On Foam Barrel Cleaners:

hmmm....I still use the ole shooters choice / kroil mixture I started with about 20 years ago and a brass brush cuz that is what all the br guys were using. No bore scope so who knows what my stuff looks like.

I do use the JB or rem stuff & the short stroke on a patch every now and then when bored.


Guess I haven't been paying attention.

pf
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Slugger

Good observation. I noticed the tendency of the foam to "sag" inside the bore and used to squirtt mine twice also. Right side up and upside down.
The little .204's did not seem to suffer from this as much.

LOL's I chucked down the change for some Ultra Bore Coat too. I was looking for miracles in problem factory and old milsurp barrels. Nothing ventured nothing gained. They did seem to clean up easier but I was not impressed overall. The fact that using a brass brush with UBC is forbidden turned me off.
A good squirt of Lock Ease is just as effective.


I don't miss my bronze brushes on these rifles at all. I can absolutely get the barrel cleaner with a nylon brush and 5 strokes that I could with a bronze brush and 40 strokes before. It's that good, if you didn't find this much relief, you didn't get the barrel clean enough when you applied it methinks. In fact, I tried it on another barrel last week- my son's 308, which was a bad fouler. I shot a couple of boxes through it and it cleaned up with about 12 patches! The previous time it took about 30-40 patches and lots of scrubbing with JB and Rem cleaner.

So far, I haven't found a rifle that it hasn't worked on and neither have my acquaintances. I'm surprised at your experience.
 
I'm pleasantly suprised that Balistol does as well as it does on that test.
I hadn't considered it to be much of a copper remover. I use it to clean away regular powder fouling then use Sweets 7.62 for copper removal.

I had long ago noted that once Sweets stopped working that Balistol left in the bore for 24 hours would loosen up fouling that Sweets no longer touched.

Since most bores I clean are of very old military rifles known to have used Cupro-nickel jacketed ammo at one time I figured the remaining fouling left after Sweets stopped working would be Cupro-nickel traces from long ago.
Balistol is formulated to remove Cupro-nickel, which is called "Tombac" in Europe.
Tombac leaves either blue or black gunk on the patch rather than green as copper generally does.
 
Big Al--

Very interesting tests.

It appears only one of the many products worked worth a darn.

I use the Hoppes Copper Solvent. After a quick nitro solvent cleaning I lay the copper product heavily into the bore, wait a couple of hours, and clean it out good. Then I re-clean with the nitro solvent.

The patches all come out green. Those are copper salts.

If this product is doing nothing, or virtually nothing, one wonders where all those green patches are coming from.

Thanks for posting this--
 
New results -- - -

I shot two rifles in a score match yestarday, one was the rifle I didn't think cleaned up so well with the foam the day before. The second rifle is my 30-284 GLX . I had some old Quicksilver foam here so decided to run one foam against the other. I sprayed the Quicksilver Engine Cleaner in the One that didn't clean up so well and the Gunslick in GLX.

I Left the cleaners in the barrels about three hours while I was out. When I got back I patched out both barrels. The barrel with the Quicksilver gave a nice smooth patch which came out BLACK with just a hint of light blue. Two subsiquent patches felt got the remainder of the black out and felt glassy smooth. This barrel has under 1000 through-er.

I then patched out the GLX which has at least a couple thou through-er. The first patch felt rough and had lots of drag on it. It too was very black and dark blue in it's center. Two subsequent patches got the remainder of the black out. I then got out the Hawkeye. The Quicksilver barrel was sparkling clean with no sign of either carbon or copper. The GLX was sparkling as well with no signs of copper, even in the crannies.

I had shot between 50 and 60 rounds through each rifle yesterday. I shoot coated bullets so they always clean up easy. I noticed that the GLX still had a pretty good throat left but there is 5 or 6" of serious firecracking ahead of the throat. This is a Kreiger barrel and has been a very good one. Because of it's condition, I don't like to shoot it that much. The other rifle is a 30 BR HV Rock Creek. It also shoots very well and cleans up very easily. I am liking the foam more and more!
 
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Big Al--

Very interesting tests.

It appears only one of the many products worked worth a darn.

I use the Hoppes Copper Solvent. After a quick nitro solvent cleaning I lay the copper product heavily into the bore, wait a couple of hours, and clean it out good. Then I re-clean with the nitro solvent.

The patches all come out green. Those are copper salts.

If this product is doing nothing, or virtually nothing, one wonders where all those green patches are coming from.

Thanks for posting this--


The only reason I post about these results is because I too have been chasing the "Holy Grail" of bore cleaners also. I been doing this for a long time. It just gets down right silly on reflection my obsession with these miracles in a bottle. I don't remember ever passing up a try for a better solution to the problem. The formulas Like ED's Red is just one of the many, when someone said this really worked, I had to give it ago.

Even before I had a Hawk eye bore scope, and had to go by what the patches looked like to determine when the bore was clean, I found that if I gave another brand the test in and already clean (I thought) barrel, I could always get more out.

Let me state right here, that carbon and copper, I've never been able to get out of a bore with just one solution. It takes a two part process to get her clean. Now when someone comes up with that, I've got to give it a go. :D
 
Addendum:

After reading some of the other posts I began to wonder if perhaps I was being irrattionally exuberant about the FOAM. Now, I have always been able to find copper with Bore Tech Eliminator after Amonia has stopped working. I decided to suck it up and give both barrels the "Acid Test, if you will.

Got back from lunch with Ms. Joanna, who has visited for the weekend. She had to shove off for home so once she was away it tried the Eliminator. Now, I make certain that there can not be any influence to the Eliminator from brass furrels. I have a Stainless rod for a 6 MM and the appropriate Lucas bore guide to go with it. I then screw on an Outters plastic 30 cal. jag. So here I go - - -.

I made a pass through the Rock CreeK and held my breath before I dared look at the patch. No discoloration! I thought perhaps MOST of the copper was gone so I wet another patch and slowly stroked it through the bore. NO DISCOLORATION!

I then went to the War Horse Kreiger figureing SURELY there was some small bits of copper left in the old girl. Same deal, first patch, a bit of black from a couple of the groove corners but no DISCOLORATION. I waited for a minute or two before going with a second wet patch and stroked it through. Same result, NO COLOR. Needles to say, I had been holding my breath for nothing! :rolleyes: :D ;) :p Things look better all the time!
 
Big Al--


If this product is doing nothing, or virtually nothing, one wonders where all those green patches are coming from.

--


I have found that with some of the aggressive solvents, they come from the cleaning jags. Prove it to yourself by finding some aluminum wound nylon brushes and wrap your patch around it. Satisfied me.
 
Foam cleaner applicators

Wipeout works well for me but you HAVE to get the accessory spout. Without it you have to spray down the bore from the muzzle. With 30 caliber bores the foam either doesn't make it to the throat or too much gets there and into the action and creates a mess. But it sure seems to work as advertised on carbon and copper fouling.

Vic,
Here's a real easy home made applicator that I use with Wipe Out foaming bore cleaner and accelerator. Go to Home Depot or your local hardware store and obtain two pieces of clear flexible tygon plastic tubing. Buy about a foot of 1/2" o.d. X 3/8" i.d. and a foot of 3/8" o.d. X 1/4" i.d.. Cut an approx. 4" piece of the larger tubing and chamfer the one end that is going to insert in your chamber snugly. Cut an equal length of the smaller tubing, insert the smaller tubing into the larger and cement with Super Glue. You now have a tight fitting applicator that will fit your chamber and keep the foam from getting in your action. I remove my bolt, insert the tubing from the rear and force the chamfered end into the chamber. I have a small funnel that fits into the 1/4" i.d. tubing that I pour the accelerator in to coat the bore. The applicator nozzle of Wipe Out fits snugly into the 1/4" i.d. tubing and you know have a very easy and efficient method of applying the product.

I have a borescope and can verify that Wipe Out works very well, however, I have never found one product that does it all. Sometimes, I'll use JB in the throat area to get the carbon and sometimes I'll use other products prior to using Wipe Out. I just started using Patch Out and it seems to work well also.

Lou Baccino
 
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I think Wipe Out is an excellent product.

I did something a bit different last year when I was breaking in a new Rock 1:17 .30 barrel. I decided to do this in January...not the best time in South Dakota to be at the range breaking in a barrel with the 'one shot and clean' routine.

So, I drove a mile or so from my house...stuck the rifle out the window...and fired one into the ditch. Then, I came back home, put Wipe Out in the bore, let it set for 24 hrs, patched the blue out and repeated the process until the Wipe Out showed very little blue. Took me 11 days to do it...better than freezing outside, though.

First time I've ever broken a barrel in w/o using a bronze brush.

To put it in the barrel, I use a plastic medical 'Christmas tree' adapter on a 1" length of clear tubing. The adapter is a tapered unit with steps on it and seal the muzzle very well. I squirt the foam in, keep the adapter tight against the muzzle until I can just see the foam entering the chamber and then pull the adapter away to release the pressure.

You can get these adapters at any home health store..they are commonly used for syringe and catheter systems and are less than a buck each. Here's what they look like:

http://images.google.com/imgres?img...or+syringes&gbv=2&ndsp=21&hl=en&sa=N&start=63
 
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When you guys are done toying with Wipe-Out buy a bottle of Patch-Out from the same company. Works just as well as the Wipe-Out without the messy foam.
You can greatly speed up the cleaning time also if need be. Use the accelerator and Patch-Out with a nylon brush. Just keep alternating the two products on the brush while scrubbing. It will get foamy and remove copper pretty fast with the scrubbing action.
Or let it sit and do the work itself, your choice.

They also make Carbon-Out. I haven't tried that myself but if it works half as good as the rest of their products it will be the best.

Still want to try KG-12 tho.
 
I don't find

When you guys are done toying with Wipe-Out buy a bottle of Patch-Out from the same company. Works just as well as the Wipe-Out without the messy foam.
You can greatly speed up the cleaning time also if need be. Use the accelerator and Patch-Out with a nylon brush. Just keep alternating the two products on the brush while scrubbing. It will get foamy and remove copper pretty fast with the scrubbing action.
Or let it sit and do the work itself, your choice.

They also make Carbon-Out. I haven't tried that myself but if it works half as good as the rest of their products it will be the best.

Still want to try KG-12 tho.



The foam to be messy AT ALL! From your discription, it seems to me you get involved in a process. The FOAM is a one shot deal that is about as easy as anyone could hope for. I clean at home after the shoot so i don't need a speedy process.
 
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Pete

Yes Wipe Out is easy. Patch Out is a little more versatile. Still your choice.
 
I have been using Wipe-out with the accelerator for about 2 years also, no bore scope, but I know someone that does and he uses the same products. Shooting the long range game is so different than short range, round count and cleaning wise. In BR I would clean right after shooting the target (usually 7-8 rounds), then reload my 7-8 spent cases, go back and patch her out and go to the line. In long range, I go pre-loaded and I clean after the entire day of shooting, 50-75 rounds. I still shoot naked bullets too :D Barrels are cheap, the real cost is in all the components (powder, bullets, primers) it takes to burn it out! It's a great product, no more sawing out the barrel LOL

I just use my bore guide and a long flexible clear plastic tube that fits tight in the bore guide (had to sand the tube down a hair) and this fits the tip of the wipe-out foam, give her a squirt and her comes out the muzzle end.
 
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Pre-loaded

I have been using Wipe-out with the accelerator for about 2 years also, no bore scope, but I know someone that does and he uses the same products. Shooting the long range game is so different than short range, round count and cleaning wise. In BR I would clean right after shooting the target (usually 7-8 rounds), then reload my 7-8 spent cases, go back and patch her out and go to the line. In long range, I go pre-loaded and I clean after the entire day of shooting, 50-75 rounds. I still shoot naked bullets too :D Barrels are cheap, the real cost is in all the components (powder, bullets, primers) it takes to burn it out! It's a great product, no more sawing out the barrel LOL

I just use my bore guide and a long flexible clear plastic tube that fits tight in the bore guide (had to sand the tube down a hair) and this fits the tip of the wipe-out foam, give her a squirt and her comes out the muzzle end.



Keith, It appers to me that folks generally are, more and more 1. going pre-loaded and 2. not cleaning as much at the range. I have found over time that my 30's shoot as well after 70 rounds as they do after 5 and I think it takes 5 or so to foul them properly. I don't think there is any difference in the yardage with regard to cleaning and accuracy.
 
O-Ring snouts make it very easy

Sinclair’s O-Ring snouts keep the foam from entering the action.
http://www.sinclairintl.com/product/5284/Adjustable-Rod-Guides
Just give the foam a good shot from the muzzle, quickly stick a finger over the muzzle till the foam expands out the bore guide, and keep the barrel level till you’re ready to patch. I like to turn the rifle a few times while it soaks.

It seems to me that a foam soaking works better than a Patch-Out soaking. But not certain.

Bill
 
Hello Everyone,

This past gun deer season I had concentrated on utilizing my Blackpowder gun for the whole season. I came across this product from Thompson Center, its their T/C Cleaning Foam. WOW how amazing! I don't have it for sale on my website, but it did an amazing job until I found Ultra Bore Coat. Now with Ultra Bore Coat, I just need to swab my barrel a couple of times no problem. I defiantly recommend the T/C Cleaning Foam.

Thanks,

Jason
 
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