Rimfire Cleaning: Is Brushing Bore Absolutely Necessary ?
- Thread starter bigh
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Pete Wass
Well-known member
The Eley Engineers think so
I read an article on Rimfire bore cleaning a while ago and an Eley engineer said that after I think it was 100 but could have been 200 rounds, the bore should be brushed to remove lead. I was astounded as there are some who maintain the Rimfire barrels do not collect lead, in spite of what the Eley Engineer said. Now, who would you believe?
Try rubbing a bronze brush on your barrel and see if you can scrape off any metal with it, in a place you do not want marks. There is a company that makes a number of cleaning aids called Bore Riders, I think. I bought several years ago now. What they do is keep one's brush from touching the crown. The company also makes Jags that do the same. Great products.
Pete
I read an article on Rimfire bore cleaning a while ago and an Eley engineer said that after I think it was 100 but could have been 200 rounds, the bore should be brushed to remove lead. I was astounded as there are some who maintain the Rimfire barrels do not collect lead, in spite of what the Eley Engineer said. Now, who would you believe?
Try rubbing a bronze brush on your barrel and see if you can scrape off any metal with it, in a place you do not want marks. There is a company that makes a number of cleaning aids called Bore Riders, I think. I bought several years ago now. What they do is keep one's brush from touching the crown. The company also makes Jags that do the same. Great products.
Pete
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M
MIKECAMERON
Guest
You absolutely MUST brush the bore to remove the carbon/lead ring from the front of the chamber in the bore. I think this is the lead the eley techs are talking about. There usually is zero lead build up in the bore further up the barrel from the chamber unless you have a really bad finish in your bore and if you have that it aint gonna shoot anyways. It takes at least 6 strokes with a bronze brush to remove the carbon/lead ring from your chamber. I have tested this many, many times, 1 stroke wont do it, 2,3,or 4 wont do it.5 sometimes does it but it doesn't get every speck of carbon every time, 6 times gets every speck every time. Also the nylon brushes don't work either, that is my experience anyway.
Mike Cameron
Mike Cameron
Note to friend Wass....sentence #2, no lead in barrel past chamber??? Unless????
I'd wager there are few if any shooters that shoot more matches than Mike.
One can only assume aliens beam down into the gun room when he sleeps to remove the secret lead in the barrel.
Pete........Curious minds want to know.
For what it's worth, nylon brushes work just fine with a little dab of IOSSO bore cleaner applied.
C
cobra1
Guest
Mike
Could you provide detail on your cleaning technique; ie:
brush brand, pull? from muzzle? always new brush? solvent on brush? how deposited? etc etc
thx gn
Tim & Mike have given some great info. I'll add from my experiences the barrel & ammo you are using will dictate what the combo likes best.
For instance I found that brushing wasn't necessary for about 3 cards when shooting Midas + in one of my sporter barrels. About 100 rounds. Not sure that would work on all my barrels or not.
I can not do that shooting Eley. I brush after every card. About 35 rounds.
I suspect it is the carbon ring building more with the Eley but to be honest never have looked at it with my bore cam to know for sure. Its just what I'd seen from the results on the targets.
Keith
Nobody can say what will be the best cleaning method for all barrels. Choose the most conservative method to begin with and go from there. By "conservative" I mean the full deal...wet patch, bronze brush, wet patch then dry patches. In other words, get the barrel clean. Reduce that method at any time to see what works best for the barrel. You can do most anything you want if you've got a few hours to revert back to the full cleaning.
My rifle was a pretty good one and I never deviated from the full cleaning method. Be advised that you have to foul the barrel after cleaning and don't be fooled by the first two shots that look good....shoot a couple more and do it quickly because the clock is tickin'.
My rifle was a pretty good one and I never deviated from the full cleaning method. Be advised that you have to foul the barrel after cleaning and don't be fooled by the first two shots that look good....shoot a couple more and do it quickly because the clock is tickin'.
And this is relevent, precisely why??
It isn't to anybody, pal.
HuskerP7M8
Member
Hey Guys,
You might try this:
http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...ts/weapons-care-system-pellets-prod13839.aspx
http://www.boretech.com/products/c4-carbon-remover
There's more than one way to skin a cat (purge the C/L ring).
I've been having great luck the last couple of years using this system and it can be modified with Kroil/JB paste for the rest of the bore if you're so inclined.
If you care to try it, let me know what you think.
Landy
You might try this:
http://www.brownells.com/gun-cleani...ts/weapons-care-system-pellets-prod13839.aspx
http://www.boretech.com/products/c4-carbon-remover
There's more than one way to skin a cat (purge the C/L ring).
I've been having great luck the last couple of years using this system and it can be modified with Kroil/JB paste for the rest of the bore if you're so inclined.
If you care to try it, let me know what you think.
Landy
Pedro,
I would offer two thoughts. First, when using the IOSSO I have used two methods, one using a patch moistened with it wrapped around a nylon brush. Second, using one of the IOSSO blue nylon brushes .
I only use it to clean the throats and you only need a small amount.
After cleaning the throat, which requires less frequent applications after it has been seasoned, I usually clean everything with a brush and Rimfire Blend. The citrus based solvent cleans everything up quite well.
Good shooting.
Landy,
I've been wondering about those pellets, I know this is a feel thing but do you feel they really fill the bore and get down into the bottom of the lands ?
I also plan on trying Wipe Out solution since we've been using it exclusively for a while in the PPC's and it works so well, especially on higher round barrels keeping that hard carbon heat checking at bay with zero ill efects.
Thanks.
HuskerP7M8
Member
Hi Tim,
I'm not certain if they'll fill the bore with those barrels having somewhat aggressive rifling, but with the various MI barrels that are so popular these days, I'm nearly certain they do. I base this on how easily the cleaning rod turns when a bore gets so fouled that patches and brushes don't turn the rod.
I don't know about anyone else, but I've been surprised over the years how often a cleaning rod won't rotate and it happens even with very popular and accepted methods of cleaning the bore.
I never push or pull a cleaning rod thru a barrel without having marks on it that easily show it rotating and I "always" pay attention. If the rod doesn't rotate with whatever cleaning method is preferred, you absolutely need to investigate why.
Sometimes it's the rod's fault and sometimes it's the patch size and/or jag diameter that causes the problem, but you can't clean a bore properly when the tools you're using slide across the rifling instead of following it.
I know I'm being "Mr Obvious" but I suspect there are a great many shooters who don't pay attention to rod rotation and might just possibly benefit from the knowledge....or not! LOL
On multiple occasions I've had barrels quit shooting (Mostly Shilen Octagons) and I've brought them back to life with the felt pellets/Kroil/JB the length of the bore.
I wish I could say it works every time, but that's not the case.
Landy
I'm not certain if they'll fill the bore with those barrels having somewhat aggressive rifling, but with the various MI barrels that are so popular these days, I'm nearly certain they do. I base this on how easily the cleaning rod turns when a bore gets so fouled that patches and brushes don't turn the rod.
I don't know about anyone else, but I've been surprised over the years how often a cleaning rod won't rotate and it happens even with very popular and accepted methods of cleaning the bore.
I never push or pull a cleaning rod thru a barrel without having marks on it that easily show it rotating and I "always" pay attention. If the rod doesn't rotate with whatever cleaning method is preferred, you absolutely need to investigate why.
Sometimes it's the rod's fault and sometimes it's the patch size and/or jag diameter that causes the problem, but you can't clean a bore properly when the tools you're using slide across the rifling instead of following it.
I know I'm being "Mr Obvious" but I suspect there are a great many shooters who don't pay attention to rod rotation and might just possibly benefit from the knowledge....or not! LOL
On multiple occasions I've had barrels quit shooting (Mostly Shilen Octagons) and I've brought them back to life with the felt pellets/Kroil/JB the length of the bore.
I wish I could say it works every time, but that's not the case.
Landy