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The nitride particles you refer to are known as h-BN or hexagonal boron nitride. More answers can be found here: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boron_nitride

The "Boron Nitride Electroless Plating" refered to above is not a nitriding process it is an electroless nickel plating process that has boron nitride particles embedded in it to add lubricity.

If I remember correctly this is what Bill used to plate the complete action, the complete bolt and many small parts: http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/nickel-plating-kits/ptfe-boron-nitride-kits/boron-nitride-electroless-plating-kit-1-5-gal.html While visiting him we looked...

That is why Tim asked about the particular bullet he was THINKING of using. It's obvious in his first post that he's aware of the performance differences in the different Matchkings hence his very specific question.

I understand why Tim asked specifically about the particular bullet he wanted to use. Results of using Matchkings on game varies widely with caliber and the particular bullet. I have watched firsthand the results of Matchkings working great to not at all. Friends and I have had positive results...

http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?59097-Jackie-chambering-a-Barrel-(Pictures http://www.snipershide.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2434569#Post2434569

Here's one http://www.rimfireaccuracy.com/Forums/showthread.php/101-Barrel-Weight-Calculator and another http://pac-nor.com/cgi-bin/pnb/bweight.cgi

Al, I know nothing of these machines other than seeing/reading a few posts now and then over on Practical Machinist. PM has a Maho specific forum, maybe you could get some answers there. The site owner knows quite a bit about the euro machines...

True, but trig or as a ratio are both valid, both will give the same answer and either way is easy to calculate. As a ratio with a 12" rod reaching in 2" where the bushing has .0005" runout the indicator will see 16.66% less movement which is .000083" so the indicator will actually read .00042...

Check out this setup (click on picture far right/middle): http://www.the-long-family.com/tooling.htm Rustystud on this site has built basically the same setup: http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?70175-High-Pressure-Flush-System-made-at-TSJC I used the same sureflo pump as on the Long...

I roughly did the trig on the measurement difference for an 8" long rod stuck 2" into a bore with an initial .0005" of runout as seen by the bushing. I come up with .00016" difference between the runout at the bushing as opposed to what the indicator sees just outside the bore. With a 12" long...

I think you'll find some information on Jackie's methods here: http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?60590-30BR-4198-112-s-and-Other-Stuff/page3 and here: http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?53679-FEEDBACK-FROM-THE-TUNNEL-IN-WEST-TEXAS-Fireforming

Are you refering to these articles? A friend does some damascus forgings and he refered these to me a while back when we were discussing "wootz steel". http://www.tms.org/pubs/journals/jom/9809/verhoeven-9809.html http://www.tms.org/pubs/journals/JOM/9809/Verhoeven-9809.page1.lg.gif

The two drive belts are easy to remove if you want to take the lathe bed off the cabinet. If the belts are old just cut them off and replace later. Remove the drive belts, four bolts and the bed will lift off the cabinet. Cabinets dims 66"Wx19"Dx30"H add 5" to D for speed change lever on front...

I'll second Al's experience on this, I've done it too. There is virtually no dimensional change after heat treating (case hardening) a sizing die made out of 12L14, at least not enough to get anywhere near the sizing you need. If there was any gain it was gone after polishing the interior of the...

Actual dimensions of the die. If you don't have the measuring tools to measure the interior of the die you could use Cerrosafe and measure it that way.

I think you would getter a better result by measuring the interior of the die. I use Starrett small hole gages or telescoping gages (depending on case size) to measure the die at the shoulder and .075" in from the base of the die for the base measurement. Most reamer base measurements are set...

If you are using a speed screw or sighter cam on the rear leg then no they will not solve the problem, using all three feet does not allow for the rear leg to float front to rear on the bench. When using a speed screw/sighter cam the rear leg travels in an arc causing the rear leg to want to...

A penny and a center punch mark placed in the middle is a simplistic solution to the rear leg problem you describe.

Some of Tooley's 338 comments here http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?80890-338-Lapua-Build-Question/page3