Savage 12F - Reports?

Thanks for the tips on finding a base for the 12F. When I last asked the question, Midway USA does not deal with small orders from overseas - pity because they have a huge range.

However I'm following up an Australian ad for Leatherwood/Hi-Lux - looks promising if they have the right base in stock.

Alan
 
Saw an issue with a 12F-TR at a match this weekend. The bipod kept comming loose while the guy was shooting his string. I took a look at the rifle, he had the bipod at the end of the rail. As he tightened the bipod the rail would spring away from the stock. Initally I thought he needed to put a couple of set screws into the adapter to hold it into place. Once I saw the rail bending because the screw that holds the rail on is too far from the edge I'm not sure locking the adapter in place will cure his problem. The screw holding the rail needs to be closer to the end of the rail. Otherwise he'll have to place the adapter over the existing screw, the bipod will ride closer to the center of gravity on the rifle.
 
AJ,

I went and looked at mine... the last screw is less than 2" from the end of the stock. If you're telling me he was trying to reef down the bipod so close to the end of the stock that that screw couldn't keep him from bending the last inch or so of extruded aluminum channel that makes the rail... then I'd say he needed calibrated with a friggin' clue-by-four upside the head. The adapters from Harris do come w/ set screws to keep 'em in place (my original factory one was missing from the case when I got the rifle), and work quite well. Some *advanced* shooters may realize some benefit from scooting the bipod way the heck out by the muzzle, via longer fore-ends or extension bars, but someone new to F/TR would probably be better just mounting the bipod about 3-4" back from the fore-end tip - coincidentally, right between two mounting screws for the fore-end rail for maximum support. Hell, thats where I put it and I'm not exactly a novice.

I'm not saying the bipod won't come loose there either. For whatever reason, the contour of the fore-end on a 12F/TR vs. the contour of the cradle on a Harris bipod don't play nicely together (don't ask me, I didn't sign off on it). The quick and easy solution is to get some small strips of PSA sandpaper and stick them on the stock either side of the rail where the bipod is going to be mounted - it won't twist or move *at all* with the screw tightened down a reasonable amount.

These are good guns, but they are not idiot-proof.
 
Monte,

He had the factory adapter which lacks setscrews. He wasn't over-tightening the screw, the bipod was shooting loose. I put a gorilla grip on the knob, thats when I saw the rail bending.:D Thinking he'll go with setscrews and place the adapter over the first screw. Couple of guys from Sinclair International where there, agreed with the fix.
 
Ah. You must have one heck of a grip to bend aluminum channel that easily. I almost wonder if you didn't break off one of the screw heads going through the channel.

I've been around one or two of these rifles, with the factory adapter:rolleyes:. They don't normally come loose that easily, but I do have to say I much prefer the Harris adapter. Even then, keep in mind what I said about the sand paper. Mine kept twisting around on the fore-end, even when it was cinched down as tight as I could get it, until I gave it some more 'grip'.

Better yet is a GG&G bipod... lighter weight, and attaches/detaches much more easily. Can't lock it down for tilt as securely as a Harris, but it is still a nicer bipod over all. Mounts down to its own picatinny-to-rail adapter, which secures in place with set screws ;)

Monte
 
Ah. You must have one heck of a grip to bend aluminum channel that easily. I almost wonder if you didn't break off one of the screw heads going through the channel.
Click to expand...

Na, screws are safe. He tightened it as tight as he could, then I took a look. I was thinking about grabbing an allen wrench using the short side to turn with. I twisted the knob with finger pressure and saw the rail lifting out the notch. Figured we better skip the allen wrench......................................:D

If it were mine I'd had the rifle in the shop installing a screw at the very end of the rail.

Is the GG&G bipod one of those that look like a bridge beam? Think a couple of MI shooters used one at Lodi.
 
No, the GG&G was out before the flying i-beam look got popular ;)

Here's a link to the page. My two gripes are that I miss the notched legs of the Harris (which once you're set up, are a non-issue), and even with the tilt knob tightened down, you can still pan it a little, albeit slowly. Other people love it - gives it a bit of friction, and you just check the level each shot, set the rifle accordingly, and shoot. Seeing as they shoot better groups from the 'pod than I do, they may be onto something.

Right now it stays on the wife's rifle... it is simpler to take on and off, which was key in keeping her interest early on. Now she just about outshoots me!
 
No problem with my savage

I bought the Savage 6.5-284 earlier this year just to test the waters of precision shooting for fun. Seemed like a good deal. 1100 bucks, no waiting on gunsmiths and shipping.
I played around with it for couple of months at the local range and got some load development and other tips on this forum. I had so-so(moa) results and didn't know if it was the gun or the dummy shooting it.
I then got sidetracked for a couple months and then took 120 degree summer off.
Last week I went to the range with about twenty five rounds I had loaded but not tested in the spring.
I shot several 100 yard 3 round groups well under moa and for the last three rounds I moved the target out to 200 yards and shot a 1/2" group. I know a half dozen half moa groups is nothing to some of you guys but I'm happier than a pig in slop.
The gun is bone stock as it came from shop. No bedding, or anything. T36 Weaver scope. 48.3 grains H4350, 142 MKs, .010" into the lands.
Thanks for letting vent my enthusiasm and give a thumbs up to the savage.

David
 
cowgard said:
I bought the Savage 6.5-284 earlier this year just to test the waters of precision shooting for fun. Seemed like a good deal. 1100 bucks, no waiting on gunsmiths and shipping.
I played around with it for couple of months at the local range and got some load development and other tips on this forum. I had so-so(moa) results and didn't know if it was the gun or the dummy shooting it.
I then got sidetracked for a couple months and then took 120 degree summer off.
Last week I went to the range with about twenty five rounds I had loaded but not tested in the spring.
I shot several 100 yard 3 round groups well under moa and for the last three rounds I moved the target out to 200 yards and shot a 1/2" group. I know a half dozen half moa groups is nothing to some of you guys but I'm happier than a pig in slop.
The gun is bone stock as it came from shop. No bedding, or anything. T36 Weaver scope. 48.3 grains H4350, 142 MKs, .010" into the lands.
Thanks for letting vent my enthusiasm and give a thumbs up to the savage.

David
Click to expand...

Good for you David.

The 4350 will be hard on the throat of the 6.5, try H 4831SC, about 52 grains at the lands. This load works for me to a 1000.

Again, enjoy the slop.
 
billt said:
Cowgard,

If I may ask, how do you like the Weaver T-36, and how did you mount it? Bill T.
Click to expand...

I like the scope. I've not used any of the other premium scopes to compare it with but it is clear as a bell and the adjustments (elevation, focus, ect.) work perfect. I mounted it with Burris Signature Rings with plastic inserts. The offset inserts are nice . They let you keep the scope in the middle of it's adjustment range, which I'm told is a good thing.

I got a cheek piece from a Choate Varmint stock (8 or 10 bucks at brownell's) and screwed it on with a drywall screw to get my eyes where I want them.
David
 
Thanks for the comeback. I like the Burris Signature Rings as well. I have a set installed on a Weatherby and I like the fact of how well they hold without any lapping, or marring of the scope tube. They are becoming hard to find, especially in 30 MM. I'm assuming that's because of how well they are selling. I have 2 Savage .308's I'm going to be scoping out later this year. A 12 F-TR, and a 10 FP.

I was going to buy glass for them just a few weeks ago, but with the election looming, I decided to purchase 2 AK-47's instead. I am glad that I did because prices have skyrocketed on them since the messiah won, and availability is just about non existent. Just 6 days before the election when I bought most every shop I visited had several in all the configurations, and the same with AR-15's. Now every shop is back ordered for weeks, and prices in some places have over doubled. It's unbelievable! Anyway, my glass purchase is now pushed back a bit. At least I don't have to worry about Hussein banning those. At least not yet! Bill T.
 
I just finished scoping out my Savage 10-FP last week, and the Burris Signature Zee Rings saved the day. I ordered a set of the Posi-Align Offset Inserts with both sets of rings, and was glad I did. First off, I couldn't get the screws for the bases in because Savage doesn't use plug screws. Because of this whatever coating they used on the barrel and action got inside the screws requiring me to take it to the gunsmith to have them cleaned out. I didn't have a 6-48 tap handy, and didn't feel like ordering one.

Then, after setting the scope in the rings, I find the holes in the receiver were so far off center, I didn't have enough windage in the scope to get it back on target. The Burris Posi-Align inserts saved the day. I used a +.020 and a -.020 in the front ring and that still wasn't enough. I then installed a +.010 and a -.010 opposite in the rear ring, and that put the scope right on center with the windage set central. It's too bad gun companies can't have better Q.C. standards than this. If it weren't for the Burris Offset Inserts I honestly don't know what I would have done other than going to a windage adjustable base. I used the 2 piece Burris Extreme Tactical Steel Bases. It's a nice rigid set up. I have another scope coming hopefully this week for my Savage 12-F/TR. I hope I don't run into the same issue. I've already soft assembled the bases and rings just to make sure everything went together OK, but we will see. Thus far I'm happy with the rifle, but Savage needs to hire someone who knows how to indicate something straight in a machine. .030 in 4 inches is inexcusable. Bill T.
 
billt said:
Thus far I'm happy with the rifle, but Savage needs to hire someone who knows how to indicate something straight in a machine. .030 in 4 inches is inexcusable. Bill T.
Click to expand...

Actually, Savage engineering needs to determine how far 'out-of-alignment' the holes need to be drilled. So when the 'heat treat tweak' will move them 'in-alignment! If it wasn't for the 'floating bolt head' the Savage action would never work. :eek: I did say that on the Savage forum didn't I. Let me go put on my fire suit. :p

D R
 
I just mounted up a second Bushnell 3200 Elite Tactical on my Savage 12-F/TR yesterday, and had zero issues. I used a Burris +.010 / -.010 insert combination to bring the elevation spot on. Windage was perfect just as it bolted up. Hopefully I'll get to the range Saturday, weather permitting. I've got 6 loads prepared for both rifles. I'm anxious to see how they both shoot. Bill T.
 
Here are some pictures of the Savage 12-F/TR scoped out and ready to go to the range, hopefully tomorrow. As you can see I went with the Bushnell 3200 Elite Tactical 5-15X on it as well. I really liked the clarity, quality, and price. The Burris Extreme Steel Tactical Bases show up as a almost gun metal grey color for some reason, but they are very similar to the rings in color and finish to the naked eye.

savage12ftr013sz3.jpg


savage12ftr012us1.jpg


savage12ftr010eu2.jpg


Kind of a crappy through the lens shot of the reticle. It almost looks segmented because it isn't straight and vertical in the photo, causing the pixel blocking you see. Time for a better camera.

savage12ftr008av3.jpg


Really weird how the bases look so grey. For some reason the color saturation isn't as profound.

savage12ftr006jc8.jpg


savage12ftr003kp9.jpg


Overall I'm pleased how they both mounted up. Just enough clearance for the front lens covers. Hopefully, the next photos will be of some nice targets! I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Bill T.
 


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The range session for both guns went well. I got out early and had the range all to myself. Wind was dead calm. The large "Number 2" was the worst target shot all day. The rest are pretty acceptable. All were fired from a Bald Eagle front and rear rest. The left "Shoot-N-C" target was the 10-FP the right one was the 12-F/TR. Overall the 12-F/TR was a little more accurate, and I suspected it would be with the heavier contour 30" target barrel. Both guns show a preference for Nosler Ballistic Tips which kind of surprised me. I thought the Sierra Matchkings would do better. I don't "break in" barrels, both were shot as they came from the box. Overall it was a good first outing, and it looks like I'll be looking to Nosler, Varget, and Lapua as components of choice for both of these guns. I am going to try some Hornady A-Max bullets, as well as some Berger VLD's. But that's another session for yet another day. Bill T.
 
Sorry, I may have missed it elsewhere, but, what range (Distance) were these shot Bill?

Cheers,

Mark
 
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