My Spidah

Pete Wass

Well-known member
Installed the front Spider I bought last winter to the backing plate for my 3 jaw chuck to see if it would work before I bought a new plate for it and it seems to be fine. I used 3 of the 4 holes which I feel will be enough. Three 3/8 bolts should be plenty. Got the ring to run zero using a good test indicator. Should work! Took a good 3" off the stick-out and reduced weight from the four jaw chuck. That shouldn't hurt anything.

Pete
 
When you mount it to a good back plate, make sure you have a balanced setup. Using 3 out of the 4 holes may throw an out of balance vibration at speed.
 
I will do that.

When you mount it to a good back plate, make sure you have a balanced setup. Using 3 out of the 4 holes may throw an out of balance vibration at speed.

I may fill the existing holes, flip it over and drill three new ones before I mount it to a new plate or I guess I could just keep one hole and drill three after I fill the other three, well see. Thanks for thinking of me. Nothing is ever easy,is it?

Pete
 
I may fill the existing holes, flip it over and drill three new ones before I mount it to a new plate or I guess I could just keep one hole and drill three after I fill the other three, well see. Thanks for thinking of me. Nothing is ever easy,is it?

Pete

I wish I could get my lathe to run zero on anything :)
 
Should be easily done with a four jaw chuck. I have made quite a few cherrie cut bullet moulds for friends and it isn't unusual to have to open up the baseband a thou. or two or three depending on individua finished sizes needed. The run out has to be zero when taking a half thousandths cut to increase the size one thousandths and easily done with my four jaw chuck that came with the machine.

Pete I would use all four holes on your Spider and the same as using a four jaw chuck.
 
Pete,

Here is an unsolicited input from a rookie. I found the faceplate a lot easier to mount the Bald Eagle spider to.
 

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what are you doing to the upper in pic #3 ?

Richard

Looks like he's taking a facing cut on area the barrel adapter is clamped in, I'm not an AR guy but I do the same thing when I put an AR together, going to blame it on the kid. LOL
 
what are you doing to the upper in pic #3 ?

Richard

I made the jig out of a ground rod to dial the receiver just for laughs and giggles. I indicated the receiver face. It was not square so I skimmed it a little.

Not sure if it helps the precision at all; I asked Keith S to test fire the upper with our standard mid range (600) ammo. Before he centered the scope he fired this group, first rounds out of the barrel, prone, sling, and 4.5X power scope. Range, 200 yards, POA, center of X ring.

FYI, I only did that one receiver, never done another one since.
 

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I made the jig out of a ground rod to dial the receiver just for laughs and giggles. I indicated the receiver face. It was not square so I skimmed it a little.

Not sure if it helps the precision at all; I asked Keith S to test fire the upper with our standard mid range (600) ammo. Before he centered the scope he fired this group, first rounds out of the barrel, prone, sling, and 4.5X power scope. Range, 200 yards, POA, center of X ring.

FYI, I only did that one receiver, never done another one since.


Nez, is this the one that Keith won with at Perry?
 
Nez, is this the one that Keith won with at Perry?

Unfortunately, not this one. The upper went to a soldier in Puerto Rico. Lee's shot about the same as well, he used it to set a record at Perry. In Houston at one time I watched him in the no sighter match shoot 15/20 Xs in a row at 600 with his upper.
 
Thanks Nez

Pete,

Here is an unsolicited input from a rookie. I found the faceplate a lot easier to mount the Bald Eagle spider to.

My first thought was using the faceplae but thought the O.D. might be cumbersome; don't know why but I'll take another look at it. save me buying another backing plate.

Pete
 
Spindle bearings might need to be re-adjusted as was the case when I got my used lathe and we'll worth looking at if you cannot achieve a zero run-out.
 
I use to have a South Bend

10L. Nice old machine, made in 1944, same year I was made but not born :). I worked in the Machinetool Rebuilding Trade then and could not find any run out in the spindle when I bought it in 1967 nor could I when I sold it in 2017. I only ran it in a shop setting all those years and some years it never got turned on. Had the bed ground and scraped everything in to that around 69 or so, nice old lathe, also converted to the large dials too and the tail stock was lengthened 2" with wipers installed on the tail stock as well.No Run Out!

Sold it because I didn't have room for it and had replaced it with a more modern machine which also has little or NO Run Out. A Taiwanese machine.

Pete
 
I have a 3 jaw and never use it....guess I like using my dial indicators and for me it's just a hobby.

Mort
 
I made a second chuck key for my four jaw chuck that made it more enjoyable and faster for myself to use. I actually enjoy using it more so than the three jaw when I can. It does not close enough to grab onto something small or I would be using it all of the time.
 
Its pretty easy

I have a 3 jaw and never use it....guess I like using my dial indicators and for me it's just a hobby.

Mort

to get a decent 3 jaw chuck to run near zero. Simply turn a few thou off the register of the backing plate and bump the chuck into zero and tighten it up. May not be as good as a Set Tru but it will get ya dern close. It the scroll in one's 3 jaw is worn severely, don't bother.

Pete
 
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Pete,
I hear what you are saying and my three jaw was beyond what I wanted to fool with. The spindle in my small lathe is only 3/4 inch. A lot of the material I use requires 2 to 3 inch stock.

I use to cut the larger stock to length with a hack saw. This allowed me to chuck it and go to work. I can't do much of that anymore, so I chuck the material in the four jaw and using a steady rest I cut off my finished work piece with a parting tool.....much, much easier for me.

When I worked in a machine shop most of the jobs that came in didn't have an exterior surface that was true to the bore or flange. A dial indicator was the only choice.

Wheather the work was done on a large lathe or milling machine, getting it dialed in, in a short period of time was an accomplishment you felt good about.

In my currant situation time isn't an issue (good thing) and I want to see if I still have a little touch.

It's all about ego....mine.

Mort
 
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A friend

Pete,
I hear what you are saying and my three jaw was beyond what I wanted to fool with. The spindle in my small lathe is only 3/4 inch. A lot of the material I use requires 2 to 3 inch stock.

I use to cut the larger stock to length with a hack saw. This allowed me to chuck it and go to work. I can't do much of that anymore, so I chuck the material in the four jaw and using a steady rest I cut off my finished work piece with a parting tool.....much, much easier for me.

When I worked in a machine shop most of the jobs that came in didn't have an exterior surface that was true to the bore or flange. A dial indicator was the only choice.

Wheather the work was done on a large lathe or milling machine, getting it dialed in, in a short period of time was an accomplishment you felt good about.

In my currant situation time isn't an issue (good thing) and I want to see if I still have a little touch.

It's all about ego....mine.

Mort

Who is a life long machinist advised me to use my 4 jaw exclusively so that it became second nature. I have used it a lot and don't struggle zeroing things in. I watch mostly Youtubes for television so I have watched many lessons on using 4 jaw chucks and any other kind of chuck one can think of. I like being able to quickly turn some round thing if I want without going through the zeroing thing though. I also have a set of ER 40 collets for my lathe, which I use as well if I think I should.

Pete
 
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