barrel cleaning questions

P

p5200

Member
I have heard some say to push a nylon bore brush through the barrel only, in the direction the bullet travels unscrew it, remove rod screw brush back on and repeat. Then, some say to just work the brush back and forth inside the bore? can anyone clear this up for me. :confused: This is a .223 cal. Thanks! :)
 
Wow! you did that just to confuse me even worse didn't ya! just kidding :D This is a new barrel on a Savage 10fp so I assume, the copper fouling will taper off some after 200 rounds or so and proper cleaning along the way. I have REM 40-X bore cleaner, Hoppe's no. 9, Break Free clp and some GunSlick Foaming Bore Cleaner. I guess the REM 40-X with it's fine abrasive, will help polish and smooth any small burrs. The rod I have right now is a Dewey Stainless steel for 22-26 cal I have .22 Jags, Bronze, and nylon brush. I guess I need to get a guide to protect the throat area. Do I need a guide for the muzzle/crown also? I'll shut up now :D Thank you very much for the link lots of good info there! :)
 
Well..........

Most Benchrest Shooters clean religiously, usually after every group.

I get a good chance to inspect my own barrels on a regular basis, as I set them back every 350 rounds or so. (just to freshen the throat area).

I believe that how you clean is what hurts a barrel, not how often. The single most important aspect of cleaning, (aside from using a proper bore guide), is to stop that cleaning rod the instant the jag or brush clears the muzzle. Letting that rod lay on the bore while in motion will destroy a crown.

But that thing about unscrewing a brush and not going back the other way, that is just plain ridiculous. I not only inspect crowns with a 10x glass, but also a .0001 indicator if I decide to chuck up the barrel and freshen the crown.

A bronze brush damaging a crown.??? It ain't happenning .........jackie
 
Thanks Jackie, so if I understand correctly, I need to pull the brush or jag back out through the breach of the barrel to unscrew it and never, push all the way out the muzzle/crown to unscrew it from the rod? someone please correct me if I'm wrong. A recommendation on a bore guide to protect the throat area on a Savage 10fp .223 would be appreciated also. I figured you folks on this forum, would know the most about properly cleaning a rifle. Thanks! :)
 
Okay. I will bite. What are you doing with that 10FP????
Plinking????
Score matches????
Varmint matches????
Ground hogs? Don't clean it till you miss a ground hog.
I have a model 12 .223 rem. I don't clean it till I miss the 10 ring at 200y. My club has a weekly score match.
I do use this though.
http://www.6mmbr.com/catalog/item/1433308/954882.htm :)

Oh and I don't unscrew the brush. Back and forth once. Is one time. One time for each bullet.
With jag patch. Patch goes out. Never back.
Read Dwight's article.
 
Hi, I am just a casual informal shooter no, competition just punching paper usually 100yds. my main concern was I wasn't sure if the jag could be pulled backwards as well as pushed forwards to remove from the throat, after removing the patch, due to the way it's made and not scratch up the crown, bore or anything. This is my first experience using a jag so I thought I'd better make sure I was going to be using it properly and not cause damage to the bore or throat. Thanks! :)
 
bore cleaning

I use a bore scope to monitor the effectiveness of my cleaning regimen and rarely use a brush. I've been using the Wipe Out family of products and find them to work extremely well. My routine is to use Wipe Out Acclelerator along with Patch Out. Several applications using this routine are followed by Acclerator and Wipe Out foaming bore cleaner. This is used when I have plenty of time as in overnight applications. After removing all solvents I then check the bore with the scope and there is no need to do anything else and no brushing took place.

For cleaning at the bench I use Wipe Out Accelerator followed by Patch Out. I may use a stiff nylon brush at the bench to hasten the loosening of carbon and allow the chemicals to work.

Lou Baccino
 
I always guide a patch or brush out of the muzzle so the rod doesn't tap even lightly against the lands.

I prefer to catch the brush on the way out with a clean cloth and dab away any accumulated fouling before pullin it back through. If you use the brush only in one direction the bristles will be bent in one direction only and reduce its effectiveness as the bristle takes a set.

I then use a jag in one direction only, several patches from breech to muzzle to push out dislodged solids.
I use an undersized jag and thick felt patches. The felt picks up the solids but the loose fibers hold them without pressing them against the bore.

When using a patch in a slotted head I don't let it leave the muzzle. I push till just visible then draw back carefully. I use a loose patch to swab rather than scrub.

Its spray ,then brush, then jag, then spray and swab , then brush and jag then spray and swab and then let sit for awhile and repeat.

I usually clean as well as I can then spray and swab and let set for several hours and do it all again. Stuff missed the first time can float loose hours later.

PS
I got a can of Gunslick foaming cleaner, I'll give it a try next time I do any shooting.
 
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Old Gunner said:
I always guide a patch or brush out of the muzzle so the rod doesn't tap even lightly against the lands.

I prefer to catch the brush on the way out with a clean cloth and dab away any accumulated fouling before pullig it back through. If you use the brush only in one direction the bristles will be bent in one direction only and reduce its effectiveness as the bristle takes a set.

I then use a jag in one direction only, several patches from breech to muzzle to push out dislodged solids.
I use an undersized jag and thick felt patches. The felt picks up the solids but the loose fibers hold them without pressing them against the bore.

When using a patch in a slotted head I don't let it leave the muzzle. I push till just visible then draw back carefully. I use a loose patch to swab rather than scrub.

Its spray ,then brush, then jag, then spray and swab , then brush and jag then spray and swab and then let sit for awhile and repeat.

I usually clean as well as I can then spray and swab and let set for several hours and do it all again. Stuff missed the first time can float loose hours later.

PS
I got a can of Gunslick foaming cleaner, I'll give it a try next time I do any shooting.
Click to expand...
Hi Old Gunner, so when you say you use the jag in one direction only, do you mean you remove the patch from the jag at the muzzle and then, pull the empty jag back out through the chamber? or, do you remove the patch and, unscrew the jag at the muzzle then, pull the empty rod back out through the chamber? sorry to keep asking such dumb questions :eek: I used to cringe, at the thought of pushing a jag through any barrel but, began to realize it must be safe since everyone does it. I guess what I'm really trying to ask is, is it safe to pull an empty jag back, out through the chamber since the little knobs on the jag seem to grab my fingers when I slide them in the opposite direction across the jag but, don't when pushed the other way. I used the Gunslick once on a Savage 111f which I bought used, and it seemed to do a good job removing copper fouling. It was referred to me on another forum for being really good at removing copper when compared to Sweet's or something like that. :D Any way, I appreciate all the help and, patience from all you good folks. Thanks! :)
 
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A few things are for sure....

No matter what cleaning method you may choose and there are many (even among top shooters in all disciplines), there are a few things that you need not be afraid of:

1. Brass brushes will NOT hurt a modern steel barrel.
2. Most off-the-shelf cleaning solvents will do the job just fine; from the good ole Hoppe's number 9, Sweet's, Butches Bore Shine, Montana X, and Wipeout. Pick the one you like the smell of. They all work.
3. Use a rod guide, most of the ones sold at your local gun shop are adequate. Stoney Point makes a nice one for about $19 with various caliber tips.
4. Most barrels will fire-crack about 3-4 inches ahead of the throat which will affect accuracy long before any cleaning method will affect it; especially if your shooting involves long shot strings at a great Parrie Dog field. Barrel heat is a big factor here.

Pick the handiest, most reasonably priced cleaning method, check its effectiveness by checking how clean the rifling is at the muzzle end by sticking a cotton swab in a little way so the white part better shows up the result. If the first half inch of the muzzle is clean, you're done.:)

good luck...virg
 
p5200

p5200 said:
I have heard some say to push a nylon bore brush through the barrel only, in the direction the bullet travels unscrew it, remove rod screw brush back on and repeat. Then, some say to just work the brush back and forth inside the bore? Can anyone clear this up for me. :confused: This is a .223 cal. Thanks! :)
Click to expand...

Read paragraph "E" here: http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/sgycleaning.html. Benchrest Hall of Fame member Speedy Gonzalez can certainly clear things up for you. ;)
 
abintx said:
Read paragraph "E" here: http://www.varminthunters.com/tech/sgycleaning.html. Benchrest Hall of Fame member Speedy Gonzalez can certainly clear things up for you. ;)
Click to expand...
Thanks very much for the link! I hope I haven't harmed my barrel yet since I have cleaned it twice already, without a bore guide. :eek: I was very slow and careful with the rod but, I'll not shoot and clean again till I can order a Lucas Bore Guide. it took me too long to save up for this gun being on a fixed income to be messing it up. Thanks Again! :)
 
Oh, Yea!!!!!!!!!!
Do you know about bolt grease?????
The lugs should be greased. Just a little bit from a syringe.
http://www.midwayusa.com/browse/Bro...d=17550&categorystring=10612***678***19867***
pick your flavor.

And one of these.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?productNumber=109658
To clean chamber and raceway.
After brushing. Dry patches. Then a patch with Lock-ease, break-free, rem oil, something on the last patch. Very lightly.
When you pull out the bore guide. The chamber mop is used to dry the chamber. Then the bolt raceway is cleaned.
Little grease on the lugs. Little oil on the bolt. Reload or storage.
First shot is called a fouler. Next would be 2 sighters. Ready for hunting.

Now a story. Over on Glocktalk.com.
A "government sniper". Would not say who or where. Showed a picture. .308 Win. 3 shot 3" group. At 578y. Rifle had not been cleaned in 1500 rounds.
Another picture .338 Lapua Mag. 5" group 800M. Not cleaned in 900 rounds.
My memory is a little off. Numbers are close though.
I had not cleaned my G17 in 1500 rounds. That is how, that thread, got heated. :D
I only cleaned it, because the brass was getting scratched. Bowling pins still fall.

http://benchrest.netfirms.com/Barrel Break-In.htm
 
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Zippy started me musing about cleaning chambers. A while back now, I eyeballed a Parker Hale .410 shotgun jag, an ugly bugger of a thing machined so it looked like it was threaded with a bloody great slot down its effective length. Anyway, stick it on an old pistol rod, slip a double thickness of cloth thru the slot (here in Australia we still see roills of 4"x2" cloth) & it is about perfect to dry .308 or .30/06 size chambers.

Looks like this, but mine has a more rounded, shoulder shaped tip:

parkerhale_jag.jpg
 
Darn, I'm going to be putting a new trigger in my Savage 10fp when it arrives today but, I guess I'd better wait till I get a bore guide before shooting it. :(
 
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