Necking up to a 30BR. Run out!!

skeetlee

Active member
Whats the proper way to neck up a 6BR case to 30cal without causing a bunch of run out to the case? I am having some 30br brass made and i have noticed that the necked up cases can have as much as .020 run out after necking them up. There has to be a way to minimize this run out. I am also worried about how accurate the turned necks will be since there is so much run out in these cases. The necks all measure pretty close as far as neck thickness goes however. I am having trouble getting these cases 100% straight even after two firings. I am using a crush fit while fire forming but i still See up to .004 run out. I am going to start turning my own brass here this winter so i am just looking for tips and ideas, thus the reason for this post. Is there a die or something a guy can use to help support the case while necking it up to minimize the run out effects of the expander mandrel? It seems to me if there isn't there should be! Also how can i get these cases straight? I dont know what else to try. I lube the cases, i crush fit the brass on head space, i jam the bullets, and i use a stout load. Some of the brass is around .001 to .002 but a few pieces are still around .004 to .005 after two firings.
I had this same issue with the last batch of 30BR brass i had made, so it seems to be a common issue with this stuff. What do i need to know? thanks Lee
 
Have you tried the cream-of-wheat method yet? Using a small charge of pistol powder, around 13.5g of W231, in a 6br case with a wee bit of klennex to hold the powder in the case and fired in a 30BR chamber. OK, I don't use COW, I use klennex :)
 
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Lee, go back and search around until you find Jackie Schmidt's posts about making 30BR cases for the long neck 30BR. Basically, you make a fire forming barrel with a .332 neck. You do this by boring the neck area out with a chucking reamer. Then you fire form the cases via the cream of wheat method. What comes out is a perfectly straight case about 1.550 long. We use a reamer that cuts a neck long enough that we do not have to trim this neck back to 1.525 but you probably would have to trim your cases.

joe
 
Whats the proper way to neck up a 6BR case to 30cal without causing a bunch of run out to the case? I am having some 30br brass made and i have noticed that the necked up cases can have as much as .020 run out after necking them up.

Well as long as you have it made for you you are stuck with the way the person makes it. So the first thing you need to do if the runout worries you is start making your own brass. I recommend blowing it out with pistol powder as your first step. Like Joe Duke said above find Jackie's old post on the subject.

Dick
 
Runout after 2 firings?
Are these cases from the new blue box by any chance?
Do you have access to a few cases from the old paper box?
Can you have some of your new cases annealed?

I think at some point some of the Lapua 6BR brass began to not be annealed properly. Seems about the same time as the new blue box began. We found out last winter that some (20%+) cases of one batch had excessive runout after several firings. They were culled but we haven't checked our latest batches. I plan on annealing my next batch before I do anything else to them.

Anyone else having issues with runout on fired cases? Has anyone checked?
TonyinKY
 
Runout after 2 firings?
Are these cases from the new blue box by any chance?
Do you have access to a few cases from the old paper box?
Can you have some of your new cases annealed?

I think at some point some of the Lapua 6BR brass began to not be annealed properly. Seems about the same time as the new blue box began. We found out last winter that some (20%+) cases of one batch had excessive runout after several firings. They were culled but we haven't checked our latest batches. I plan on annealing my next batch before I do anything else to them.

Anyone else having issues with runout on fired cases? Has anyone checked?
TonyinKY

Here we go again. Only the cardboard box brass is any good. Whats next?
 
I think this is the post you are referring to.

Lee, go back and search around until you find Jackie Schmidt's posts about making 30BR cases for the long neck 30BR. Basically, you make a fire forming barrel with a .332 neck. You do this by boring the neck area out with a chucking reamer. Then you fire form the cases via the cream of wheat method. What comes out is a perfectly straight case about 1.550 long. We use a reamer that cuts a neck long enough that we do not have to trim this neck back to 1.525 but you probably would have to trim your cases.

joe

http://benchrest.com/showthread.php?47200-Making-30BR-out-of-6BR&highlight=30br+fireform
 
Thanks fellas thats some good reading. I am gearing up to turn my own brass this winter. Its time for me to learn anyway. The brass i get turned for me always seems to shoot just fine, but me being me, I'm just kinda picky and i like my brass to be straight. I have been reading an talking with some good folks about the proper procedures, and i think i will be just fine. It really doesn't seem all that hard. I have bucket fulls of 223 range brass from the city range so i have plenty to practice on, plus it will give me something to do this long winter! Now i just need to buy a few more tools and find a shot out 6br barrel. lee
 
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My opinion......

You will ALWAYS end up with more runout when using a mandrel.

You will ALWAYS get less runout using COW

You will ALWAYS have people who don't know any better insisting it's all irrelevant.

(I bay'n making cases for a long time. And arguing with folks who feel their way is "just as good".......... all the while whining about crooked caseheads/annealing problems/cracks/inconsistent seating force/tuning problems/scope problems/rectal fissures etc etc........)

Ken Howell told me this a long time ago.

He's a fart smeller Ol' Kenny.....

al
 
Tony Boyer On Bullet Concentricity

In regards to seated bullet concentricity TB says,

"When shooting with the bullet into the lands, the lands themselves staighten the the bullet without forcing over travel."

"I let the dies and the lands take care of concenticity."

Source;

The Book Of Rifle Accuracy

Page 258
 
Lee: I've used every method out there to make 30BR cases...and some that haven't been discussed. ;) The method I favor is still the expand-up method over a mandrel, for several reasons. No need to go into the reasons, as that'll spin off into a whole 'nother direction. Case necks expanded over a mandrel will have excessive runout. But it's pretty simple to correct.

I use a neck bushing that's .001 under what the average case neck o.d. is after it's been expanded, then simply run the case back into the f.l. die with that bushing. That straightens the neck out relative to the case body and you can neck turn at that point. If you need to expand up a skosh for a better fit on the turning mandrel, you can now do so w/o inducing a lot of runout..since you're only expanding the neck a very small amount.

On the 30BR's, there is a 'lump' that forms at the bottom of the necks after expanding up from 6mm (that used to be the shoulder) that's about .060-.065 in height. I use a spacer setup to allow the bushing to have that much extra room so it doesn't jam into the 'lump'. You can do that by either raising the bushing in the die or spacing the top of the die back to let the bushing float upward. Doesn't take much to lash up something that will work.

Neck bushing size used is .335, but that may be different with the new blue boxed cases, as they have slightly thinner case necks.

Good shootin'. -Al
 
Good points....Do your own research. Don't be intimidated if your results contradict what you have read or heard. Go with what works. If it isn't broke, don't fix it. Nothing is a substitute for practice.
 
FWIW, there was an article in Precision Shooting magazine 3-4 months ago about this with side by side comparisons. The tests showed marked improvement from straighter ammo. Again...FWIW--Mike Ezell
 
I appreciate all the info i truly do. I don't have any idea myself if .004 run shoots as good as no run out. My main thing is to try my very best to produce the best possible cases. One less thing for me to think about i guess. What i am saying is, If there is a way to make perfect brass, then thats the way i want to make them. I don't see one way any more difficult than the other really. It has to be done one way or the other. I have relied on other folks to make my brass for me, but that has to stop. Don't get me wrong, its nice having good folks in your life that like making brass and don't charge me anything to do it, but i see this as part of the hole equation, and i need to learn to do this for myself, plus i know with out a doubt i can do it and do it properly. I am actually very skilled with my hands, i have just been a bit timid of actually doing it. Anyway i always appreciate the info you fellas provide, and i enjoy the conversation and company. I just want to make the best brass i possibly can, thus the reason for the post. thanks again fellas!! Lee
 
Well, you're a proponent Al, and this is a forum where people are free to add personal info, yet I've never seen anyone provide real proof that this matters and that includes you my friend. If there are personal experiments that have contradictory results to my own, where are they? Every time this topic is brought up on this board, the armchair theorists take some kind of defense such as the one you just used and then they tuck tail and disappear. I'm not looking for an argument, just for one of you guys who claim to be "shooters" to stand up and give us some evidence.

I've been a precision shooter and competitor in that arena in one form or another for 15 years. I've built numerous wildcats and tested many "theories" with them. I've bought all the gadgets and gizmos and run all kinds of experiments and not once have I seen a cartridge with .004" or .003" runout not shoot as good as the flatliners or provide any discernable difference that could be solely contributed to the straight case. This includes 6ppc's in registered comp from 100 to 200 yards all the way out to full custom big bores at 2100 yard score shoots. In fact, many of my best aggs and groups were shot with ammo that was .004" out. So I think I have somewhat of a platform to speak from when I say, "zero, zippo, notta".

I would love to see some evidence to the contrary. I really would. That would perhaps justify my expensive purchases to fix this so-called "problem". I have an open mind and love to learn new things. But thus far, I have to say your side has left the plate a bit empty thus far. And I think it's important for shooters reading any of this forum who are just starting out and trying to get info to be presented with all the facts and also to prevent them from wasting valuable learning curve time and hard earned cash on things that they can't fix and things that won't matter anyway. It would be much more beneficial to them and to you (if you compete or plan to) to spend 98% of your time perfecting your technique, keeping your gun in tune, and learning how to read the wind flags. These are the things that really matter. All the other stuff combined might make up the remaining 2%. Might!

Bottom line: be honest with yourself. Run your own experiments and learn from them. Don't just take the popular notion and except it as truth. If they prove out, great. You're ahead of the game. If they don't, you just learned more knowledge for yourself and saved yourself valuable time in the future. The key is being honest with yourself and accepting your results whatever they may be.

Well, I like the way you think in this thread..... and I believe you when you say you've tested as you have.

All's I can say is, you've obviously not read any of my stuff on the subject. I'm not "a proponent" of the common rhetoric about making straight ammunition, in fact I'm one who'll most often jump in to state that you can buy every gadget available and straighten 'til you're blue in the face and see zero gains.

Generally speaking I'm absolutely NOT a proponent of "straight" or "straightened" ammunition..... if you've got room anywhere in the system for .003 or .004 runout the SYSTEM is screwed up.

Generally speaking my way is completely different from all you've read or heard about "making straight ammunition."

In a nutshell I believe in FIT. And linearity. In a nutshell I believe that if you're somehow GETTING runout as listed, .003 or .004 you have a problem. This ammunition can't be "fixed."

My cases show immeasurable runout. More importantly my loaded rounds show immeasurable runout. It took me 20yrs and tens of thousands of dollars to accomplish this repeatably. I now expect it. Require it. But my requirement is very different than the commonly accepted methodology, if my rifle makes crooked brass I go after the SOURCE. I don't waste any time trying to square stuff up after the fact.

Crookedy cases but with good FIT are better than straight but sloppy cases.

And straight cases, straight loads with good FIT are even better.

I could (and am willing to) send you cases fired in many different rifles/barrels and of many different chamberings and let you check them for casehead squareness. And you'll find them to be SQUARE. I was having this same argument on this forum 15yrs ago with none other than the late Skip Otto, a proponent of squaring caseheads on the lathe, when last I measured casehead runout. After I'd found a way to eliminate it, not fix it.

Cases as they come from the factory are all out of square on every dimension. How can they NOT be? They're made on a hammermill! But from this base lump of clay one can well and truly MAKE straight well-fitted cases. If one knows how. Even using a mandrel one can make straight cases. With proper fit.

Poorly fitted and formed cases on the other hand exhibit all of the problems you listed and more....

BTW your list of 4 contributing factors is 'way inadequate. And none of the factors listed address the real issue of fit.

opinionsby


al
 
Thanks Mike. Can you recall what the test guns and calibers were?

No, but I'll see if I can find the issue and let ya know. I can't say that I totally agree with ammo needing to be perfectly straight, but it can't hurt. I've shot them into the same hole with both crooked and straight necks....and missed with both.--Mike
 
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