Jackie chambering a Barrel (Pictures)

Awesome

Jackie. Totally Awesome.:D:D Thanks for posting those pics Gary.:D:D

I always wanted to see pics of how it is done or actually see it in person.

Out of curiosity lets say you sit down and chamber and fit a barrel from start to finish how much time has elapsed?

Calvin
 
Jackie!

Thanks for taking the time to share this with us this post and previous info.

I only have one question.

When reaming, your using a live center and combination wrench. I've been doing that for years with tapping in a lathe, but, your dead center is likely not exactly aligned (up and down at least)

In your opinion and experience, is floating reamer holders one of those things that really doesn't make that much difference in the real world? The one I have is a PITA.

Ben
 
Good stuff.....

Jackie, I was always under the impression that a 4 jaw chuck was the only way to go for barrel work, but you obviously use a 3 jaw chuck. Could you elaborate a bit on this subject?
Thanks, Bryan
 
bryan said:
Jackie, I was always under the impression that a 4 jaw chuck was the only way to go for barrel work, but you obviously use a 3 jaw chuck. Could you elaborate a bit on this subject?
Thanks, Bryan
Click to expand...

He answered this already. It is a buck chuck, not a regular 3 jaw.

There is another one I've used called accutru. The socket screws on the side allow adjustment of the entire chuck on a back plate.

In my opinion, this is superior to a 4 jaw, since you can set the clamping force by tightening the jaws, then adjust the entire chuck without changing the clamping force.
 
Ben

I am fortunate that my shop that Pratt & Whitney Lathe. Unless you ever run a machine of that quality, you have no idea of the difference between it and what most hobbyist have to settle for.

I periodically check the the tailstock alignment. You do not do this with an indicator. I have a #3 morse taper with a precision ground 1 inch end on it. What I do is chuck up a piece, and bore a 1.001 diameter hole in it. I then place the morse taper piece I described earlier in the tailstock, and lock it down. I then carefully adjust the level of the lathe and the side to side of the tailstock go in and out with no bind. As a note, I haven't had to move it in quite some time.Of course, that lathe is sitting on 24 inches of reinforced concrete.

Also, take note of the turning tool and threading tool I use. Great for small close work such as this..........jackie
 
Good job. Questions for Jackie.

This was very easy to follow and understand. I've asked Jackie enough questions over time that I eventually came to understand his method.

I do have a couple of questions on the tooling.

Picture #20: Shape of the boring bar
I understand setting the compound angle to match the body taper but notice the leading edge of the bar is ground at an interesting angle. Is this angle ground to be close to the reamer shoulder angle ?

Picture #38: Cone measuring tool
My only experience with coned breeches has been for the Viper action--29º per the Stiller drawings. How do you use such a tool ? What are the parameters for making this tool ?

This series of pictures and descriptions should be a big help to many.

Thanks.

A. Weldy
 
jackie schmidt said:
I am fortunate that my shop that Pratt & Whitney Lathe. Unless you ever run a machine of that quality, you have no idea of the difference between it and what most hobbyist have to settle for.

I periodically check the the tailstock alignment. You do not do this with an indicator. I have a #3 morse taper with a precision ground 1 inch end on it. What I do is chuck up a piece, and bore a 1.001 diameter hole in it. I then place the morse taper piece I described earlier in the tailstock, and lock it down. I then carefully adjust the level of the lathe and the side to side of the tailstock go in and out with no bind. As a note, I haven't had to move it in quite some time.Of course, that lathe is sitting on 24 inches of reinforced concrete.

Also, take note of the turning tool and threading tool I use. Great for small close work such as this..........jackie
Click to expand...


I've never run a Pratt and Whitney lathe....my father did work for them in the mid 60's, and he has used many of their machines and bragged about them.

Bill Morrison, up in bradford Maine makes barrels with Pratt and Whitney machines. They are something to see. I asked him about 416R and he just growled at me. He uses 4140 from a pile he bough from Timken many years ago. He's quite a character.

The pic is not very good, but you can see the old Pratt and Whitney machines behind him.

http://www.trcmaine.org/headlines/article.php?num=967


Lathes I've operated and quite liked are Leblonde, Rockwell, Monarch, Clausing and Mori seiki....
 
Because we love ya...

Tuck that shirt in and button it up!
BV
 
Thanks guys!!

It was very nice of you guys to take the time to do this, i appreciate it.

I was going to make a piece the same size of the bbl of my tail stock for alignment, never thought to bore a hole and make it .001 over for a slip fit, thanks!
joe
 
Weldy

The angle on the tool is 30 degrees, the same as a PPC and BR, which is about the only thing I mess with.

The cone gage is used in conjunction with that sleeve you see in the other pictures, (#28). What I do when I get a new action is ascertain what the measurement is supposed to be, and record it. That way I can just duplicate it on subsequent barrels. The little fit on the cone gage is a few thousanths smaller than the big end of the chamber, just helps center it.

Everything is referenced off of the shoulder by way of that sleeve. For instance, when I insert the headspace gage, I slip that sleeve over the tenon, and I use the depth mics to get the correct dimension, which I have recorded. Once again, this something I do with each new action I buy.

Of course, if I have a barrel offof that action, I can just take all ofthe dimensions from that barrel, and duplicate them........jackie
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the reply Jackie

Good machinists always seem to come up with clever ways to get the job done.

After watching a good friend, a retired machinist, do barrel work, I realized that this was child's play to him----but not to me. Its getting easier for me though.

Thanks again.

A. Weldy
 
I'm a beginner and still collecting what I hope is all the right stuff. Because of this post I realized that my lathe came with a buck chuck:D, & every time I see someone's chambering process I start thinking all over again:confused:. If any of you really experienced guys are interested I would love to trade you a weeks worth of your knowledge for a mule deer, elk, whitetail or antelope hunt. You can even pick the state Utah Montana or Wyoming
Thanks you guys for this post!!!
Justin
http://www.thehuntingcompany.com
jrichins@thehuntingcompany.com
435-655-5484
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Butch are you going to offer gunsmithing 101,eh?

Butch you could teach gunsmithing, your wife could teach bass fishing and your grandsons teach deer hunting. I could get it all in a one stop program.

I would love to hunt with one of those Spanish mausers you customized.

I know you are going to say it is priceless. My mother said the same thing about education.

Nat
 
huntinco said:
. If any of you really experienced guys are interested I would love to trade you a weeks worth of your knowledge for a mule deer, elk, whitetail or antelope hunt. You can even pick the state Utah Montana or Wyoming
Thanks you guys for this post!!!
Justin
http://www.thehuntingcompany.com
jrichins@thehuntingcompany.com
435-655-5484
Click to expand...
Justin, don't ever make an offer like that on a site that Tooley reads. He keeps a long-cab F350 diesel loaded just in case someone ever did make an offer like that. Ever. Ever.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top