Muzzle flush pump pics

I finally have my flushing system all put together. I think it turned out pretty good. I am waiting on a rotary union then I will know for sure. Here is a pic! I still need to drill the return line hole in the tank. Lee
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pump

I got the Shurflo - GCCV33V. MSC has it for $542 but I found it on Ebay from a supply place in Michigan for $375. I did see this pump used on several of the flush set ups from a number of people and they chose the version with a Bronze pump body. On the Sureflo sight they say the bronze is to be used with water base liquids and the cast iron is for oil based. I am sure either will work a many have used the bronze one and no compliants but the cast one was $40 less and I figure my chevy oil pump last's for thousands of hours running time so it cant be bad. This pump is supposed to have a pressure relief but we shall see. I like the idea, I'm going to try that as well.
One down side for my flush system is that my Lathe is a Prototrak 16x30 and I have a D1-6 adapter plate with a solid snout on it and a 2" bore in it with my 8 adjusting screws. Rock solid and great to use but my Headstock is so wide the end of a 25" barrel is still in the spindle tube and does not hang out. Every barrel I do has a treaded muzzle so I think I will make an adapter that threads on and has an O-ring seal and about 6" long. I can put the rotary joint in that.
 
The threaded adapter will work, I use something similar. I also use an adapter with a piece of heater hose and hose clamps for unthreaded barrels.
 
We fired up my flush system Saturday night, just to see where we need some attention. A couple problems we encountered where the pump not keeping its prime after shutting it down, and my filtration system. I am hoping a simple 3/8" check valve on the bottom of the intake line will keep fluid in the suck line allowing the pump to prime. Anyone have this issue with your gearhead pump? My filter is rated for 150 PSI but it leaks around the lid. Ill find a different filter.
One other area I didn't think about was what to do with the fluid that had built pressure behind the reamer. I flipped the pump to bypass but when I pulled the reamer from the barrel, I received a small shower. I think ill plum a burp line. lee
 
Put a tee with an adjustable pressure relief bypass then you can fine tune it. I cant remember what pump you have but you can mount it below the tank to always have suction pressure. No need to prime
 
Dusty
the pump I have is a used gear pump. The discription is that this pump can pick up fluid for several feet. Well that doesn't seem to be the case. I ordered a 1/2" foot or check valve. I'll place the valve under the intake line. Hopefully that will hold fluid to the pump. We will see. If not, I will have to do as you sugest.
I will plumb a small valve in so I can bleed the back pressure. That should do it. I hope! Lee
 
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I have a T in mine right before the hose to the barrel. Added a two check valves and two ball valves, one for pressurized cutting fluid, one for air (20-30 psi)to clear barrel after reamer pass for measuring.
 

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What filter housing are you using? Mine leaks around the cap. The housing claims to be 125 psi. My system only ran at 100. When I unscrewed the bottom from the cap I was kinda suprised to see the filter was s only 3/4 full of fluid. It was full before I started. Lee
 
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this is for reaming chambers?

If so do any of you think its over kill? How much oil gets past the grooves per chambering? Just sayin/askin
 
I finally finished mine all up last night. I added a foot/check valve on my intake line and now it primes right up. I fired the system up and it looks like normal run pressure is going to be right around 27PSI . No leaks no drips!!
this weekend I will make the return or catch pans, and that's it. I found some 2" deep magnetic parts trays on flea bay that I might use. Either those or I will get a thin sheet of steel and make a couple from scratch?? I just don't want to be fighting with the chip pan and the stiff hose. Lee
 
My pump came and I picked up a 10 micron filter and mounting bracket from napa. The instructions for he pump say to use a filter on the suction hose. Man, its just one thing after another and now you guys are talking about some check valve so it does not loose the prime. I wish there had been a turn key rig that was laid out clean and simple that was affordable for us non commercial guys. But I will get this done one way or another.
 
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union

Does someone have a part number for the 90 degree rotating union that works best? Got to get one. I don't much like the plastic one I have seen but there is a nice aluminum one with bearings but I cant seem to find it.

thanks,
 
Your pump may pick up just fine. If not contact me and I can put you on the part you need for the intake line. It's only a 7$item. Kim supply. Search foot valve. I've learned quite a bit about all this, so it has all been worth the effort. Jumping in head first you will learn all about the system as well. Good luck.
 
swivel joint

If you go to the local truck shop and ask for a 90* air line swivel and some air line to suit the push in coupling you should be happy unless your chambering at high revs
 
Rustystud told me to look for a Duff-Norton on ebay. I found the $400 retail rotary union made in stainless for $45 new in the box. Great score, thanks Nat.
 
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