Don't lap your lugs

interesting....

Donald,
If you had made the Shilen Swap Meet you would have seen their new receiver. It has an exact Remington footprint, uses Remington pattern triggers, has a Savage floating bolt head, and the Savage barrel and nut setup. I call it the ultimate switchbarrel. You can change barrels and bolt heads at home and be able to shoot several cartridges. They will be available as complete rifles, barreled actions, and actions. They will also be available for the wrong handed people.

Butch

Howdy Butch,
Any idea of when this action will be available?
Will it have easier bolt lift than Remington?
Will it presumably be trued better than a factory Remington?
Any guesstimation of the price?

Southpaws of the world, unite!:D

Thanks!
Greg
 
I like those

I bump the odd one (top and bottom) with dovetails and steel inserts... These should be called "Leeper Lumps" as Bill Leeper was the first to use this method that I know of...
700boltbump-0.jpg



very nice solution.
 
Greg,
The bolt timing is excellent. It also has a provision to replace the bolt knob.
Call Shilen about delivery date and price. They are built on CNC machines and are to the same specs as your BR receivers. No, you will not have to do anything to it.
Butch
 
Dennis, those dovetailed bumps look excellent. I'd been toying with the idea of set in bumps at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock on the closed bolt, under the receiver bridge and loctited set screws to centre the bolt. your's looks the far better idea.

From what I can make out, all that loose abrasive is good for is making the parts bright. Whitworth de-bunked the use of loose abrasive for making accurate surface plate and machine surfaces back in the 19th century, clearly stating that you have no control over where the stuff goes, or where it takes metal off.

Loose abrasive shouldn't really be called "lapping". Actual lapping with a series of accurate laps with embedded abrasive, and proper checking control over flatness and squareness is something completely different.

Whitworth's preference was for scraping.

I was reading an article on comparitive wear tests of scaped, periphery ground and cup ground surfaces in varying grades of cast iron and case hardened steel.

After 20,000 metres (about 12 miles) of sliding travel with proper lubrication, the least wear was between scraped surfaces, or with scraped on cup ground second.

Among the possible claims for scraped surfaces were greater flattness and better contact, retention of lubricant, and possibly locked in compressive stresses in the surface, where grinding locks in tensile stresses.

When surfaces of differing hardness were slid against each other, the harder surface suffered more wear. Irradiating the surfaces before running them, then taking radiographs after running, showed that wear particles from the hard surface embedded in the soft.

Now, what will the "gunsmithing" (bubba's garage tinkering) writers in gun magazines have to write about next month, after what you guys have said?:D.
 
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Dennis, those dovetailed bumps look excellent. I'd been toying with the idea of set in bumps at 10 o'clock and 2 o'clock on the closed bolt, under the receiver bridge and loctited set screws to centre the bolt. your's looks the far better idea.

.

If you use dovetailed 'bumps' remember the fellow that first came up with the idea... at least he is the first I know of to use this method. Bill Leeper a Canadian gunsmith. I refer to these bumps as 'Leepers Lumps'.
 
beats me, maybe glass the area the bolt rides in to tighten it up?

What a great way to scuff the hell out of the bolt body.

My little digi camera has a plastic bit on the strap, it's almost worn through the stainless front of the camera. later models have a rubber bit on the camera body to keep the plastic from rubbing on the stainless.

I'm sure part of the problem is the mineral dust (probably silica) used as filler in the plastic, but embedded grit from the environment is going to play a part too.

Part of a rifle primer composition is silica or broken glass, to cause sufficeint friction to ignite the primer,

so, even if the plastic is free from abrasive filler and the rifle is never in a dusty environment, some of that primer dust will still get into the plastic.
 
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