to show my attention to detail.
Pedro, that is one beautiful rifle! The Ferrari Modena Yellow color is fantastic! Your case does say a lot about how you approach these matches. Is that a Sightron 45X Competition scope? Did you not like the NF scope I see on the other rifle in your case?

Thanks for sharing!
 
The other rifle, the "centrada", is a Turbo by Calfee made for Tony Harper. The former TD. Later I bought it from Tony, but needed to fit a new barrel on it. That's a Shilen ratchet "5 match grade, fitted by Martino of GAC.
Both rifles are matched in terms of score ability. I pick one or the other depending on my feel on potential performance.
So, yes, I'm very lucky to have these two with me.

Yes, it's a Sightron 45x competition. I use either a NF or the Sightron depending of the available weight, being the NF the heavier one.
I feel the NF has the edge in optical and click authority terms, but the Sightron is also very, very nice, at half the price and available!
I tried March ones, but for some reason they don't suit me well.
 
This is the rifle everyone talks about...

Tony provided me a very nice Rotex stock (in red) including a personalised end plate.

Unfortunately the Rotex is too heavy for LV weight, so I borrow the "centrada" stock, a KSS straight-line in Ferrari Modena yellow.

There's also one of my cases to show my attention to detail.
Pedro, I noticed you use a front mount scope base on one rifle, and the more traditional bridge mount on the second rifle. Why do you use two different setups? Just curious...

Also, who makes the case you are using? That is a great setup.

Thanks,

Larry
 
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Larry, I use a front scope mount on all my rifles but sporters.
The pics with a traditional mount come from Tony when he was still preparing the rifle.

The case is a Peli Air 1745. Interior foam (Sealey SF30R) cut by me.
 
Pedro, I read your post on Calfee's site about tuning. I had a question. In step 2, you say to turn the tuner 1 turn out for vertical spread, and 1 turn in for horizontal spread. Can you clarify, do you mean 1 full revolution of the tuner when you said "1 turn" or did you mean 1 click?

Thanks,

Larry
 
Pedro, I read your post on Calfee's site about tuning. I had a question. In step 2, you say to turn the tuner 1 turn out for vertical spread, and 1 turn in for horizontal spread. Can you clarify, do you mean 1 full revolution of the tuner when you said "1 turn" or did you mean 1 click?

Thanks,

Larry
Larry, in fact it could be more clear.
Sometimes we are so used to the words, that we don't realise others could not fully understand what we mean.
Thank for flagging out.

One turn means, one full revolution turn. I tend to use the zero as a starting point, but doesn't matter, it's personal preference.
At firsts tuning steps, one turn is quick, reliable and take out of equation a not so round outer weight.
Fractions of a turn (clicks) are just for final tuning steps, where the rifle is very close to its set point.
 
Pedro thanks for sharing everything you have shared, it is very enlightening and confirming in many ways also.
Where can the RS tuners be purchased from? Thanks
 
Pedro, a cleaning question for you. Can you describe how much cleaning solution (RFB and/or C4) you put on the patches? A few drops in the center with a needle dropper bottle, a big drop from a larger dropper bottle, etc? I find sometimes that I am putting too much solution on the patch and the solution falls under the loading ramp. I want to be sure to clean the barrel properly, but need some advice on how much solution to put on the patches.

Thanks very much!
 
Interesting point...
In fact, too much liquid brings more trouble than benefits...

I use the regular 4oz. bottle and put 2~3 drops on a patch.
Rimfire blend immediately soaks the patch, however, being more oily, carbon remover tend to be more hard on it. Just rub the bottle nozzle against the patch, it helps a lot.
 
Pedro, hope you are doing well!

I will be headed to the Lapua Test Center in Ohio in a couple of weeks to test. I had a question about some information you shared about what you look for in test data. When selecting a lot for purchase, based on the test data:
1) Pick the most consistent lot relative to group size (the two 10-shot groups should be relatively close in group size).
2) Pick the lot with the least vertical spread.
3) Pick the lot with a minimal amount of horizontal spread.
4) Pick the lot with the slowest speed which meets the above critieria.
 
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My question to you is, what value do you look for in the vertical spread data generated when testing? I have reviewed my prior reports for testing and see some values ranging from ~5mm up to ~15mm range. If I find a lot with vertical spread of about 10mm, should I assume that I might be able to adjust my tune to help reduce that, or should I move on to the next best lot?

Can you share some thoughts on these details?

Thanks!

Larry
 
Larry, it depends how well is your rifle tuned.
I do believe yours are all at the spot, so, not much can be achieved regarding a specific group height.
That's why I say fine tune the rifle and then look for the smallest height possible.
When all is et, group height is more related to velocity ammo spread.

From my records, my chosen lots have an aggregate dimension between 11mm (smallest) to 15.60mm (largest), being the majority ones around 12.50mm.
That said my highest height value is 8.17mm corresponding to that 15.60mm group. So, my max value is 8.20mm

Again, from my records, and hundreds of ammo tests (all values from Meyton Elektronik), a 10.00mm height spread gives around 16.00mm aggregate group size, or larger.
 
All of my good lots have had aggregate spreads in the 12mm range. Never had one of those super lots even 10mm or 11mm. I don't know what the vertical component of those lots were but the results on targets were always good.
 
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