Barrel PreTreat For HBN

i was gonna try for the 1000 yd nationals....but its just too far....drove the costs up.
( don't tell any one i'm actually building a BOLT gun for 1000 yd competition.....it will ruin my ar reputation)

mike in co
Mike, if you should hear more about the hbn and pressure....please let me know
 
Just curious: I bought some Hex from a friend a couple of years ago. I then bought a small Lyman bowl and the next time I stopped by Cabela's I looked for steel shot but did not find any. I did find some copper plated BB's so bought a large container of them and placed them in my new bowl. I subsequently read some place not to use copper plated shot. Can somene tell me why the copper shot can not be used please? Thanks, Pete
 
I started out using copper BBs as a medium & ended up with copper coming off onto the projectiles, the bowl & who knows wherever else - plus the application didn't seem all that well applied. Subsequently, the bowl seemed to pick up some rust powder, so I suspect that the unhardened BBs were chopping themselves about. I ended up biting the bullet :)cool:) & buying a Lyman coating kit (2 dinky tumbler bowls, some cleaning media & their ceramic application media).

It's worked really well for me as far as cleaning is concerned, but I'm unconvinced that it gives the same friction reduction that moly does. It seems to run at higher velocities for the same load, albeit in different barrels, though they were twins, the last serial digit only 1 apart.
 
a little east and north................north minniesoda.
was gonna do a working vacation..take some brass, watch some holes appear on paper.
but the distance made it an extra day or two...
mike in co
 
where did you get the white bottles ???
thanks
mike in co

Great thread! I thought you'd like to see how we do it. I'm copying this from my own forum. (Sumplace else:D)

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I took a piece of 1/2" thick Sintra (expanded PVC), routed a channel on the back to fit exactly over the rim of a tumbler, cut two holes the exact size of the lower 1/3rd of two plastic jars and cut a center hole for the shaft and wing-nut. (no comments, Will)
Slide the jars in till they're tight, add the .177 steel balls and impact coat for 3 hours. You can even leave the media in the bowl if you want to clean brass at the same time with this setup.
This setup keeps the center of gravity low and the shaking is much harder and sharper without the cushion of small jars floating in the media.

Tumbler002.jpg


Tumbler003.jpg


Tumbler001.jpg


MolyB.jpg


MolyD.jpg


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After towel rolling.

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We're not, but if you want to send yours to me I'll coat them for you Matt. You'll have to do your barrel.
(From Dad's info)


Clean the bore/chamber/throat with Wipe Out or a like non-ammonia based copper remover. Use a carbon remover specific like Montana Extreme or a like carbon remover in the chamber and throat.

If you have one, inspect the bore for complete copper removal with a bore scope.

Borescope1.jpg


If not, be safe and use the Wipe Out with a nylon bristle brush, working up a heavy foam and let stand for a few hours.

Dry clean completley with patches or clean swabs.
Take a new .30 caliber cotton swab, or take your old ones and run them through the laundry or dishwasher. Dry completely.

Short switch back to square one:
You'll get your negative 5 micron hBN in a container with a plastic tape seal around the outside. Open it with extreme care and only long enough to fill a small, sealable pill bottle 1/3rd full. Re-seal the container immediately. Re-apply the exterior tape seal fully and tightly. Store at room temps in a secure place. Spill that container in a room in the house and your wife will be using a bat on you for weeks to come.
(No, I didn't, and my wife uses Darning Eggs instead of bats)

Screw the swab to the end of a cleaning rod just long enough to run the bore, open the hBN pill bottle, carefully roll the swab in the hBN, (close the hBN bottle immediately) insert into the bore from the breech end if possible. If your rifle won't acommodate that, run it from the muzzle end. Go all the way through and then work it gently back and forth while slowly withdrawing the swab.
Once its out, leave it alone. The first few impact coated projectiles fired through the bore will do the ceramic coating for you, and that's it. You've done it. From that point on fire only impact coated projectiles through that rifle. Cleaning is done with dry patches, no chemicals at all.
For the chamber/throat area, use the right sized swab to fit into each and use Montana Extreme or a like carbon remover. Don't run any cleaning solvents down the bore.
You can also do the alcohol/hBN bore treatment. (See previous post)

If you feel the need to clean the bore once in a while, cool...... but make sure you use the clean swab and hBN process again. It only takes a few minutes. I unscrew the swab and keep it inside the pill bottle so that it remains uncontaiminated.
To understand how it works, save me a bunch of typing and read the patent.

I'll post process pics of the Moly setup on the weekend.

The new Dillon Commercial Vibrator/Tumbler.
The large motor easily handles 4 larger jars, two for Moly coating and two with corncob. The CNC cut top is 1" thick and is a perfect fit.
The red dust inside is from its first run cleaning 500 Lake City LR cases. 500 at one time. I was surprised it handled that many.

tumblers001.jpg


2 Moly jars and two corncob jars on the same top, or 4 Moly jars if you're doing a lot of coating. 30 seconds to one minute dwell time in the corncob. We do 30 seconds.

tumblers003.jpg


The Frankfort Vibrator handles two larger jars for hBN impact coating instead of 4 small ones.

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100 washed/cleaned 175 SMK's, 50 in each jar with the hBN impact coated .177 steel BBs. .8gr -5 micron hBN in each jar, 3 hours on vibrate and then tumble, load and fire.:D

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Latigo
 
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