Gluing and screwing and torque settings and such

T

tricrown

Guest
Why do I want to both glue and screw my BR action in?

How much torque do you keep on the action screws?

Should it be pillared first?

Do you torque the action screws down during the glue-in?
 
Bill, I "screwed and glued' both of my 30BR's, I did pillar both first.

I use just a very light torque on the screws. I first glued the action in, with release agent on the screws. After everything sets, I tighten the screws down just a little. In all honesty, they are just a added safety precaution, I doubt they were even needed, as I have never had a glue in come loose.

Look at it this way, if the glue in did loosen, it would then become a perfect bedding job with the action screws tightenned down.............jackie
 
I just had this subject in mind and have a question. I am doing a new build with a panda,HV barrel and a Shehane ST 1000 stock. I would like to have it pillar beded only. My question is, would it be wise to pillar bed if my action does not have a recoil lug? Will the thick Panda tang be sufficient to act as a recoil lug for a 6 dasher?
 
With so little torque, are pillars a waste with a glue in?
 
I guess I see this differently..... I would not use the screws for the gluing-in I would use gravity alone or a light wrap of surgical tubing.

After it's all done I'd insert the screws, oiled, and snug them up to "tight using a screwdriver handle."

al
 
A long time ago, at Visalia, I was asking a small group of slightly experienced shooters (Ocock, Thornbury, and Six) the old pillar bedding vs. pillar bedding question, when Lee chimed in "both". That surprised me. I believe that Lee was talking about doing a full pillar bedding job, then gluing and then torquing, just as if it was not glued. Lee was one of the pioneers in the production of fiberglass socks, and he built stocks, and stocked rifles for some of the top shooters, as well as for himself. If he thought that doing both has merit. It probably does. My thought is that when you glue, your are only attached to one side of the stock, and that by adding pillars, the connection may be improved, especially for some types of stock construction. The down side is weight. I should add that my main Benchrest rifle is built around a Viper, that doesn't even have a place to put a front action screw, and it shoots well enough that I am not seriously contemplating taking it apart, to see if there is something to be gained by both pillar bedding and gluing, but if I build another....
 
goodgrouper said:
Yes. It will be fine. I had a 6 br improved on a Viper (Panda copy) that was just glued in and it held fine. A friend of mine has a 6.5-.284 on a Panda and it is glued in and it has not come loose either. But it does have a muzzle brake too.
Click to expand...

I was looking to only pillar bed and not glue. My new panda is lacking a recoil lug and just wondering if it will be ok with it being bolted in only. I have another panda built dasher that is glued in only and has been fine for almost 2 years. The reason I want a bolt in is, I want to be able to tear it apart if I have to and shoot in freezing temps. I never took my glue in out in freezing temps.
 
Years ago Namaka winter matches we were shooting in - 25 below zero
-no problems with glue ins.

But the Shooters Choice cleaning solution will freeze up.:eek:

Glenn:D
 
Al Mirdoch was a good friend and a fine shooter.
He had a great sense of humour also.

Glenn:D
 
I have seen and experienced personally a Glue in coming loose. I would not go there if I have another built. What is the advantage? What are the dis-advantages? When one looks at HBR rifles which must, by the rules, be Screwed in and their accuracy, well, they will never come loose, will they?

From what I have seen with the ones I have seen come-a-loose, the epoxy seemed to have shrunk, allowing them to come loose. Why do it? If I have to sacrafice the 2 OZ off the barrel, I will gladly do it any day.
 
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I am not sure of the spelling , sorry .. My rifle was stocked by Mr. Merrideth originally. Never had been a part since built in late 1999 or 2000 for Rick Dimaro. The Panda action, with 2 blind set screws in front and middle action holes, and 1 rear screw / trigger guard into the action / was also glued in. The set screws acted as holding posts mechanically locking to bedding and acting as recoil lugs. Then the security of the rear screw. Now thats putting an action into a stock never to be heard from again. I foolishly seperated it when rebarreling the last time, because it had never been reglued, and my thinking was, " Its all apart, why not? " should never have tried that. I had the bottom of the action radiused and bead blasted only at the contact areas of the bedding, filled it up and pasted back in just like before. Just like new , Never to be heard from again..
Andy B
 
Lawrence, I have never had one of my glue ins come loose, but have seen some that have. I think the main culprit is improper preparation.

I always bead blast (actually garnet medium), the bottom of my actions before I glue them. This is the one surface that just about any epoxy will adhere too. I also glue with nothing but JB Weld. In all honesty, I have never found anything better.

If everything is clean, (and I mean clean), and you prep the surfaces correctly, the problem will not be having the thing come loose, the problem will be getting it apart if the need ever arises..........jackie
 
Jackie, I think your last sentence makes a pretty good case for Pillars. The one I had that come loose; the bottom of the action was fly-cut after it came loose and then glued in. It took about an hour of the iron sitting atop it to get it loose after it was put back together when I needed to change the action out. I can't imagine heating an action for that long does it any good. As I said, because of that experience and because of the ones I have seen come loose, I will have them Pillared going forward.
 
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