Jackie chambering a Barrel (Pictures)

[Gary Walters]

Jackie will add commentary later. Please be patient. Uploading will take quite some time for 37 pictures. Thanks.

GW

#1 Indicating muzzle, chamber end is supported in headstock by alignment ring

#2 Mitutoyo Indicator

#3 Me and our Pratt & Whitney Tool Room Lathe

#4 Turning fit for tuner, .900 2 inches long

 

[Gary Walters]

Continued

#5 Cutting crown. Notice small end turned for alignment ring

#6 Cutting Crown

#7 "Breaking Edge" with 600 grit emory paper. Run lathe forward, then reverse

#8 Finished crown

 

[Gary Walters]

Continued

#9 Cutting thread for tuner, (.900, 36 tpi)

#10 Checking tuner fit

#11 (Sorry out of focus) Finished muzzle end

#12 Alignment ring installed

 

[Gary Walters]

Continued

#13 Barrel turned around, roughing-out tenon fit

#14 Truing for initial rough drilling

#15 Ready to drill. Notice drill has 30 degree end ground

#16 Drilling chamber

 

[Gary Walters]

Continued

#17 Chamber rough drilled

#18 Indicator

#19 Indicator inserted all the way in, in order to dial-in throat area

#20 Boring tool

 

[Gary Walters]

Continued

#21 Boring chamber end with compound set at correct taper

#22 Same as 21

#23 Final reaming, reamer only has about .003 metal to remove

#24 Reamer in all the way

 

[Gary Walters]

Continued

#25 Headspace gauge just past flush

#26 Final inspection with indicator

#27 Taking final cut on tenon

#28 Checking headspace

 

[Gary Walters]

Jackie - If you want larger pictures, let me know

#29 Measuring headspace with depth mics

#30 Finishing final headspace dimensions by cutting shoulder

#31 Cutting cone

#32 Finished cone and shoulder

 

[Gary Walters]

Continued with smaller pictures

#33 Threading tenon

#34 More threading

#35 Using "triangles" to measure pitch diameter of thread

#36 Finished tenon

 

[Gary Walters]

Two More - Thanks Jackie for Sharing Your Knowledge

#37 Polishing barrel OD with Scotch Brite

#38 Simple tools used for arriving at correct headspace and cone dimensions

 

[jackie schmidt]

Expaining Pictures

1..Indicating muzzle, chamber end is supported in headstock by alignment ring

2..Mitutoyo Indicator

3..Me and our Pratt & Whitney Tool Room Lathe.

4..Turning fit for tuner, .900 2 inches long.

5..Cutting Crown. Notice small end turned for alignment ring.

6..Cutting Crown.

7.."Breaking Edge" with 600 grit emory paper. Run lathe forward, then reverse.

8..Finished Crown

9..Cutting thread for tuner. (.900, 36 tpi).

10..Checking Tuner fit.

11..Finished muzzle end.

12..Alignment ring installed.

13..Barrel turned around, roughing out tenon fit.

14..Truing forinitial rough drilling.

15..Ready to drill. Notice drill has 30 degree end ground.

16..Drilling Chamber

17..Chaber end rough drilled..

18..Indicator.

19..Indicator inserted all the way in in order to dial in throat area.

20. Boring tool.

21..Boring Chamber end with compoud set at correct taper.

22..Same as 21.

23..Final reaming, reamer only has about .003 metal to remove.

24..Reamer in all the way.

25..Headspace gage just past flush.

26..Final inspection with indicator.

27..Taking final cut on tenon..

28..Checking headspace.

29..Measuring headspace with depth mics.

30..finishing final headspace dimension by cutting shoulder.

31..cutting cone.

32..Finished coneand shoulder.

33..Threading Tenon.

34..More Threading.

35. Using thread "triangles" to measure Pitch Diameter of thread.

36..Finished tenon.

37..Polishing barrel OD with Scotch Brite.

38..Simpletools used for arriving at correct Headspace and Cone Dimensions.

..............jackie

 

[Hal]

Thanks Gary and Jackie for taking the time and trouble to post your barreling process.
It sure is nice to "SEE" how its done and what your talking about.

Hal

 

[Dennis Sorensen]

This is great to "see".

It is also worth while to save as a blog...which is very easy to do... then anytime in the future it is available for easy access without excessive searching.

 

[frwillia]

Very interesting. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Thanks
Fitch

 

[Roger rodbolt]

Thanks Jackie, I too appreciate the pictures and all your input on machine work.
I'm guessing that you finished that barrel in less time then I took to download the pic's on dial-up....

 

[RoyB]

NICE!...........

Thanks for taking the time............

I sure hope that lathe is large enough for barrel work.........

A couple of questions:

How do you support and indicate the muzzle end while chambering?

I see the three jaws resting right on the barrel without some type of copper ring to allow the barrel to "move" with the muzzle being indicated.

Does that three jaw have independently movable jaws?

Thanks.............

 

[alinwa]

HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO US!!!!!


youfriggin'ROCK Jackie!


Thank you


al

 

[mike in co]

part of an answer for jackie...

there is a small dia turned on the muzzle end, and round spacer pushed over, and the headstock has been linebored for the round spacer...( cause i listen when jackie speaks)

mike

 

[jackie schmidt]

Roy,

Mike answered the first part, as for the chuck, that is a "Buck" chuck, after you set the barrel in the 3-jaw, you can adjust the entire chuck with four screws. Picture 14 shows this.

As for my not using copper pieces, that is the beauty of using the ring on the other end. It allows the barrel to "pivot", while holding it true, making it vitually impossible to place the barrel in deflection.


That is one thing you have to guard against when using a spider, If you tighten the screws too tight, there is the possibility that you can actually flex the barrel instead when trying to move it on one end or the other. Most good craftsmen know this and learn how to avoid it, mainly with some sort of soft jaw.

One thing I really like about this method of chambering is I can set a barrel back up very quickly, exactly as it was originolly, in order to do set-backs,which I doquite frequently........jackie

 

[244-40x]

another thanks to you guys, this is great to see for someone who hasn't seen the process before. very educational. good job.