Help cut and thread a new bbl plz

Done for tonite...... about 2 hrs to get .0004 -all i wanted to do was cut the crown about noon today... 12 hrs later i'm set up, ready to cut, lol.

I'm installing my .0005 indicator and i had it on the side of the inside, sometime i talk to myself, i caught myself "Boy Jerry ain't gonna like this". I had to stop an re-rig my indicator, lol.

All i ask is the next newbie that pops on here with a new lathe, let me tell him to "pop on the 4jaw" !!!!!!! joe :D:):D:D:):):)

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jGEE said:
Done for tonite...... about 2 hrs to get .0004 -all i wanted to do was cut the crown about noon today... 12 hrs later i'm set up, ready to cut, lol.
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Joe, remember, gunsmithing is flat-rate pricing. They get paid by the job, not by the hour!
12 hours to cut a crown? I hope you have a small family and grow your own food.
 
BTW, you still have too much overhang of the workpiece from the chuck jaws. You better save those pennies too!!

When indicating the bore for crowning, indicate in the grooves not the lands. If you are doing a 5-groove or 6-groove barrel, rough it in by inserting a close fitting reamer pilot bushing. Then indicate the bore of the bushing.

Always indicate the muzzle bore at or very near the exit point. The last thing the bullet is guided by is not 1/2" or 1" into the barrel but at the actual exit point. That is where the propellant gas and the bullet base part company.
 
well i'm hooking up the traces, getting ready to plow again!

Mr Jerry.... i'm learning to like Grape Nuts and water, lol.

I was just using 1 indicator -then i switched to .0005. I got totally lost so i rigged up the Starrett on the outside. Now i'm using both indicators.

I read you guys talking the bore will be off center with the outside. This morning thinking about it if the bore is off center no way this would work, thats why you indicate off the inside. I see now once your close you have to use the inside indicator. I'm thinking it worked out this time because the bore was dead center with the outside.

That's pretty damn good drilling on Lilja's part!! joe :)
 
Lathe ninja joe

First job with the 4jaw chuck. I can get a bbl squared up under a week now. 12 hrs for the for the crown. Only 6 hrs re-threading and re-chambering including a nap!! I cut my chicken gap in half, lol!!

yea i know i got about 1/2" stuck out the chuck too far, lol
i'm done for a few days, i gotta "burn some lead"! :D:D:D:) joe

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jGEE said:
yea i know i got about 1/2" stuck out the chuck too far, lol
i'm done for a few days, i gotta "burn some lead"! :D:D:D:) joe
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joe a few days ago you couldn't even spell marchinnest, now you are one!!

Talk about Degrees On Line...


(Actuallly your overhang is about right)


(what are the dots for? paint-by-the-numbers? or chuck-by-the-numbers!)
 
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JerrySharrett said:
(what are the dots for? paint-by-the-numbers? or chuck-by-the-numbers!)
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Mr Jerry i appreciate your help a lot! I've had my lathe a month 1/2 now and thanks to you and the rest who have helped i've learned a lot. Didn't even know what a "spyder" was! Never had cut threads!

I have an old 9" south bend -i made a few non precise bushing and crap with. The ways were wore out so bad i took epoxie and filled 'em up back flush, lol!

Without your help it would have taken a year or 2 to learn what i know now. You guys have give me one hell of a "jump start"! thanks!!!!

Your correct, that is "chuck by numbers", lol. I painted red dots on 1 & 3 and white dots on 2 & 4. I got "lost" so many times the 4jaw almost came off. No more getting lost with the "chuck by numbers". When i was painting 'em on i was thinking Mr Jerry is gonna call me a "PUSSY" -i hate to whore up my lathe, but hey i was outta brain cells -had to do something, lol.

thanks everyone: joe :)
 
Joe if you are a rimfire shooter you need to come to East Tennessee. We have several of the top rimfire shooters in the country.
Jim Pepper, Allen Stigall, Truman Webber, Cliff Keesee, Wally Putnam and that is just for starters and before the Virginia and North Carolina Mafias show up.
These guys just finished a beautiful 60 bench 50/50 range. They're ready to boogie.
 
Update

I pillar bedded my Kimber 82G last nite. Made a couple of pillars out ss. No big deal to you guys but i needed to drill off center for the rear pillar. I figured use the 4jaw and drop a pair of jaws. IT WORKED.. i was all grins

Any way this is my first official 82G target @ 50 yards, 2 -5 shot groups,. .225 & .240. I figure this is a starting point, a place to improve from. I downloaded the PSL target and at actual size it don't get all the bulls.

Lilja bbl i got from Mr Friedrich -chambered on my new lathe
I broke out a box of eley tenex -
Home made rest with sand bag up front (next thing to upgrade)
weaver 36x
Trigger pull was 1# 12oz, next project the factory trigger is adjustable... I had the pull to one pound before, gonna try for about 6 oz.

It was "circle the wagon" shoot today, i couldn't hold steady so just before the dot crossed center i pulled... i had to lead the bull almost like shooting ducks, lol.

I have learned a lot, thanks everyone!

 
JGEE,
Now you need to put you a tuner on that rifle, and see how good it can really shoot. You done good! It'll shoot better, the more you shoot it.
 
Joe, I envy you, keep up the good work. You can't get the factory 82G trigger down below about 15oz, there is a guy from Missouri, Nemohunter, he hangs around here, does 82G triggers, gets it down to 2oz. He did mine, great job and he's a good guy. Is it possible to post a close-up pic of your rear pillar? I wanted to do mine but couldn't figure out how. Thanks, Douglas
 
Douglas said:
Joe, I envy you, keep up the good work. You can't get the factory 82G trigger down below about 15oz, there is a guy from Missouri, Nemohunter, he hangs around here, does 82G triggers, gets it down to 2oz. He did mine, great job and he's a good guy. Is it possible to post a close-up pic of your rear pillar? I wanted to do mine but couldn't figure out how. Thanks, Douglas
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Nemo has a nice sticky at RFC on how to do the trigger on the 82G. I ordered a 1/8 HiRoc drill bit just for the trigger mod!

Now my "work" ain't the prettiest - the Kimber is my "mule" gun. The only thing i want pretty is the target, lol.

The Kimber stock is plenty massive so i used as large a pillars i could. The rear pillar install hole was drilled so it just barley broke into the trigger cavity. Worked out nice i could apply epoxie all the way down the pillar from the inside.

I didn't use the front trigger guard screw- didn't need it and didn't want any "stress".

The front screw goes into a very nice heavy duty recoil lug. factory bedding allows the front lug/mount to float. After the pillar bedding the front lug is now a "press fit" so to speak.
Maybe this ain't good for centerfire but for rimfire i wanted to lock the action to the stock with the front lug.

I also "raised" the pillars so the action is raised out of the stock about 1/16". Again this is rimfire- for the first go around i did not bed the action. The action/bbl only touches the stock in 2 points -front and rear pillar, everything else is free floated. I don't think i will have any problems -the kimber stock is massive.

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Joe, if you don't watch out, you'll end up being a gunsmith and then you will have guys asking you the questions. Thanks, Douglas
 
Trigger mod

Tonite i played around with the trigger pull weight. When i got to 1 pound- the trigger was a little unstable. I noticed once set a pound if i picked up on the back of the bolt, it fired.

The bolt does has some "slop".. that's the way it came new. I don't have the skills to bush my receiver... just yet, lol. I know this is probably gonna get me an azz chewing but since this is my "test mule" i had to try something. I drilled and tapped the action with a 8x32x 3/8 allen and slowly set it just on top of the bolt and removed the slack. Now the bolt was firm but still didn't like getting under about a pound. Maybe removing the bolt slop might add to the accuracy, maybe...

Phase 2 was to do the Nemohunter Modification. I redrilled the trigger pivot point. It is an easy mod but does take a carbide 1/8" drill bit to drill the hardened trigger.

It does make a difference the type of lube at the sear and trigger contact points. With some white lube TW25b we were at 10 to 11 oz. Instead of backing out on the set screw i added in some Moly paste to the contacts points, didn't touch anything and after several dry fires it settled at 6.3 oz, NICE!!

I rapped on the back of the stock pretty good several times and the trigger held just fine. If she stays at 6 oz thats gonna be good enough for me for a while! Mr nemohunter thanks for sharing your knowdledge! thanks everyone joe :)

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I don't remember the exact details, but did you swap out the overtravel screw and the trigger pull screw? In other words, trade places, I think that's how he gets it down to 2oz. Thanks, Douglas
 
4-08-09 update

Disclaimer: for anyone that stumbles across my Kimber thread this is how i do stuff, I don't know if it is correct or not but so far it is working for me -and a lot of fun!!

HERE IS AN UPDATE TO MY KIMBER PROJECT:
Well i ain't happy unless i'm threadin, cuttin, chamberin, or shootin, or makin mistakes, lol.

I been shootin my Shilen i got from Mr Fred J. With SK Match everything works perfect. With the Eley i get a few misfires and lite firing pin strikes. There is just enough difference in rim thickness -tollerance stack gets me. I got to looking and the firing pin doesn't protrude very far out of the bolt.

I could cut the shoulder back a few thou or go for some firing pin mods. Firing pin mods seemed more fun!!

After looking things over all it took was a little grinding. while i was in there is put a shim (small flat head screw fit nice) behind the spring.

I removed .018 from this face, this face limits pin protrusion. I might be out a couple thou too far but as long as i don't dry fire i should be ok.

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Here is the finished pin, now past the bolt face just a few thou..

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This is the spring shim i used, probably didn't do much but i don't think it hurt anything.

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While i was 'moddin the pin a distinguished member here at BC (a "good" friend Of Mr Lynn's who shall remain anonymous) sent me a couple of factory Shul take off bbls to test with. Last nite i cut, threaded and chambered the Shul to fit my Kimber 82G. I used my modded bolt and the 'new' Schul bbl and fired away this morning. To keep the targets actual size i don't get all the bulls, but enough for practice.

Very nice 55 degree morning with little wind. Using SK match @ 50 yards i'm happy so far with my practice work and 'spearminting. so far it's WOT for me, wide open throttle, lol! Thanks for the bbls Lynn's friend!

 
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