South Bend Heavy 10

Z

Zebra13

Member
Gents,

Because everybody who isn't a gunsmith or a machinist by trade should have two lathes, I went off and bought a South Bend Heavy 10 this weekend. After hearing some on this forum wax poetic about the Heavy 10, I thought I should see what the fuss is all about.

My particular Heavy 10, a CL8187A model, was purchased new from South Bend in the 50's by the old owner's grandpa. It remained in the shop when the son took over the business, and was sent back to South Bend for a full rebuild at some point. It remained in the shop when grandson had the business and remained with him when the shop closed it's doors. Grandson is hanging his apron up for good now and wanted to move it along, so I reduced it to possession.

I see to lubricate it per factory specs, one would need three different oils. One being a spindle oil, one a way lube, and the third I'm not clear on. What oils and brands are you guys running in your South Bends?

Thanks for your help,
Justin
 
ISO 10 Spindle Oil. Get as little as you can. The South Bend recirculates oil, and if it is in good condition, you will rarely need to add oil to the spindle cups. I have had a 13" for ten years, and I have never needed to add oil.

ISO 46 Medium Hydraulic Oil for the bushing and gear Oilers.

ISO 68 Way Oil.

I have found that a couple of Plews oil cans have been handy for the 46 and 68.

Bill Jacobs
 
Theres a guy on ebay selling the correct mobil oils in various size containers. The spindle oil is most important to set your clearances with an oil wedge.
 
I have been using

10 W 30 for years on my entire machine and it works the very best. Think about the fact that automobile engines last well over 100 K miles @ high RPM's, eh? As simple as all the to be lubed surfaces are on a machine such as a metal Lathe are, the 10-30 or 5-40 for that matter is more than adequate, from my experience. A machinery dealer told me this years ago so I did as he said. He recommended diluting bar & chain oil for way lube also, by the way, to make it just a tad less sticky. I used 5-40 last fall because I planned to use my lathe in an unheated shop but I think that was overkill.

Now, there is nothing wrong with the traditional or recommended oils but some think they are a bit overboard. Look at some of Doubleboost's YouTube videos sometime. He has been using car oil as well, for years. He changes the oil in his headstock in one of the vids. He uses synthetic but I think I remembering him saying synthetic wasn't necessary.

Pete
 
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On a sleeve bearing machine like that south bend you need at least the correct oil in the spindle. Any other viscosity doesnt produce the correct oil wedge therefore your spindle runout will suffer
 
Thia hasn't een my experience

Dusty Stevens said:
On a sleeve bearing machine like that south bend you need at least the correct oil in the spindle. Any other viscosity doesnt produce the correct oil wedge therefore your spindle runout will suffer
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I am a hobbyist so I don't run my lathe many hours in a week or month. I also don't wish to argue this. I don't agree but that is only an opinion so let's let it go at that. I worked a number of years in the Machinetool Rebuilding Trade back in the dark ages so a lot of my beliefs were generated back then with a lot of hands on. I have re-build several South Bend lathes in the past. A lot of things have improved since many of the South Bend Lathes we usually get our hands on were produced. The amazing thing is how robust the spindle and bearings are in a South Bend lathe, considering the lube system. It would be rare to find an old one with cleanish wicks but they work anyway.

As you may know, the spindle bearing shims are sandwiched together and can be peeled to adjust the spindle lift is there is any; at least mine are. I seem to remember the layers being .001 thick. I peeled one of mine a few years back and the spindle wouldn't turn when I bolted it back together. The lathe was built in 1943 and came out of the WWII inventory, well used. We ground the bed straight back in1968 and scraped the saddle and tailstock in. The tails stock needs it again but I have shimmed it back where it belongs. A few years ago I had the tailstock Spindle extended by 2". The lad who did the work put wipers on the tail stock base at the same time, a good addition.

Pete
 
!0-30 works there as well

Buck Kliebert said:
Justin,
You will also need to lubricate the cone pulley in the headstock which requires http://www.ebay.com/itm/Teflon-Grease-For-All-South-Bend-Lathes-Roy-Dean-Products-Double-Pack-/151006944653?hash=item2328b71d8d:m:muPLDrBL73rcBXPt34UFicA

Buck
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ORIGIONALLY, oil was used for the pulleys but more recently grease has come to be "the thing". Mebby grease is better but I stick with the 10-30 for everything. Why would anyone want to use a product that might contaminate the oil in the bearings? There is a warning in the write up of the pervaior of the grease that, by the way is becoming "unobtanium", HA !

Pete
 
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This is opinion, so take it for exactly what it is........ Motor oil is formulated for motors. Motors see high temperatures with extreme swings. Motors need detergents in their oils to be certain that carbon and other products of combustion are flushed from the motors. The South Bend lathe has a very specific regimen of lubrication that, when followed, will result in pretty much zero wear. The spindle runs on a film of oil on the spindle bearing surfaces. This is a far superior system to ball and roller bearings. Stick with the proper Mobil oils mentioned above (ISO 10, 46 and 68) and you will not run into problems.

Bill Jacobs
 
Clemson said:
This is opinion, so take it for exactly what it is........ Motor oil is formulated for motors. Motors see high temperatures with extreme swings. Motors need detergents in their oils to be certain that carbon and other products of combustion are flushed from the motors. The South Bend lathe has a very specific regimen of lubrication that, when followed, will result in pretty much zero wear. The spindle runs on a film of oil on the spindle bearing surfaces. This is a far superior system to ball and roller bearings. Stick with the proper Mobil oils mentioned above (ISO 10, 46 and 68) and you will not run into problems.

Bill Jacobs
Click to expand...

Automotive HD oils are not for machine tools.

Use Mobil oils or the equivalent.


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