Bullet making?

Here is the one I came up with. There is a drill bushing for the guide hole. I have thought about making some changes to it now that I have a surface grinder.
Joe 20201202_194842.jpg
 
Couple more pictures.
 

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I am new to Bullet making but have kinda gone through a crash course. I have 30 caliber Dies to make bullets for Varmint for Score and 6mm Dies to make 105 grn long range bullets.

George Ulrich made my Dies and Presses. , I can't amagine anyone making any better.

geo.c.ulrich@gmail.com

As for cores, my advice is to just get them from Charlie Hood. He can make you any weight you want for what ever Bullet you are making.

Hoodpress@windstream.net

Are your dies carbide? Also any ballpark price range for 30 cal dies and presses needed?

Thanks
 
T Rex

I am pretty sure you are Camadian, my thoughts, contact Hugh Williamson out of Calgary or Bill Mitchell in ON.

They can likely help you out a lot.

If you are thinking true Benchrest bullets those are the guys to talk to up here.
 
Do you have a preferred ogive for 30br using your original reamer specs ? I see you offer both 7 and 10 ogive 118gr.

ZERO free-bore length for both!!;) With 7ogive, a little free-bore length is tolerable, with the ten, not so much.:eek:RG
 
Am attempt to upload some pics: first, the OLD C&H core cutter, complete with bronze "bushing"! :eek:RG
 

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The business end of a home-made reciprocating-slide core-cutter & a couple of other views.:p Used a bunch of salvaged parts and hadn't cleaned the rust off yet!:eek:RG
 

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Through the years, I have experimented with the various 30 caliber bullets intended to be used in Varmint for Score. Keep in mind, 98% of your shooting will be done at 100 and 200 yards.
At this range, precision trumps all other considerations. In short, you want the most accurate bullet available at these ranges, combined with ease of tuning and the combinations tendency to stay there once you get it right.
I have never found a more accurate and consistent bullet than the standard 112 grn built on a .925 jacket. True, on paper, the higher ogive number bullets with a little more weight possess a tad more BC, but at the ranges that the majority of your shooting is done, that slight BC advantage means nothing if the combination will not agg at a level to stay in the 20+ X capability that is needed to be competitive.

There is a great miss conception that I hear repeated quite often. That is, in Score Shooting, you really do not need a Rifle that is as capable in the realm of precision as a Rifle that is shot in Group Shooting. True, you can in theory shoot X’s with a Rifle that is performing at a .300 level. But in the reality of Match Shooting, your .300 Rifle will probably end up garnishing around 16 or 17 X’s. The shooters who a consistently shooting 20+ X’s at 100 yards and topping 30X’s while staying “clean” in the Grand Agg are shooting Rifles that are capable of agging in that magic .200 or smaller range.

Randy makes about the finest 112 and 118 grn bullets available. Through the years, I have used both. Randy can attest that the vast majority I have purchased from him and won matches with are the 112.
 
If/when you order/acquire a set of thirty Cal. dies, do not expect to make usable bullets with the combination of a ten caliber tangent ogive point-die and 0.925" long jackets!:eek:;) The ten ogive configuration dictates using 1.00"> jacket: a shorter jacket will not provide enough shank - even with ZERO free-bore - to seat the bullet into the case neck, and reach the lands. RG
 
If/when you order/acquire a set of thirty Cal. dies, do not expect to make usable bullets with the combination of a ten caliber tangent ogive point-die and 0.925" long jackets!:eek:;) The ten ogive configuration dictates using 1.00"> jacket: a shorter jacket will not provide enough shank - even with ZERO free-bore - to seat the bullet into the case neck, and reach the lands. RG

Is that the same reason for using 1.00" for the 7 ogive 118gr?

Thanks
Matt
 
Is that the same reason for using 1.00" for the 7 ogive 118gr?

Thanks
Matt

NO, a 7 ogive on the 1.00" jacket, presuming an 0.0625" me'plat (knock-out pin) will have a LONG bearing/shank surface - about 0.075-0.080" longer than a 1.00" based ten ogive, and 0.06-0.070" longer than a 0.925" based 7 ogive - this consumes a LOT of valuable case capacity!:eek:

The only reason to use a 7 ogive /1.00"> jacket combination, is when there is, what I consider excessive free-bore, which was/is common, with reamers configured for 150-165gr bullets (1.080 to 1.150" long jackets), which position the bullet base near the neck/shoulder junction - then, the shorter (1.00" long, or , so) may reach the lands. :p

If you're planning on 30BR, Major, etc., you'll want/need only enough shank in the neck to hold onto and position the bullet - you'll want ALL the capacity available! ;) RG
 
NO, a 7 ogive on the 1.00" jacket, presuming an 0.0625" me'plat (knock-out pin) will have a LONG bearing/shank surface - about 0.075-0.080" longer than a 1.00" based ten ogive, and 0.06-0.070" longer than a 0.925" based 7 ogive - this consumes a LOT of valuable case capacity!:eek:

The only reason to use a 7 ogive /1.00"> jacket combination, is when there is, what I consider excessive free-bore, which was/is common, with reamers configured for 150-165gr bullets (1.080 to 1.150" long jackets), which position the bullet base near the neck/shoulder junction - then, the shorter (1.00" long, or , so) may reach the lands. :p

If you're planning on 30BR, Major, etc., you'll want/need only enough shank in the neck to hold onto and position the bullet - you'll want ALL the capacity available! ;) RG

Ok thanks mine is a 30BR with a zero freebore.

I atttached a copy of the print.
 

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What are you all using to lube your cores and jackets? I see alot of mention of a lanolin mix.

also what do you use to clean them? Has anyone tried boiling water and dawn? Or are you all using acetone or camp fuel?

Thanks
 
What are you all using to lube your cores and jackets? I see alot of mention of a lanolin mix.

also what do you use to clean them? Has anyone tried boiling water and dawn? Or are you all using acetone or camp fuel?

Thanks

Cores cleaned in very hot water and Dawn.
Jackets from Bart are really clean. Lube is lanolin and castor oil. Microwave for 10-15 min. Mix real good. Freeze. I was told it's good bolt lube also...
 
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