Help cut and thread a new bbl plz

[jGEE]

They can if the dimensions match on both, (the bolt circle and the pilot on the backing plate). That is why I said you don't want to keep swapping both chucks to the same backing plate it would take a lot of time....unless you are retired.

If the plate will fit the 4-jaw, put it on it and then just don't use the 3-jaw.

If you have some later application for the 3-jaw get another backing plate for it.

Mr. Sharrett i must appoligize, these came with the lathe also, i had stuck them back. The 4 hole one has to be for the 4jaw chuck. I don't know what the other is for.

Looks like i would clean up, deburr the plate and the back of the chuck real nice and bolt on the chuck to the face plate.

The face plate screws onto the spindle, the 3 jaw has the safety locks so the chuck won't unthread when running the lathe in reverse -the 4jaw has threaded holes for the safety retainers.

I'm startin to feel pretty stupid here guys. I just don't want to f*ck something up. i like my lathe and i have screwed up stuff in the past... i'm just "gun-shy" here.

Everything runs pretty damn true just like it is -i didn't want to hear, "hey that was a stupid thing to change face plates and chucks. don't you know they are aligned at the factory with a special red cunt hair guage". or something along those lines, lol.

Mr. Jerry i wouldn't blame you if you 'hung up the phone" on me.... can i just have 1 more question plz??? Since the spindle is threaded, is there much of alignment problems switching chucks back and forth? thanks again, joe

(i hope there is not a "delete stupid member" button somewhere )

I don't havea clue what this one does....

 

[jGEE]

Joe, great thread, I remember doing pretty much all of that stuff at least once and sometimes twice before I figured it out!
A couple small tips, if you get some brass tipped screws for the spider it won't mar the barrel and save you some effort, I also take some 2" masking tape and tape the length of the barrel so it doesn't get scratched running it in and out the headstock. When you set up the 4 jaw chuck set it up so that the jaws on the chuck and the screws on the spider line up, makes adjustments to the barrel easier when they are all in the same plane.
Have fun, be safe, no rings, no long sleeve shirts.

Dennis

Hal those are great tips thanks!

Dennis thanks .... i'm learning, you guys got me on the fast track!!
thanks joe

 

[JerrySharrett]

Looks like i would clean up, deburr the plate and the back of the chuck real nice and bolt on the chuck to the face plate.

The face plate screws onto the spindle, the 3 jaw has the safety locks so the chuck won't unthread when running the lathe in reverse -the 4jaw has threaded holes for the safety retainers.

I'm starting to feel pretty stupid here guys. I just don't want to f*ck something up. i like my lathe and i have screwed up stuff in the past... i'm just "gun-shy" here.


Mr. Jerry i wouldn't blame you if you 'hung up the phone" on me.... can i just have 1 more question plz??? Since the spindle is threaded, is there much of alignment problems switching chucks back and forth? thanks again, joe

(i hope there is not a "delete stupid member" button somewhere )

[I don't havea clue what this one does....

We ain't gonna' hang up on you. Who would we have to kick around???

Seriously, I think you are doing amazingly well. Considering the amount of time you have as a apprentice machinist you are doing better than that!

The item in the bottom photo is a faceplate. They are used 1) to bolt irregular shaped workpieces to for machining, and 2) the slots can also be used to drive a lathe dog (a later subject).

Looking at the screw-on mounting method of the chucks, if the spindle has a surface for the counterbore in the adapters to align to, things will line up closely. My, and thousands, of South Bend, Atlas, etc. lathes use the screw-on mounting. They will repeat, if properly fitted, to about 0.001" or so. Just don't screw them on too tight.

On a screw-on, hand tighten till you feel the threads stop, then back the chuck off about 10-degrees, then bump it in place. To remove, insert the chuck wrench then pop it with a soft tipped hammer. It should pop loose.

Keep the spindle nose threads and chuck threads clean and put a drop or two of machine oil on every 2-3 threads before assembly.

We may graduate you before long. Then you will really have to work (or play).

As to being gun-shy, don't. But, don't for a minute loose your awareness of what is going on with your body parts and the moving machine parts.

This is not an environment for playing grabass or being distracted. Machine tools can chew you up like a rag doll!!

 

[Don]

Mr. Sharrett i must appoligize, these came with the lathe also, i had stuck them back. The 4 hole one has to be for the 4jaw chuck. I don't know what the other is for.

Looks like i would clean up, deburr the plate and the back of the chuck real nice and bolt on the chuck to the face plate.

Yup, that is what you need to do.

Since the spindle is threaded, is there much of alignment problems switching chucks back and forth? thanks again, joe

Shouldnt be if everything is ding free, deburred, clean, and bolted together properly.

4 Jaw back plate, clean it up and bolt it to the 4 Jaw chuck body using 4 attachment bolts.

Univeral mounting plate, used for mounting odd and miscellanous items........used mine for turning brake disks and drums, and flywheels until I found out they were berrilium surfaced and highly carcinogenic...........Don

 

[JerrySharrett]

[Univeral mounting plate, used for mounting odd and miscellanous items........used mine for turning brake disks and drums, and flywheels until I found out they were berrilium surfaced and highly carcinogenic...........Don

Don, I feel the bryllicosis thing is much over stated. We machined and ground beryllium copper machine parts for years. Then they told us it would kill us. No one died before or after. Kind of like the mercury and lead things. Our in-ground water runs over elemental lead in this part of the country by the billions of gallons.

There are lead mines about 10 miles from where I live and a creek runs through there.

I'm not recommending being stupid about this environmental stuff but I wouldn't believe a single thing the ALGORE crowd hawks. Global warming, probably. Is man causing it? Hell no!!

 

[Don]

Don, I feel the bryllicosis thing is much over stated. We machined and ground beryllium copper machine parts for years. Then they told us it would kill us. No one died before or after. Kind of like the mercury and lead things. Our in-ground water runs over elemental lead in this part of the country by the billions of gallons./

Hi Jerry,

I dont know what to think anymore.

People around me have been dropping like flys.

Just found out earlier this week from an old aquaintance that he lost 3 family members over the last 6 months to various mysterious health maladies, leaving him last man standing in the family tree.

Various "Cast bullet" members at the local gun club seem to have experienced unusually high numbers of hip and knee replacements to be followed by "left the range" disappearances.

Come on this messageboard and it seems like every new week another BR community member has left the range, and many before their time.

Years ago if you asked me how I would go, I would have said hopefully doing something I had a passion for..............now, I would not be surprised if it something unexpected or unknown to me...................Don

 

[JerrySharrett]

Hi Jerry,

I dont know what to think anymore.

People around me have been dropping like flys.

Don, I've always heard when you are going to more funerals than weddings you are getting older. Well, guess what? I'm going to a wedding Saturday.

It's going to be the warmest day of the year for shooting....and I'm going to a friggin' wedding. Good with the bad or what??

 

[Dennis D.]

Backing plate run out

Joe, before you mount the 4 jaw on the backing plate put the plate on the lathe and check it for runout with your dial indicator. Also, if you haven't been to the Practical Machinist and the Home Shop Machinist web sites give them a look, they'll keep you reading for days.

Dennis

 

[jGEE]

Joe, before you mount the 4 jaw on the backing plate put the plate on the lathe and check it for runout with your dial indicator. Also, if you haven't been to the Practical Machinist and the Home Shop Machinist web sites give them a look, they'll keep you reading for days.

Dennis

Thanks Dennis..... i'm fast learning everything i think of is wrong, lol. you guys are saving my butt , thanks! joe

 

[Douglas]

Joe, I can't express enough my gratitude, your pics are fantastic. Man, if only the "real" gunsmiths were as open and as informative as you. Thanks, Douglas

 

[p17p14enflield]

hi think you doing graet

here the one bit of advice that people always miss
you should just do some play job on the lathe with the 4 jaw !
on my frist day at company training center , we wher just showen the safe runing of a lathe and basics , then told go play and make some thing ,

is easy learning like that

i done want to get a head of you , but please buy a floating reamer holder ,

 

[jGEE]

Joe, I can't express enough my gratitude, your pics are fantastic. Man, if only the "real" gunsmiths were as open and as informative as you. Thanks, Douglas

Thanks Douglas... I don't know if your following the chambering thread but i just posted some i think interesting pics of a chamber i cut open to expose the 'leade". i wanted to know exactly what it was...
the pics are here: http://www.benchrest.com/forums/showthread.php?p=488620#post488620

 

[jGEE]

here the one bit of advice that people always miss
you should just do some play job on the lathe with the 4 jaw !
on my frist day at company training center , we wher just showen the safe runing of a lathe and basics , then told go play and make some thing ,

is easy learning like that

i done want to get a head of you , but please buy a floating reamer holder ,

Mr. enfield thank for the suggestion... I'm just now starting to experiment with chambers... thats gonna be fun!!

now for the 4 jaw chuck............... saga...........

 

[jGEE]

Offical junior "lathe whore" membership plz!!

"WE" got the 4jaw mounted!! Just like you guys said, inserted the key, whacked it a couple of times- she spun right off. I feel like i slew the dragon, lol. can i be a jr. "lathe whore" member now ???

Here is the latest: Just found out i don't have a clue what i'm doing!!! Trying to "0" a bbl with the 4 jaw, ate me alive and spit me out in the trash can... best i got was .004, then .050, then .075, then .020, then back to .004 -then everything repeated.

I think you guys tricked me, do you do all rookies like this, lol!! maybe i need to change the jaws around. With my 3 jaw it was .015 to .002 just slap 'er in and tighten up.

I even tricked the wife to trying it -she' got a good brain for this stuff -most of the time. When i would get close, it was hard to back off just enough, the break away torque cause me to go too far -and i would get lost on top of that. i gave up and came in the house so i could kick the dog, always makes me feel better, don't help 'Bubba any though.

I think i'm going back to the 3 jaw for now, i got "STUFF" to f*ck up, lol. joe

 

[Dennis D.]

Reverse the jaws

Joe, take the jaws out of the 4 jaw and turn them around, more support at the end of the barrel. Then find a big fat single strand of copper wire and put it between the jaws and the barrel. this does two things, no three; it keeps the barrel from being marred, it keeps the barrel from being bent by the chuck and it has a little cush so you can tweek the barrel around a little without putting a killer crush on the jaws. Don't overtighten, hard on the chuck and the barrel. Once you learn to use the 4 jaw you'll seldom use the 3 jaw for one off stuff, you'll be able to set up in about the same time as it takes to change out the chucks.

Have a nice weekend, I'm callin it a day.
Dennis

 

[p17p14enflield]

you could do with a spacing ring

easyer than using packing's betwwen the jaw's turn your self ring 3/8 wide with a internal daimater a few tho bigger than the od of your barrel and wall thickness of approx 1/8 to 1/4

this keeps all the packing together and equal
make it out of aluiminum or soft copper

added <it easyer to start with if you put you dti on your side of the bed then the reading is easyer i find ! >

 

[Don]

Here is the latest: Just found out i don't have a clue what i'm doing!!! Trying to "0" a bbl with the 4 jaw, ate me alive and spit me out in the trash can... best i got was .004, then .050, then .075, then .020, then back to .004 -then everything repeated.

I think you guys tricked me, do you do all rookies like this, lol!! maybe i need to change the jaws around. With my 3 jaw it was .015 to .002 just slap 'er in and tighten up.

No, stick with the 4 jaw and learn the technique, its the only way that you be able to center to within .0001".

Try using 2 chuck keys at the same time, opposed to each other, one tightening, the other loosening, while watching your dial indicator, this will give a smooth ease of adjustment to the independent jaws, with visual verification of movement by the indicator.

 

[JerrySharrett]

i done want to get a head of you , but please buy a floating reamer holder ,

Joe, please DON'T buy a floating reamer holder!! Use a floating pusher.

 

[JerrySharrett]

And turn those chuck jaws around like Don said!

Then, turn the dial indicator vertical (on top instead of in the back).

OK, then work on the jaws at 180 degrees apart in pairs. If top jaw position is high on the dial, tighten it (the barrel will move down some). Then go 180 and loosen that jaw slightly (the barrel will back off some). Keep doing the 180 thing till you get close.

Then go to the other two jaws. Notice that when you get a 180 pair zeroed, you can turn 90 degrees (the other 180 pair) and they will end up at the same zero as the other 180 pair.

Don't try to over tighten a jaw to get a few thousands, loosen the opposite jaw slightly.

Then you are at zero all around your jaw wrench torque should be about 15-20 ft/lbs or so. Not deathly tight but not too loose either.

One last check before you start machining. Check all four jaws for tightness. Your workpiece should be zeroed and all four jaws sufficiently tight.

 

[jGEE]

Ok... i had to take a nap but i'm back up...
I was ready to remove the 4jaw but if you guys ain't givin up on me i'm gonna go out to the barn and have another go with the new instructions, thanks mr Jerry and BR crew. I was trying to adjust all 4 jaws at once a couple of times -talk about "loosing it"!

dang, Don you busted me on the penny, lol joe