Jewell trigger problem(I think)

adamsgt

adamsgt

Jerry Adams
Yesterday after my first record shot I discovered that the firing pin was going forward as I closed the bolt. I immediately went into stupid mode and recycled the bolt leaving the bullet in the barrel and powder in the action. So much for that match. I don't know squat about Jewell triggers so after coming home I tried to get info on the internet. I didn't find a Jewell company web site but I did find a Jewell trigger manual on what appears to be a Russian web site. I printed that out and will peruse it this afternoon. I don't know if this manual is correct for whatever trigger is in this problem child rifle so I'm asking for all the help I can get. :confused:
 
It needs cleaning more than likely, flush it with lighter fluid or pull it out and flush with brakekleen. Trigger doesn't need to be disassembled to be cleaned but if you use brakekleen it will screw up the finish on the stock.
 
I think it's OK now

Putting lighter fluid from the top or bottom didn't seem to do anything. I got my LV gun took out the bolt and looked to see how the trigger looked compared to the 30BR gun. The only difference that I saw was the firing pin block could not be depressed on the LV gun whereas it was loose and could be pushed down on the 30BR gun. So, in a stroke of incredible brilliance, I pushed the block down and sprayed Remington action cleaner around the block. Waited about thirty seconds, inserted the bolt and the firing pin remained cocked when I close the bolt. :D So, if I'm reading the trigger diagram correctly, the upper lever was not holding the firing pin block in the up position. I haven't yet analysed the relationship of the remaining parts in the trigger but will do so now that it seems to be working again. Phew!
 
adamsgt said:
Putting lighter fluid from the top or bottom didn't seem to do anything. I got my LV gun took out the bolt and looked to see how the trigger looked compared to the 30BR gun. The only difference that I saw was the firing pin block could not be depressed on the LV gun whereas it was loose and could be pushed down on the 30BR gun. So, in a stroke of incredible brilliance, I pushed the block down and sprayed Remington action cleaner around the block. Waited about thirty seconds, inserted the bolt and the firing pin remained cocked when I close the bolt. :D So, if I'm reading the trigger diagram correctly, the upper lever was not holding the firing pin block in the up position. I haven't yet analysed the relationship of the remaining parts in the trigger but will do so now that it seems to be working again. Phew!
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Jerry, if its that dirty, you need to disassemble and clean it.

probably wouldn't hurt to polish the innards and plates while you're in there.
 
Oh man

I hate disassembling stuff. I usually end up with extra parts left over. When I was about 8 years old I decided to take apart a wind up alarm clock. There's a box of parts somewhere that used to be a working alarm clock. But, you're right. Not only do I need to understand how the parts work together but I need to keep them working. I'll just hold off for a few weeks until I get a 30BR barrel on my HV gun. I now have four used benchrest guns and I'll bet they all have Jewell triggers. So it wouldn't hurt to go over all of them once I'm confident that I know what I'm doing.
 
OK..... this is a liddle late and maybe will make liddle sense but TO THE OP, please realize that the Brake Kleen (Acetone/Xylene/tetrachlorethylene/carbon tet/MEK/alcohol/ethanol/methanol) and the lighter fluid (Ronsonol/Zippo/Swan/naptha) accomplish TWO DIFFERENT THINGS!

The pressurized "brake kleen" should be sprayed into the trigger from all angles to flush out HUNKS of stuff as well as to dissolve crud and buildup. It is a solvent.....It leaves the surfaces sqeaky clean, TOO clean. They must be lubricated.

The "lighter fluid" is used as a maintenance item, as a mild solvent and to gently flush out loose stuff AND to lubricate the trigger. This is the only lubrication! The two products ARE NOT interchangeable in their usage, they're NOT equivalent in any way. In fact, if you have to choose only one pick the lighter fluid and use it only. DO NOT be tempted to hose the bugger out with brake kleen and then "lubricate" it with any sort of oil.

If I may be so bold, I'll even say to leave the solvent OUT of the picture...... instead, squirt lighter fluid into every angle, BLOW IT OUT with an airhose (wear those safety glasses) a few times and them run the lighter fluid through and SHAKE it out, just let it dry and that is all....NOTHING more.

it's done

al
 
Jewel Triggers

The most common target trigger out there...... and a good one.....I must have half a dozen on "F" class/BR/silhouette rifles....everyone I`ve put on come with an instruction sheet...
I could mail you one if you send address.
They do come apart pretty easy....and you can clean them up with a "Q" tip and laquer thinner.....not hard to disassemble/reassemble..... I do mine each year.....
I`ve only had 1 fail in 25 yrs..... that was because of a pierced primer....sent it direct to jewel after disassembly and saw busted pawl...back in a week like new...set at 2 oz....No Charge....
Hope this info helps....
bill larson
 
One other thing- if you close the bolt and the pin falls recock it slow. Most times itll catch so you can fire the bullet out instead of draggin powder out. Then you can investigate without stress
 
Hunter said:
What's the recommended cleaning frequency?
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Every now and then.

No seriously, I usually flush mine thoroughly every fall with lighter fluid. Based on Al's post #11 above, after dropping it out of the rifle I just did it with brake cleaner followed by copious amounts of lighter fluid.
 
Almost everytime before I shoot, I put some lighter fluid down through the top.....after a while, you will literally know when you go to the line and haven't done it. Dwight turned me onto doing this several years ago, since then, I have never had a failure to cock.

Hovis
 
According to....

Hunter said:
What's the recommended cleaning frequency?
Click to expand...

According too Arnold himself, (I've shot many matches with him) a half can of lighter fluid every ten years is sufficient. No lubricant of any kind. Most problems occur when a powder kernel gets into the trigger. If flushing does not help, then take it apart. When the screws are removed the plate will come off without any parts falling out. Usually a look see and making sure there is no particles in the trigger is enough. You can call Brian Jewell and he will send you a manual for the trigger.

virg
 
Lighter fluid itself is the cleaner and the lubricant. It is a petroleum byproduct which like diesel and kerosene is an oil itself.
 
virg said:
Most problems occur when a powder kernel gets into the trigger. If flushing does not help, then take it apart. When the screws are removed the plate will come off without any parts falling out.
Click to expand...

What's involved in removing the trigger from a glued-in action? Anything that a neophyte can mess up?
 
trigger

Hunter said:
What's the recommended cleaning frequency?
Click to expand...

May need adjusted. I was at Cactus in March having same problem, then I read instructions, they are as follows from sheet that came with my trigger.

(Cleaning: Flush after each barrel cleaning with lighter fluid. The use of lubricants is not recommended.)

Guess what no more problems
 
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