HV barrel on Cobra/BRX for LV

JonathanK

New member
I have a Cobra DP screwed and glued to a BRX stock with a Jewel trigger and a Krieger LV barrel(my gunsmith kept it fat as possible) and a Weaver T36 scope that weighs 10lb.7oz. I have a Krieger HV 6mm barrel and was wondering if there is any way I can make light varmint weight with it without cutting it so short that accuracy would suffer.
Thanks,
Jonathan
 
Jonathan

Many Benchrest Shooters will tell you that some of the more accurate barrels they had were less than 19 inches.

In short, the length of a barrel has little to do with it's accuracy potential.

That being said, the only way you can reduce the weight of the blank is to cut more of the straight off, and let the length be made up un the muzzle end. I do this to LV Blanks in order to get the weight down to 76 ounces at 21 inches.

That HV blank is pretty fat all the way down. What you can do is take your current LV barrel, and measure it at a specific spot on the profile, say 10 inches up from the muzzle.. Then, see if you can find that spot on the HV blank, with still enough on each end to make a decent barrel.

If your Rifle is dead on weight now, it is difficult to use a Krieger HV and get anything more than 19 inches length.

But, if the Gunsmith used as much of the big end, (straight), of your LV as he did, and still made weight, that means it probably tops 85 ounces. You might get lucky...........jackie
 
Thanks again Jackie for the great info

Ill do some weighing and measuring and see what I can come up with.
 
Or you can flute the barrel. Being a cut rifled barrel, this should not affect performance.
 
Sounds like all you need is to loose 1 ounce.

You can change from the Weaver scope to an old Leupold -- 2 ounces right there.

As has been pointed out, you can flute the barrel.

You can get another barrel, either an LV, or if you favor stiffness, a Hunter taper cut short -- cut short on the thin end. That's about as stiff as you can get with a 10.5 gun. Or just an LV, cut to make weight.

Having more than one barrel is something you need to get use to anyway. If the current one is hot, you likely aren't going to want to risk a change by fluting it. If it's not hot, why do you want to mess with it anyway? Make it into a small-match barrel? At some point, most of us wind up with several barrels at any given time, for good reasons.
 
Yes sir, about an ounce under now

with a LV barrel at 22" with most of the length cut off of the small end. After measuring it looks as though I can get the same diameter at both ends, but the contour will likely be a little different. Im still trying to figure out the weight difference, and hopefully it can be made up by shaving an inch or two if need be.
Jonathan K
 
I believe he is one ounce under with the current LV profile barrel..........jackie
Ouch. I'm trying to remember if I made these kind of mistakes when I was younger. But I can't.

My other excuse is that I spend all evening like the rest of the world, on a base 10 system. Days, I use a base 12 system. I've always found base 8 systems a problem.

* * *

By the way, making weight is binary. Either you do, or you don't. More interesting is the *how* of the barrel. "Stiff" and "fat" aren't exactly the same thing. You could go to Nevada & survey a portion of the entertainment industry . . . verbally, of course . . .

More relevant is Dan Lilja's site mentioned earlier. Relevant too is rifle balance. Also possibly relevant is ease of tuning.

* * *

Real big aside: On tuning, I've always wondered if the finicky nature of the PPC has to do with the powders we use, or the usual barrel profile. A barrel is a tube, with a (usually) varying o.d. and a constant i.d. Obviously wall thickness varies with the o.d. Now, could the ease of tuning of the .30 BRs come from these tube properties, which will effect the harmonics? What would happen if you scaled a 6mm barrel to have the same wall thickness as a .30? The .30 PPC doesn't given too many clues, as the number of suitable powders is small, but it is *some* evidence.

* * *

Anyway, the point is that simply making weight is only a constraint, there are other considerations.
 
You make a great point

which raises another question, being a Cobra action (.5 in. shorter than most) is the pivot point always the distance in front of the action?
 
which raises another question, being a Cobra action (.5 in. shorter than most) is the pivot point always the distance in front of the action?
I don't think anyone knows, for sure.

I have experience with 10-15 rifles, five or so different front and rear bags, (and these not switched as pairs), 5 or so different rests/tops, and innumerable barrels. But I've never at down and thoroughly tested how a rifle "rides the bags", and don't know of anyone who has done so definitively. It would be a long & expensive study. As far as I know, all any of us have are "impressions" about what works.

I'll tell one story. I had a Kelbly-built rifle with the built in weight system. That is, an LV rifle with about a 2 pound weight you could add to the butt for shooting HV.

Now conventional wisdom says this isn't the way to go, all you get is a butt-heavy rifle. What I found was if I moved the rifle forward on the front rest -- pretty far -- the weight balance between front and rear was restored. Here is the kicker: it shot better in the "HV" configuration, where the front rest was closer to the action.

Aside from absolute position of the rests, sandbags themselves add considerable variables to how a rifle groups. There probably is an ideal, but I know of no one who has tested all the possibilities -- fill, position, sand edge, and on & on.

The same applies to barrel stiffness. Is it stiffness per se we want, or mass? The two don't have to come together. And are we after "stiffness" when looking at the barrel as a single object, or does "location" matter - i.e., is stiff at the muzzle more important?

For example, if you use a straight 5 inches of 1.25 at the rear of a barrel, then use a Hunter taper to the muzzle, that barrel will be stiffer than a barrel of the same weight using a typical LV profile.

But a number of people have accepted a loss of stiffness of the whole barrel to put a tuner on the muzzle, and they shoot fine. They even shoot fine outside the "tunability the tuner imparts, perhaps in part because the extra mass at the muzzle cuts down on muzzle movement.

There are also the tubed/tensioned barrel rifles I and others have used. With 1,000 yard Heavy Guns, we seem to be up to the point where we can write a cookbook on making an accurate rifle. But the machining costs are considerable if you don't do your own work, and the "recipe" only works for rifles weighing 50 pounds or more. The "lighter" versions have had mixed success, and we don't know why. Significant though is the barrels themselves in these rifles are quite light compared to conventional wisdom. Anyway, the point is "stiffness" probably isn't the simple notion it may seem at first.

Whatever you decide, good luck to you.

Charles
 
thanks for all the input

I think I am safe with HV barrel since the old LV barrel weighs 88 oz. at 22 in. The rifle minus the barrel is 79 oz. and I measure the same diameters on the HV barrel as the old LV. and I should have 3 in. of barrel just in case.:)
Jonathan K
 
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