Thanks for the kind words Joey and your encouragement to this new shooter. As you are finding out, it is a process. An expensive process, but a fun one too. I agree totally, buy good equipment the first time. It will save you time and (in the long run) money. It will save you from some frustration but certainly not all. The thing you can not buy is the desire to pursue rimfire precision as far as your disposable resources and skill can take it.
Thanks for the kind words Joey and your encouragement to this new shooter. As you are finding out, it is a process. An expensive process, but a fun one too. I agree totally, buy good equipment the first time. It will save you time and (in the long run) money. It will save you from some frustration but certainly not all. The thing you can not buy is the desire to pursue rimfire precision as far as your disposable resources and skill can take it.
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dynotime
Guest
BenchRest
Bill B Sounds good, I have narrowed down the three front rest's I like, Still looking into a Scope, there are so many, Guy's what do you all use? Do I need to spend 1500 on a Scope?
What Make Scope's are most popular with the .22lr BR guys? What about the power for 50 yards? Thanks as always Greg
Bill B Sounds good, I have narrowed down the three front rest's I like, Still looking into a Scope, there are so many, Guy's what do you all use? Do I need to spend 1500 on a Scope?
What Make Scope's are most popular with the .22lr BR guys? What about the power for 50 yards? Thanks as always Greg
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dynotime
Guest
BenchRest
Thanks Tim I will check it out
Thanks Tim I will check it out
I'm partial to the Sightron 36X scopes. I find their adjustments to be smoother and more precise than the Weaver. They are very positive and repeatable. Either the SII 36X ($430) or The Big Sky model ($650) will do fine. The Big Sky is more $ than the Weaver but still affordable. I have both models and I've had the older SII model for 12 years with no issues and that older scope sits atop my newer 2500X Unlimited rifle. Midway has both Sightron Models. The Weaver is a good scope too, but we all have our preferences. I never saw the need for a $1,500 scope for this game and I've always believed the quality of the adjustments were more important than image quality. We ain't bird watching here. All I need it to do is be able to see the x dot and have the adjustments move the crosshairs exactly the 1/16" I want it to move, every time.
Probably the most popular scope is the Leupold Competition 35X or 45X at about $1K.
Probably the most popular scope is the Leupold Competition 35X or 45X at about $1K.
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dynotime
Guest
BenchRest
Tim I found a Weaver 36X T series XR for $550 not bad. Bill B let me check the scopes you suggested. Thanks Guy's
Tim I found a Weaver 36X T series XR for $550 not bad. Bill B let me check the scopes you suggested. Thanks Guy's
XR's
Be aware that the 46 XR'S had some spotting issues on the lenses that I'm not sure was ever cured. I think they may have even been discontinued? The 36's didn't seem to have problems & the one I have doesn't, however I doubt the manufacture process is much different. I've never mounted mine for this reason.
I would look to the T-Series instead.
I bought a Leupold 40 Competition & the jury's still out whether I think it was worth the extra money.
Keith
Be aware that the 46 XR'S had some spotting issues on the lenses that I'm not sure was ever cured. I think they may have even been discontinued? The 36's didn't seem to have problems & the one I have doesn't, however I doubt the manufacture process is much different. I've never mounted mine for this reason.
I would look to the T-Series instead.
I bought a Leupold 40 Competition & the jury's still out whether I think it was worth the extra money.
Keith
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Shootenhoot
Just Hoot elsewhere
I for one am disappointed that Weaver just chose to cash in their chips on the XR 46 and walk away, instead of correcting the issue and moving on. It's hard to cough up a grand or thereabouts for a Leupold 45, when you're a working stiff. I looked through an XR 46 that a fellow league member has and was instantly hooked on the amount of room around the fine target dot, inside the bull. Nice for when the wind requires small holdoffs. Not that I'm not grateful for my 36X, which affords a small amount of room inside the bull, but more room sure would be better. Unfortunately, that additional room inside the bull makes a lot of room in your wallet. 
Hoot
Hoot
First...Welcome to Benchrest Central! Hope you find out what you need to know here.....
You sound like you're headed the in the right direction but I'll say what others have said....don't spend any money until you have chosen your game(s), and know exactly what you're gonna do and how you're gonna do it.
Shooting a club match can have two outcomes. If someone shows up with the best stuff available, the others will either upgrade or quit. If they upgrade, good! If they quit, the fellow that caused them to quit can use his stuff elsewhere. Soooo, why not be that fellow. What I'm saying here is that this may ultimately be the cheaper way to go and always the better.
You sound like you're headed the in the right direction but I'll say what others have said....don't spend any money until you have chosen your game(s), and know exactly what you're gonna do and how you're gonna do it.
Shooting a club match can have two outcomes. If someone shows up with the best stuff available, the others will either upgrade or quit. If they upgrade, good! If they quit, the fellow that caused them to quit can use his stuff elsewhere. Soooo, why not be that fellow. What I'm saying here is that this may ultimately be the cheaper way to go and always the better.
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dynotime
Guest
BenchRest
Wilbur, There may be one more way to look at this, wait for the club to set up the rules, see what equipment shows up then upgrade as needed without driving others out. I am sure there will be some that will just want to bring a stock (rifle) and just want to shoot, others will really want to win. Maybe the club should
think about some limits at first. Just thinking out loud. Thanks Wilbur
Wilbur, There may be one more way to look at this, wait for the club to set up the rules, see what equipment shows up then upgrade as needed without driving others out. I am sure there will be some that will just want to bring a stock (rifle) and just want to shoot, others will really want to win. Maybe the club should
think about some limits at first. Just thinking out loud. Thanks Wilbur
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dynotime
Guest
BenchRest
Guys looking at scopes I feel and help me out if I am going off the deep end but
I seem to like the Sightron SIIISS 10X50X60 LRMD/CM I really do not know
what LRMD/CM means but the 10X50 will give me a lot of use for the scope beyond just the .22lr BR. Any thought Thanks. I found the price of this Scope at $960. This seem like a lot of scope for the price.
Guys looking at scopes I feel and help me out if I am going off the deep end but
I seem to like the Sightron SIIISS 10X50X60 LRMD/CM I really do not know
what LRMD/CM means but the 10X50 will give me a lot of use for the scope beyond just the .22lr BR. Any thought Thanks. I found the price of this Scope at $960. This seem like a lot of scope for the price.
Shootenhoot
Just Hoot elsewhere
Given my experience with the two Sightron SII scopes I have, I too am interested in that model, but not in the LRMD (Long Range Mil Dot) model. My personal preference is for a less "busy" reticle.
I understand the idea of using it across different missions, but I do not know any 50yd rimfire BR shooter who uses a Mil Dot reticle. A lot would depend upon how big those dots are. My SII 36X has a 1/8 MOA fine cross hair dot and its quite minimalist in appearance. At 36X, the dot barely obscures the aiming spot inside an ARA bull. I wouldn't want it any bigger.
The CM means metric clicks on the turrets. The POA shifts a smaller amount per click than non-CM models. Its something like 1/16 MOA vs 1/8 MOA. Not certain on the specifics.
Hoot
Lately, I've been wondering whether some type of Mil-Dot reticle would be helpful to us, especially shooting sporter @ 6 or 6.5X. Here's my thinking. It's very difficult to see and determine the exact center of the target at that low a power and even more difficult to see the hold-off as there are no visible reference points. I'm thinking that a Mil-Dot reticle could help us with that. We could use the dots to help us find the exact center of the target by bracketing the visible dark rings of the target with the dots on the reticle. We could then use the dots to help with the hold-offs. Once we determine the true center we can then figure out if the conditions call for a hold 1/2 way to a dot, one dot, two dot etc. What most of us are doing now is just holding off somewhere on the target. That's too much guessing. The problem that I have is I need a light weight scope to make weight and I can find no lightweight 6X scope with 1/8" adjustments with a Mil-Dot reticle to evaluate my idea. With a 36X scope I don't really need the Mil-Dot reticle because I can see the target rings which we all use as our reference points for our hold-offs.
Is anyone using or have tried a Mil-Dot scope for sporter?
Is anyone using or have tried a Mil-Dot scope for sporter?
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Bill B - I can't see any reason to have anything but a fine crosshair. It doesn't depend on how you can see but rather what you can see. As far as I'm concerned, I just need to see the big heavy ring along with the crosshair. Certainly, the spotting scope is heavily involved.....and some find it difficult to see anything!
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Doug
Guest
Sporter 101
Shooting a Sporter Target:
1. Start by making sure your Scope is mounted square to your action.
2. Hang your target with a level - perfectly level.
3. Level your Front Rest.
4. Settle your rifle in your front rest so when looking through the scope your cross hairs are square to the target! IF NOT go back to step 2 & start over.
5. Check your parallax & focus.
I can not see the fine rings or the dot so I use the small sighters on the sides for elevation hold & the big black rings at the top & bottom for horizontal holds.
I can see bullet holes so with the aid of my spotting scope I can use those for any hold off I might need.
I run my rifle back and forth a few times between ever target. If does not return to battery or the horizontal cross hairs are not straight across I know I have a problem & try to fix before my next record shot!!
One nice thing about a 6 power scope you can usually see a flag or two when pulling the trigger.
Shooting a Sporter Target:
1. Start by making sure your Scope is mounted square to your action.
2. Hang your target with a level - perfectly level.
3. Level your Front Rest.
4. Settle your rifle in your front rest so when looking through the scope your cross hairs are square to the target! IF NOT go back to step 2 & start over.
5. Check your parallax & focus.
I can not see the fine rings or the dot so I use the small sighters on the sides for elevation hold & the big black rings at the top & bottom for horizontal holds.
I can see bullet holes so with the aid of my spotting scope I can use those for any hold off I might need.
I run my rifle back and forth a few times between ever target. If does not return to battery or the horizontal cross hairs are not straight across I know I have a problem & try to fix before my next record shot!!
One nice thing about a 6 power scope you can usually see a flag or two when pulling the trigger.
Doug, that is exactly how I shoot a sporter (and I've had some success over the years). What you posted is a good primer on how to shoot a sporter, but was just wondering whether a Mil-Dot reticle would make it somewhat easier and more precise. Maybe at some point I'll buy a scope with a Mil-Dot, set it at 6X and see if it makes things easier or not.
It will make it considerably harder, way too much going on looking through it . Tried it once. Once is plenty.
Fine hair or dot.
Sightron
I recently purchased one of these scopes. I am very happy with it. Had a weaver T 36 it was a nice scope but this one allows much finer aim points. Also it is clearer and the wind age and elevation knobs seem to move much easier and track better I have the long range target dot. If you go this direction you can't go wrong. If you want to stay in lower price range I would stay with the weaver T 36.
I recently purchased one of these scopes. I am very happy with it. Had a weaver T 36 it was a nice scope but this one allows much finer aim points. Also it is clearer and the wind age and elevation knobs seem to move much easier and track better I have the long range target dot. If you go this direction you can't go wrong. If you want to stay in lower price range I would stay with the weaver T 36.
The only issues were with the 46's