Model 700 stiff bolt action

With some handiwork you can cut/grind/file the bolt knob down to a nice shank and run a 5/16 die over newly created shank and install a Callahan bolt knob. The std Rem bolt knob leaves a lot to be desired for BR. Of course the longer bolt knob just gives you a lot more leverage to yank the gun out of the bags if you still have a hard lift on a fired case.

Ignore the rest of the foolishness lavished on the bolt in the pic.

rem700Savageconversion.jpg
 
Brodie said:
I filed the notch off the cocking ramp of my bolt this weekend and gave the entre ramp a polish. Helped alot with the stiffness of the bolt. I think the worst part now that you can feel is overcoming the strength of the spring. I have a gretan firing pin spring in it now. Might put the stock spring back in it and see how it is.
Click to expand...

Brodie...You don't need a massive amount of firing pin spring tension...I use an after market spring that I cut to 4 coils longer than the length of the firing pin length with the firing pin removed from the bolt body (shrowd and cocking piece in place)...test fire it and ensure you have sufficient iginition..

Here is a quote from Kelbly's...
"Your rifle will have optimum ignition characteristics and operate easier with a spring tension between 22 and 24 pounds, and .260 to .280" of firing pin fall."
 
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crb .....

You should put a set of wheels on that bolt handle.

- Innovative
 
Lapping the camming surfaces with valve grinding compound seems to do the trick with very stiff Mosin Nagant bolts. Lapping will always provide a more even mating surface than any attempts to grind and polish the surfaces separately.
Sometimes the cam surface of the bolt will look just fine but will actually only be making contact at one edge or the other. The less contact of the surfaces the greater level of spring tension at work on the greatly reduced area of contact.
 
crb ......

Just kidding about your bolt. However, I'd like to see your bolt knob mounted about 5/8" higher (with a slight slant to the rear), and without any trace of the weld showing.

- Innovative
 
Larry,
What weld? I cut and filed the bolt knob into a shank and threaded that. I did leave a shoulder for the knob to tighten against. This gives a smooth professional looking transition. I wanted the knob as long as possible as this gun is only used for benchrest.

I also wanted the knob at right angles to the bore so the feel is the same opening and closing the bolt. An angled bolt knob would look sleeker but I never allow aesthetics to compromise function. I actually prefer a straight bolt handle instead of the Remington dogleg. The dogleg puts the knob farther rearward than is ideal. Angling the bolt knob makes this problem even worse.
 
crb ......

There's no question the leverage is great and very functional design.
 
I removed the barrel Sunday

crb said:
You should pull the bbl so you can closely inspect the locking lug abutments in the receiver. If they are a bit rough I think you can forget having a smooth bolt lift on a fired case.
Click to expand...

The receiver face at the lugs is perfect. No roughness nor galling. Looking good so far.

I'm going to try some different loads with once fired brass and see if a lower powder charge/node will make a difference and still be accurate. I'll do just about anything before I start altering the bolt. With the possible exception of having a bolt handle installed.

Roy
 
Roy ........

Altering the bolt like crb showed in post #8 is a huge improvement. Also lube the bolt cam and the threads in the bolt with a high pressure lubricant, and your bolt lift will be as slick as a greased banana.

- Innovative
 
You will still have issues if the load is too hot. There was also some discussion here about chambers that are 'too' tight at the web of the case.

Eventually I will chamber up a 6mmBeggs bbl for my Viper and then I will be able to see if the Viper will handle loads that cause hard bolt lift in the 40x.
 
If your cases are going to stick, it will happen just above the web. With high pressure loads, this area (the expansion ring) sometimes grips the chamber so tight, that your fired cases need to be broken loose by the camming surface of your bolt.

My Rem 700s all have the bolt slightly altered (as shown by crb in post #8) and they are much improved even when using the original bolt handle. It's important to begin this altered surface where the lifting pressure begins to increase. Go slow and just don't overdo it.

- Innovative
 
It hasn't already been mentioned, check your case length (both overall length and the shoulder/base length) My XR-100 is extremely finicky about case length and even previously fired cases from the same rifle can sneak past the go/no go limit for my action.
 
Funny you should mention case length.

OldPPC said:
It hasn't already been mentioned, check your case length (both overall length and the shoulder/base length) My XR-100 is extremely finicky about case length and even previously fired cases from the same rifle can sneak past the go/no go limit for my action.
Click to expand...

I talked to Don Geraci Sunday at our monthly match in St. Bernard Parish (county). He said to measure case length with the Harrell gauge furnished with my sizing die.

I did this and all my fired cases and resized cases measured 1.457. The fired cases should be a bit longer or the sized cases should be a bit shorter.

I don't know why, but I think (I hope I'm thinking) that I have to reset my sizing die because I seem to only be sizing the web and not setting back the shoulder. Crap.

Tell me I'm wrong.

Roy
 
Roy Allain said:
I talked to Don Geraci Sunday at our monthly match in St. Bernard Parish (county). He said to measure case length with the Harrell gauge furnished with my sizing die.

I did this and all my fired cases and resized cases measured 1.457. The fired cases should be a bit longer or the sized cases should be a bit shorter.

I don't know why, but I think (I hope I'm thinking) that I have to reset my sizing die because I seem to only be sizing the web and not setting back the shoulder. Crap.

Tell me I'm wrong.

Roy
Click to expand...

You're wrong :)

Actually Roy, if your rounds are chambering without force you've got the perfect setup. Your gun will shoot and your cases will last. Only if you're having to heel the bolt closed do you have a problem.

al
 
Sumpin I've noticed

All of my 30 BR chambers seem to allow expasion the area just below the shoulder - case body junction more than any other part of the cases. Is this a normal course of events?
 
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Hey Al

alinwa said:
You're wrong :)

Actually Roy, if your rounds are chambering without force you've got the perfect setup. Your gun will shoot and your cases will last. Only if you're having to heel the bolt closed do you have a problem.al
Click to expand...

========================================================
I agree with that completely Al, but that is not the problem I have. The rounds drop in fine, but (many times), I have to heel the bolt OPEN. Sometimes even hit it hard with the heel of my hand to open the bolt. Needless to say this, upsets the rifle in the bags.

I think I must bump the shoulder .001 or .002 more, because it seems I'm not bumping the shoulder at all. Or I'm not bumping enough and the spring back in the chamber is not enough and it causes the brass to stick in the chamber.

I thought I was shooting to hot, but I usually use 28.5 grs. N133 and that's not too hot.

I'm going to do some work on that tonight and see what I come up with.

I just wish I had a range out my back door to test fire, but I'll have to wait until Monday for that.

Roy
 
Who or what is Dans40x?

PEI Rob said:
Has anyone suggested the bolt timing is poor and to send it to Dans40x?
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and why should I send my bolt to him/her/it/them/whatever. Bob Brackney blueprinted this action and bolt. I don't think it's timing is off.

So there.:p:D

Roy
 
Starting to sound like your chamber's too tight at the base.

IMO it should be at least 5 thou fatter than your brass at the web. Do you heel it open from the bottom of the stroke? Or just have to pop it at the top, when the extraction cam engages.......?

al
 
Roy Allain said:
and why should I send my bolt to him/her/it/them/whatever. Bob Brackney blueprinted this action and bolt. I don't think it's timing is off.

So there.:p:D

Roy
Click to expand...

I was referring to the original poster, model14. I didn't notice the hijack and thought it was model14 with the hard to extract.
 
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