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RayfromTX
Guest
I need to talk to you about making a gear for an old machine, if that is even possible. I assume as a moderator, that you have access to my email. I would appreciate the help.
jackie schmidt
New member
Ray, I sent you a PM.
Heck, let's talk about it right here. Others might have some ideas to add.........jackie
Heck, let's talk about it right here. Others might have some ideas to add.........jackie
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RayfromTX
Guest
The broken tooth is on a gear that is part of a cluster. Can a broken tooth be built back on to a gear. We have also found the same gear on a shorter cluster. Can the gears be cut off their clusters and the good gear welded on to our cluster? Thanks for the response.
The gear cluster we found is 4" long but the large gear on the end appears to be identical. This gear cluster is used to shift from high to low range independent of the transmission which is in a separate box. Any ideas?
My condolences on the passing of your mother. I continue to miss my mother, 11 years after her passing.
If this needs to move to another area I will let you do that as a moderator. Thanks for the reply. I love old machines.
My condolences on the passing of your mother. I continue to miss my mother, 11 years after her passing.
If this needs to move to another area I will let you do that as a moderator. Thanks for the reply. I love old machines.
jackie schmidt
New member
Not Good
Ray, most gears such as this are made of a specific alloy, usually heat treated to a specific hardness whiles still maintaining a degree of ductility, as in being able to withstand a shock load. Many are simply case hardenned and ground.
Unfortunatly, that renders them unweldable, or at least in the sense that it would last when subjected to normal service.
The warpage, and distortion of other criticle areas would be very difficult to predict. In short, the originol manufacturer allows very little room for "repair". You simply replace the broken part.
You also have to look into what caused the tooth to break in the first place. Any repair, which woyuld by all accounts be weaker, simply would not be up to the task.
If you do have a similiar gear, you can 'adapt" it to the cluster that now has the broken tooth. As you might expect, this is not a job for a novice. It would involve machining the old gear off, them boring and pressing the new gear on, and locking it either with a key, or perhaps finding a really good heliarc man to weld that particular portion.
On your drawing, that gear appears to have some type of ID spline, or perhaps a sycornizing ring. That has to be delt with as well.
I do not make gears, there are shops in Houston that specialize in such things. But what you have is a "specialty item", and the expense of getting a single part made can be prohibitive.
What is the pitch of that gear, and how many teeth? Often you can buy a stock gear made my Boston or Martin that can be adapted.
This is not that uncommon. We have had to have gears made for machines that were manufactured before many of us were born. You just have to get creative..........jackie
Ray, most gears such as this are made of a specific alloy, usually heat treated to a specific hardness whiles still maintaining a degree of ductility, as in being able to withstand a shock load. Many are simply case hardenned and ground.
Unfortunatly, that renders them unweldable, or at least in the sense that it would last when subjected to normal service.
The warpage, and distortion of other criticle areas would be very difficult to predict. In short, the originol manufacturer allows very little room for "repair". You simply replace the broken part.
You also have to look into what caused the tooth to break in the first place. Any repair, which woyuld by all accounts be weaker, simply would not be up to the task.
If you do have a similiar gear, you can 'adapt" it to the cluster that now has the broken tooth. As you might expect, this is not a job for a novice. It would involve machining the old gear off, them boring and pressing the new gear on, and locking it either with a key, or perhaps finding a really good heliarc man to weld that particular portion.
On your drawing, that gear appears to have some type of ID spline, or perhaps a sycornizing ring. That has to be delt with as well.
I do not make gears, there are shops in Houston that specialize in such things. But what you have is a "specialty item", and the expense of getting a single part made can be prohibitive.
What is the pitch of that gear, and how many teeth? Often you can buy a stock gear made my Boston or Martin that can be adapted.
This is not that uncommon. We have had to have gears made for machines that were manufactured before many of us were born. You just have to get creative..........jackie
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RayfromTX
Guest
Thanks Jackie-
I figured welding wouldn't work for the reason you stated. The inside of the gear also has teeth for another gear to lock into when the shift is made. That means a stock gear is out of the question. Would that also preclude most methods of securing it to the cluster? It seems as if we might be able to create shoulders and tenons on the part outside the actual gear and then connect them with a pin. Would a pin shear off or could it work? If the machine work could be done in the 600$ range it would be reasonable to pursue. Am I dreaming? The machine operates as is and I used it for two full days this weekend and am the new hero of the neighborhood. It would be great to get low range back so I could creep with the engine revved up to enable quicker response of my hydraulics. Thanks
Ray Moore
I figured welding wouldn't work for the reason you stated. The inside of the gear also has teeth for another gear to lock into when the shift is made. That means a stock gear is out of the question. Would that also preclude most methods of securing it to the cluster? It seems as if we might be able to create shoulders and tenons on the part outside the actual gear and then connect them with a pin. Would a pin shear off or could it work? If the machine work could be done in the 600$ range it would be reasonable to pursue. Am I dreaming? The machine operates as is and I used it for two full days this weekend and am the new hero of the neighborhood. It would be great to get low range back so I could creep with the engine revved up to enable quicker response of my hydraulics. Thanks
Ray Moore