Muzzle flush pump pics

H

huntinco

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I don't know why some of them are uploading like that but oh well.
Away after talking with several pump manufactures I decided to go with the 5:1 Graco pump & after some fabrication I was able to mount it on my existing coolant pan while keeping my original pump In place & functional.










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Don't forget, if you are making this a closed loop system, i.e., oil recirculates from the lathe to this tank then back to the injection point, you want a really good filter between this tank and the barrel bore.
 
Jerry, Thanks for the advise and I will keep my eye on it.
The catch pan has 2 screens and I added 2 additional finer screens, a large magnet and the hydraulic filter that my local NAPA guy recommended so it might be over kill. I chambered one up last night on my TL1 and was amazed @ the difference this pump made and the prasure it puts out.


JerrySharrett said:
Don't forget, if you are making this a closed loop system, i.e., oil recirculates from the lathe to this tank then back to the injection point, you want a really good filter between this tank and the barrel bore.
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huntinco said:
Jerry, Thanks for the advise and I will keep my eye on it.
The catch pan has 2 screens and I added 2 additional finer screens, a large magnet and the hydraulic filter that my local NAPA guy recommended so it might be over kill. I chambered one up last night on my TL1 and was amazed @ the difference this pump made and the prasure it puts out.
Click to expand...

The microscopic metallic particles the oil will contain after each use, we call them fines, can really wreck the train if you want a super finish.

These fines get trapped in the reamer bushing and its cutting edges and are not good for this type machining since these fines are vary hard due to the work-hardening they got earlier.
 
Thanks again for the advise.
I checked the filter & it's 21 Microns so I called my buddy who owns the NAPA and he said he selected that because of the extra flow. We see how the 10 flows as that's the smallest they make in a hydraulic filter


JerrySharrett said:
If I were going to run used oil through my barrel and over my reamer I'd want something down about 10 micron or maybe even less.
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huntinco said:
Thanks again for the advise.
I checked the filter & it's 21 Microns so I called my buddy who owns the NAPA and he said he selected that because of the extra flow. We see how the 10 flows as that's the smallest they make in a hydraulic filter
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With the application you are using the pump for slow is not an issue so don't worry about that.
 
I am a little unsure. Will a 10 micron filter have more filtration than say a 1 micron filter, or am I bass aackwards?
 
skeetlee said:
I am a little unsure. Will a 10 micron filter have more filtration than say a 1 micron filter, or am I bass aackwards?
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No, a 1 micron filter would catch smaller particles than a 10...hence less flow. FWIW, 100 microns is about .004", so a 20 micron filter is suppose to catch anything larger than about .0008". That's mighty small by most standards.
 
A micron is one millionth of a meter (0.00003937 inches). By contrast, a human hair is about 100 microns in diameter.

A 10 micron filter would catch particles larger than 0.0003937", a 20 would catch [articles larger that 0.0078".
 
Check with the manufacturer before you filter below 10 micron. To fine a filter can take additives out of your oil. I have a bucket of mobile met needing boosted from spending 2 years circulating through a 5 micron filter. I went to ten micron filters after talking to the manufacturer and then bought new oil.
We strive for perfection and occasionally we over do it.
 
filter size

I have run 8 micron (water filter type) to keep the oil flowing nicely and still filter correctly tried filters less than 1 micron it was a 0.45 micron it would filter out Bacteria however it would not flow worth a darn and pressure would begin to build quickly I never used it to chamber with; just testing to see how fine we could go and pressure build up. However smaller may work with different coolants. Nowadays the way I'm chambering a flush system is not needed; clean, light blow dry and fresh oil ready to go. The flushing system allows you to go faster however I like the fact I'm a little slower without it. I allows me time to remember to check dial-in as I'm moving along.:cool:
 
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I'm using a water filter too. If I had it to do over I'd get a remote mount for a spin on filter and use a ten micron fuel filter. I'm talking a big fuel filter like you see on Cummins powered Dodges with FASS or AIRDOG pumps. Those filters are big enough and cheap enough to get by with one a year and available at most any NAPA or O Reilly's auto parts stores.
 
Sounds like some kind of language-translating software. Like the instructions you sometimes get with a foreign-made product.
F1
 
just getting my flushing sys up and running

I just ordered a Sureflo pump and motor for my system that I am building. Now I need the filter and the 10 or 20 micron fuel filter that screws on and is easy to replace sounds great. I will look in to that. I have a remote Oil filter block that I had plans on useint but it sounds like it engine oil filters will not do? Can someone describe the chamber process for a flush system? I have been doing the peck and clean method and my back is killing me so I am hoping the flush will make it easier and faster. Do I still peck but not fully retract or can I goe to near full depth in one stroke?
Huntinco, What is the part number on the 21 micron filter or if you found a 10 micron? and you said they are hydraulic filters? Maybe they will fit my remote mount block,

thanks

Edit: I see the PN 1553 on the filter in pic#1. I assume that is the 21 micron. I only do 10 or so barrels a year so I bet a smaller filter like this will be fine.
 
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