Tuners what do you think about my first one?

C

cloudrepair

DWG
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I was asking Jackie about tuners a while back and made me one because I needed or wanted a 13/16-32 thread so what do you guys think ?
bad idea ? Like don't like
Interested in your thoughts
Thanks
Ya I used someone else's rubber
 
Looks cool. Will it change the dynamics of the gun, yes. Will this device make your rifle shoot more accurately? Depends if that barrel is in or not in its most stable dynamic balance. (I.E. will it duplicate its vibration cycle each shot-turn the bullet loose in the same place in its "flip".)

Have at it. Tuners are fun and on a centerfire are a good way o hasten the end-of-life for that barrel. Why? Unfortunately a centerfire rifle in any caliber hat burns a significant amount of powder is born with a limited life. In the normal 6mm PPC or 6BR that life is generally 600-2000 or so rounds depending on what accuracy you are trying for.

So, give it a go.
 
JerrySharrett said:
Looks cool. Will it change the dynamics of the gun, yes. Will this device make your rifle shoot more accurately? Depends if that barrel is in or not in its most stable dynamic balance. (I.E. will it duplicate its vibration cycle each shot-turn the bullet loose in the same place in its "flip".)

Have at it. Tuners are fun and on a centerfire are a good way o hasten the end-of-life for that barrel. Why? Unfortunately a centerfire rifle in any caliber hat burns a significant amount of powder is born with a limited life. In the normal 6mm PPC or 6BR that life is generally 600-2000 or so rounds depending on what accuracy you are trying for.

So, give it a go.
Click to expand...

Thanks Jerry
How will it hasten the barrels end of life
By making it more accurate so it is shot more?
 
I learned I should have drilled and taped it at finish diameter then turn a taper on it after because the end mill I was spotfacing it with grabed it and spun it in my 5C collet (On the tool post I didn't have tight enough) and chewed up my tapered surface.

So I put a radius in there.

I don't have a mill at home or a setup drill press.
 
I have two, yes 2, of those rubber barrel things on the "bloop-tube" of a .22 rimfire.

I have been told it looks like a toilet plunger.............but it works!
 
cloudrepair said:
Thanks Jerry
How will it hasten the barrels end of life
By making it more accurate so it is shot more?
Click to expand...

Adding a tuner, per se, will not effect barrel life, but, shooting the rifle to get the best tuner setting will cause you to shoot more. Just installing a tuner adds more to the tuning equation.


.
 
A tuner isn't too hard to adjust. If you have a load that normally shoots well with your chamber, load some rounds with that load, set the tuner at the back of the threads where you only have one way to go as to adjustment and shoot two shots. If they go in the same hole, shoot another one. If it doesn't increase the size of the hole, you're probably good with the tuner set where it is. If the first two shots don't touch, then there's no need to shoot a third shot. Make a slight adjustment turning it about a tenth inch of movement on the circumference of the barrel counter clockwise then lock it down. With a 32 pitch thread that's about the equivalent of 1/32 of a turn. The main problem I've seen with people using tuners is making too large a change at a time. I can usually get a barrel in tune before I turn it even a half turn. Keep shooting two shots at a time and making changes until they go into the same hole. After that, you have basically two options. You can lock the tuner down and leave it for the life of the barrel adjusting your tune from then on with powder charge and seating depth or you can use one load and seating depth and adjust the tune with the tuner. Shooters have done well both ways. Or you can use a combination of both which would probably be the most difficult way to keep your gun in tune.
 
Mike Bryant said:
A tuner isn't too hard to adjust. If you have a load that normally shoots well with your chamber, load some rounds with that load, set the tuner at the back of the threads where you only have one way to go as to adjustment and shoot two shots. If they go in the same hole, shoot another one. If it doesn't increase the size of the hole, you're probably good with the tuner set where it is. If the first two shots don't touch, then there's no need to shoot a third shot. Make a slight adjustment turning it about a tenth inch of movement on the circumference of the barrel counter clockwise then lock it down. With a 32 pitch thread that's about the equivalent of 1/32 of a turn. The main problem I've seen with people using tuners is making too large a change at a time. I can usually get a barrel in tune before I turn it even a half turn. Keep shooting two shots at a time and making changes until they go into the same hole. After that, you have basically two options. You can lock the tuner down and leave it for the life of the barrel adjusting your tune from then on with powder charge and seating depth or you can use one load and seating depth and adjust the tune with the tuner. Shooters have done well both ways. Or you can use a combination of both which would probably be the most difficult way to keep your gun in tune.
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Well said, Mike! Anyone that thinks using a tuner is complicated has been doing it wrong. It couldn't be any easier.

My tuners have 32 marks and use a 32 tpi thread. Each mark is essentially .001" of tuner travel. On a centerfire, it is extremely typical to see only 4 marks between completely in tune and completely out of tune. There are many sweet spots and they're easy to find so long as you move the tuner .001" (or one mark one my tuner) at a time. If you Move it .005 at a time, a 1/4 turn, half turn, full turn at a time...and you're chasing your tail. You can luck into a sweet spot that way, but then what? You're chasing your tail again if you move it some nominal amount.

The best advice I can give anyone about adjusting a tuner is to be very methodical and assume most of what you've read or heard in the past is WRONG!
Another false narrative you'll read on the shooting forums is that tuners only affect vertical. A very typical scenario goes as follows. If it's completely out of tune, you'll see big round groups, like high .3 or low. 4s. Move it 12 mark and the group goes diagonal and still large. Move 1 one mark, still diagonal but smaller. The 3rd mark will have one bullet hole on top of the other..about a bullet hole of vertical. Move 1 more mark and the bullet holes are sucked together into one small hole. Bingo! You're there! That is very, very typical.

Look up my thread on here called " Tuner Story." It's not a fluke. I do them like this every time..and winning matches.

I often have shooters, from newbie to world record holder, call me to tell me they couldn't believe how simple it is and that it works just like this! You can lead a horse to water...
 
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To the op...Your tuner looks fine. Just don't get too caught up in the dampening agent/rubber aspect. It matters some but is not the most important factor, by a long shot, to proper tuner design. Remember, just a short time ago, most tuners were a solid mass, be it steel or aluminum. It has more to do with consitently and repeatably controlling the vibration than with dampening it out. If you hang a mass at the end of the barrel, that is properly attached yet is conducive to adjusting(preferably without tools), it'll work. The magic is not in the rubber material.
 
You can believe what Mike is saying. Back in FEB I shot 10 groups at 100 yards
4 zero's 4 ones a 230 and 270 . Now almost 3 months later I shot a test yesterday
same load was out of tune . Per Mikes advice I learned what a thousandth was on my
tuner. in just a few minutes and adjustments I WAS shooting zero's again . Gun is ready
I just need to get well enough to go to matches again. Thanks Mike

NEW FOUND CONFIDENTS
 
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dnal said:
You can believe what Mike is saying. Back in FEB I shot 10 groups at 100 yards
4 zero's 4 ones a 230 and 270 . Now almost 3 months later I shot a test yesterday
same load was out of tune . Per Mikes advice I learned what a thousandth was on my
tuner. in just a few minutes and adjustments I WAS shooting zero's again . Gun is ready
I just need to get well enough to go to matches again. Thanks Mike
Click to expand...

Thank you sir! Anyone that's been around this site for very long knows that this is a "no BS zone." This is the one site where you can count on info being policed better than any other. That's why I've been so adamant about clearing the air around tuners for so long now. There is too much misinformation out there in regard to how to use them. You read and hear everything....005" at a time, 1/4 turn, full turn, etc. In my experience, there are exactly ZERO instances of any of those examples being correct..even with other makes of tuners. With mine, the marks are in .001" increments for a reason. I suggest very strongly that everyone use them that way.

It's very understandable that people would assume they need to move them further, but it's plain wrong. We see all these pretty fine threads and it's easy to assume you need to use them. FWIW, that's part of why my tuner is designed where you don't see any threads when it's installed! Also, as I've already mentioned, there are numerous threads stating other "tuning" graduations. Ever wonder why so many and, no one can agree? It's not that tuners don't work...that's proven. It's that people have way over complicated how to make them work. I was just one of the first to use .001" of tuner travel during testing..out of necessity, because nothing else did work! If you've played with tuners, you've already seen that they do affect group size and shape. The problem for most comes when trying to repeat good settings when moving some nominal amount of adjustment based on what they read on the internet or because Joe Blow said so.

Tuners are not a fad and they are here to stay. They are very easy to use and some of us have figured out HOW to use them. They're gaining popularity...It's only a matter of time before you have a tuner and know how to use it, or get beat by someone who does. And it won't be long. Most of us have already been there! When the top shooters figure them out, it's too late. Thankfully, many of them are busy tuning by the same methods that they've always used and are just now scratching the surface with tuners. You can still get beat by someone without a tuner, that's a good shooter and who is very good at keeping up with tune. But if you do, it should not be because you weren't in tune, too. If you shoot a match or even a target with an out of tune rifle, with a tuner, that's your own fault.
 
Mike is 100% right. I have his on 2 barrels and if you tune your load on 0 and then go in .001 or out .001 according to temperature you have it. Something hard to believe until you actually see how they work and how simple they are.
 
I have been making tuners with those deresonator for years. I have even mentioned it here a few times. yes they work, and i take mine one step farther. I like to place one on my barrel about mid length. I had a rifle i had built here recently that you could feel it vibrate after the shot. it rang like a dam phone after every shot. I used a popular stock design that guys have been using for years. i glued the action just like i have done several times before. Not real sure why this rifle vibrates like it does? The rifle shoots extremely well even with the vibration, but i wanted to try and tame it a bit. i bought a couple deresonators and placed one on the barrel about half way up. the rifle still vibrates a touch but it reduced the vibration id guess about 75 percent. I then made a tuner with a deresonator on this rifle and i no longer feel the vibration at all. lee
 
Can someone tell me

How many thousands of an inch a Harrell's tuner moves with each click please?

Thanks,

Pete
 
Mike,

With no provision on your tuner to add weight, can you explain why your tuner works without adding weight to it? ( I have one, it works. )

Also, I think the tuner was set up using the RXP? should the length be adjusted if it is moved to another barrel or does it matter a whole lot?

Thanks,

Pete
 
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