Interesting day in the City:

I don't know, me

Roy Allain said:
What kind are they? I would buy some to bake and do the cooking. Who owns them? Do they take up much room or eat anything other than bananas?:D

Rooah
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I didn't ask any questions other than 1. Do you have Rye bread and 2. Can you slice it. They wear black robes is al I know. I would think them robes would get drafty in the Hard weather, no?
 
Daily Telegraph?

Did you know that the telephone has been invented?:D

I think the telegraph went the way of steam engines. Oh, wait. They still use 'em in England. Sorry.

Roy, I think
 
Pete,
The older small Southbend lathes have a thin phenolic washer on the spindle outboard of the rear spindle bearing. This phenolic washer acts as a end play adjustment thrust bearing against the back of the rear spindle bearing to adjust the fore and aft play in the spindle. Outboard of this washer on the spindle is a ring nut with a clamping screw in it to lock the nut once spindle play is adjusted properly. These phenolic washers are notorious for soaking oil and swelling slightly, also a little bit too snug and they generate heat and expand. When this happens, you can not get the spindle to run at its highest speed. The solution is to loosen the screw and back the adjusting nut counter clockwise just a tiny little bit, about 1/8" to 1/4" of distance radially at the slot in the nut the clamp screw is located, and then try it. It doesn't take much for this phenolic washer to act like a disk brake and it will stop a 1/2 hp motor on the highest speed range. The nut should be adjusted to be just pressing the phenolic to the bearing but not tight enough to generate more than barely noticeable heat in the rear bearing when the spindle is turning at its highest speed for long periods of time.

Also, be sure you are using the correct spindle oil, the Southbend requires a light weight machine spindle oil (Saybolt viscosity 100) and that some of this oil leaks out the rear bearing to lubricate the phenolic washer...

Happy Shooting,
Mitch & Shadow...
 
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ShadowChaser said:
Pete,
The older small Southbend lathes have a thin phenolic washer on the spindle outboard of the rear spindle bearing. This phenolic washer acts as a end play adjustment thrust bearing against the back of the rear spindle bearing to adjust the fore and aft play in the spindle. Outboard of this washer on the spindle is a ring nut with a clamping screw in it to lock the nut once spindle play is adjusted properly. These phenolic washers are notorious for soaking oil and swelling slightly, also a little bit too snug and they generate heat and expand. When this happens, you can not get the spindle to run at its highest speed. The solution is to loosen the screw and back the adjusting nut counter clockwise just a tiny little bit, about 1/8" to 1/4" of distance radially at the slot in the nut the clamp screw is located, and then try it. It doesn't take much for this phenolic washer to act like a disk brake and it will stop a 1/2 hp motor on the highest speed range. The nut should be adjusted to be just pressing the phenolic to the bearing but not tight enough to generate more than barely noticeable heat in the rear bearing when the spindle is turning at its highest speed for long periods of time.

Also, be sure you are using the correct spindle oil, the Southbend requires a light weight machine spindle oil (Saybolt viscosity 100) and that some of this oil leaks out the rear bearing to lubricate the phenolic washer...

Happy Shooting,
Mitch & Shadow...
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Say, this is an interesting and informative answer :)

al
 
Thank You!

ShadowChaser said:
Pete,
The older small Southbend lathes have a thin phenolic washer on the spindle outboard of the rear spindle bearing. This phenolic washer acts as a end play adjustment thrust bearing against the back of the rear spindle bearing to adjust the fore and aft play in the spindle. Outboard of this washer on the spindle is a ring nut with a clamping screw in it to lock the nut once spindle play is adjusted properly. These phenolic washers are notorious for soaking oil and swelling slightly, also a little bit too snug and they generate heat and expand. When this happens, you can not get the spindle to run at its highest speed. The solution is to loosen the screw and back the adjusting nut counter clockwise just a tiny little bit, about 1/8" to 1/4" of distance radially at the slot in the nut the clamp screw is located, and then try it. It doesn't take much for this phenolic washer to act like a disk brake and it will stop a 1/2 hp motor on the highest speed range. The nut should be adjusted to be just pressing the phenolic to the bearing but not tight enough to generate more than barely noticeable heat in the rear bearing when the spindle is turning at its highest speed for long periods of time.

Also, be sure you are using the correct spindle oil, the Southbend requires a light weight machine spindle oil (Saybolt viscosity 100) and that some of this oil leaks out the rear bearing to lubricate the phenolic washer...

Happy Shooting,
Mitch & Shadow...
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I know exactly the washer you are talking about. I can easily check it out. I have a Spider I made aft of that nut ypu spoke of. Perhaps that is causing some binding; will check it out!

I appreciate your posting this. I was kinda getting tired of hearing "AW, yer belts are slippin"! I wonder if people truly thing others are really that stupid. :rolleyes:
 
Pete Wass said:
I appreciate your posting this. I was kinda getting tired of hearing "AW, yer belts are slippin"! I wonder if people truly thing others are really that stupid. :rolleyes:
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I thought my belts were slippin one time, turns out my suspenders were too loose! :D
 
Hey Pete,
Are you running the machine with the bull gear lock pin engaged or the back gear? I see you mentioned that it will cut, but really slow. Since you haven't run the lathe in a long time I'm wondering if maybe you're overlooking the gearing. Make sure the countershaft is disengaged (flip the lever away from you as I remember), rotate the large gear until you see the pin sticking out of the side, press on the pin while rotating the rest of the shaft until the pin finds the mating hole and engages.
If you are already aware of this, don't lump my reply in with the loose belt comments.............It just sounds to me like the back gear is engaged.

Dave
 
Dave Short said:
Hey Pete,
Are you running the machine with the bull gear lock pin engaged or the back gear? I see you mentioned that it will cut, but really slow. Since you haven't run the lathe in a long time I'm wondering if maybe you're overlooking the gearing. Make sure the countershaft is disengaged (flip the lever away from you as I remember), rotate the large gear until you see the pin sticking out of the side, press on the pin while rotating the rest of the shaft until the pin finds the mating hole and engages.
If you are already aware of this, don't lump my reply in with the loose belt comments.............It just sounds to me like the back gear is engaged.

Dave
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Mornin Dave,

No, the back gear is not engaged . It is certainly worth mentioning though. I would guess the spindle speed is at about 100 rpms. I am thinking the thrust washer's swelling may be the issue, I hope so anyway.

I haven't given up on the motor being defective as the fellow I took it to did no measurements of anything. He simply applied power to it and said it was ok by virtue of it running. I am also thinking that a more powerful motor wouldn't hurt anything. Probably I will go ahead and buy one and give that a go.

Thanks for your help,

pete
 
Pete:

Listen to Dave Short...he's savvy dude. :) Life is better with your back gear disengaged. Or was that with your backfield in motion? :confused:

I forget.............:D -Al
 
Pete,

Which of the 10" Southbends is yours? Does it have a 1 3/8" hole through the spindle or the smaller 13/16" dia hole spindle? a 3 step or a 4 step cone pully?

(13/16" hole spindle = 10-K, 1 3/8" = 10" Heavy)


In high range, on the smallest step of the spindle cone pulley, that should turn at least 1200-1475 rpm depending on size of the motor pulley and number of steps on the cone pulleys. With back gear disengaged, slowest spindle speed should be 240 - 285rpm. (info from Southbend manual)

If its the 10" heavy with the 1 3/8" hole through the spindle, a bigger motor (1 hp 1725 rpm) would probably be a good idea. (Southbend recommends at least a 1 hp motor for the 10" Heavy model)

If its the light 10" Southbend 10K with a 13/16" hole spindle (later model of the 9" Workshop Model A), then Southbend recommends and shipped them with a 1/2 hp 1725 rpm motor...

If you are only getting 100 rpm or so with the back gear disengaged, something is definitely wrong...

Happy shooting,
Mitch & Shadow...
 
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Pete,

Is this a single speed, or a two speed motor? If two speed, is it wired to the high speed winding?

Can you hold the cone still, and still turn the spindle by hand?


Jim
 
The drive motor on my 9" SB doesn't have different speeds, that's done through the cone pulleys, but it does reverse.
 
Pete,
One would think the motor ought to be laboring pretty hard if there is enough drag on the spindle to hold it as slow as it is running. If the motor isn't getting hot and howling, growling, snarling, etc. it sounds like it is either toast or possibly wired wrong as the wildly famous Jim Wooten suggests.

Dave

P.S. HI JIM!
 
ShadowChaser said:
Pete,

Which of the 10" Southbends is yours? Does it have a 1 3/8" hole through the spindle or the smaller 13/16" dia hole spindle? a 3 step or a 4 step cone pully?

(13/16" hole spindle = 10-K, 1 3/8" = 10" Heavy)


In high range, on the smallest step of the spindle cone pulley, that should turn at least 1200-1475 rpm depending on size of the motor pulley and number of steps on the cone pulleys. With back gear disengaged, slowest spindle speed should be 240 - 285rpm. (info from Southbend manual)

If its the 10" heavy with the 1 3/8" hole through the spindle, a bigger motor (1 hp 1725 rpm) would probably be a good idea. (Southbend recommends at least a 1 hp motor for the 10" Heavy model)

If its the light 10" Southbend 10K with a 13/16" hole spindle (later model of the 9" Workshop Model A), then Southbend recommends and shipped them with a 1/2 hp 1725 rpm motor...

If you are only getting 100 rpm or so with the back gear disengaged, something is definitely wrong...

Happy shooting,
Mitch & Shadow...
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My SB is a Heavy 10 with the 1- 3/8 hole in the spindle. It is a Toolroom lathe with a short bed. The spindle turns freely by hand as does the shaft that the motor drives. The more I think about this the more I become convinced the motor I had on it is not big enough.

When I bought the lathe it had a 1/3 HP motor on it. It would stall out easily. I bought a Sears 1/2 hP motor some 40 years ago and it seemed to work fine.

Long periods of time have elapse between my use of the lathe. I guess I got complacent with the "Single Speed" over time and it wasn't until I got a Micro Mini lathe, which I use on my kitchen counter top, that I reaized I should be able to change the speed on the SB and the spindle should go faster.

In another life, I was a mechanic and worked at rebuilding a repairing these kind of machines as I use to my Autos, motorcycles and Snowmobiles.

Use it or loose it; For sure. I seem to have forgotten everything I ever knew about repairing things. In the past I could have easily figured out why the Lathe wouldn't function as it should but now, I feel totally ignorant about it. it isn't a pleasant feeling :(.
 
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Dave Short said:
Pete,
One would think the motor ought to be laboring pretty hard if there is enough drag on the spindle to hold it as slow as it is running. If the motor isn't getting hot and howling, growling, snarling, etc. it sounds like it is either toast or possibly wired wrong as the wildly famous Jim Wooten suggests.

Dave

P.S. HI JIM!
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And HI to you as well "Dangerous Dave" :p:D. Yep, when I was putting a VFD on my Heavy 10 (no 3 phase 220 in my shop), I had an "electrician" "help" with the wiring. It took me a while to realize why it was in "molasses mode", and I was seriously wondering if the motor was toast as well (1 hp two speed by the Louis Allis Company). Then I found that he had wired to the low speed winding :rolleyes:.

Since that discovery I have been very happy with the VFD. Talk about LOW speed when I want it, and high speed when needed, with much less belt moving ;):). I just keep an eye on motor speed, as I don't want to overheat or overload it.

Jim
 
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