? chucking up a barrel ?

I still indicated it in at the projected throat, but did more like Gene Begg's method which is what had been done for a long time before it was ever popular to drill and bore out most of the chamber and I just let the reamer pilot follow the hole. After chambering it for a third time, I doubt I even checked it for runout except for looking to see if the throat was in the center with the borescope. I can probably count on one hand the barrels I've done using the method in the article that didn't check out with the throat in the center of the bore. I check the runout of the finished chamber at the neck and base of the chamber of every customer's chamber I do. Then check the throat with the borescope to make sure it's centered as the last step before removing the barrel from the lathe. I think sometimes you get barrels that are tough to get a good throat no matter what method you use. Thankfully, those barrels are few and far between.
 
Still looking forward to getting the Grizzly rods and giving them a try. Just hope it's not another thing tried and another thing discarded like some of the reamer holders I've tried.
 
Sure is a lack of understanding of just what "Axis" means.

To indicate the barrel to where the axis wobbles, then bore it out, then ream it at an angle to intersect to the axis.......RIGHT, and some have the nerve to question my abilities.
 
Sure is a lack of understanding of just what "Axis" means.

To indicate the barrel to where the axis wobbles, then bore it out, then ream it at an angle to intersect to the axis.......RIGHT, and some have the nerve to question my abilities.

What are your abilities?
 
This thread is just about to reach "epic".

Still, I have asked it a couple of times. No one has answered. How are many of you actually checking your work after all criticle areas are finished?

After reading how many are setting barrels up, I can see "stacked variables" permiating many.

In the Machine Shop world, you have to check and verify. You simply cannot assume that a given set-up is performing as it should.

About two months ago, an old friend, (retired ploice officer), who has got into gunsmithing, brought an action by that he has "trued". He had invested in that system that uses an arbor and a tap to straighten up the threads. I forget which brand.

He asked me to see how well it did. I machined a dummy barrel tenon, screwed the action up on it, and placed my checking arbor in the end. The arbor ran out .020.

I explained to him that his threads and action face still were not truly straight with the bolt way. I tried to explain to him all of the variables that can stack up when using a rig such as what he used. The major one being that the entire concept was flawed from the beginning.

Unless you are actually checking your set-ups and procedures, you are simply painting by the numbers..........jackie
 
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This thread is just about to reach "epic".

If there was any doubt this post ought to push it over the edge. :D

Still, I have asked it a couple of times. No one has answered. How are many of you actually checking your work after all criticle areas are finished?



I check what I can with the instrumentation I have. I'm a hobbiest doing it for myself and family. I don't have any long reach DTIs, but I don't think much of them in any event (they aren't rigid or mounted rigid +/-0.0001" so how the heck can they measure that accurately bouncing over rifling? Answer: They can't.) so I don't regard that as a handicap:
  1. I put the Grizzly rod into the barrel at and and inch or so past the throat and check to see if it is still where I had it when I aligned the blank in the headstock. I understand the tolerances in the Grizzly rod approach. The DTI is supported off the tool post which is a heck of a lot more rigid than a magnetic base, the rod is almost bore size, and it's held against one side by a thread and 2oz weight - it repeates beautifully. I use the mag base to guide the thread - it works good for that.
  2. I use the DTI supported off the tool post on the back end of the chamber to see if it is running true to the lathe axis.
  3. I check the chamber depth one last time with the Go-Gage and a depth mic.
  4. I check the chamber diameter at the breech end to see how it compares to the reamer.
  5. I look at the throat area with the borescope to see if it is centered.
The barrel blanks don't seem to move, but that isn't surprising considering the light cuts I'm taking.
I've not had any oversize chambers using my floating pusher, and so far at least, the rear of all the chambers has been within +/- 0.0002" and the throats are centered within the tolerances permitted by the bushing fit to the bore. For me, that's good enough.

I have spent quite a bit of time in metrology labs working the the experts to set up measurements in my former life. It is a whole lot harder than most folks would think to make a measurement that is repeatable to within +/- 0.0001". Not gonna happen with a mag base supported long reach DTI bouncing over rifling. The rigidity just isn't there. Period.

I can see a significant difference between holding my DTI off a holder that looks like a cutting tool blank clamped in the tool post and on the mag base. In theory and practice, if the force to deflect the tip and get the measurement isn't much much much less than the force to deflect the setup by the accuracy delta desired, the measurement is not going to have the desired accuracy.

When I first got my brandnew DTI and tried it out I thought it didn't work. Then I supported it off the tool post and came close to throwing the new magnetic base in the trash - it is useless for measurements that need to be less than +/- 0.001". DTI was as expected, the mag base was not rigid enough.

After reading how many are setting barrels up, I can see "stacked variables" permiating many.

And some approaches are fundamentally flawed, some more than others, in addition to tolerance stacking. If the setup isn't theoritically correct for the general case of the part to be machined, results are determined, at least in part, by chance properties of the particular piece. The goal is to get the desired result every time, not just when the stars are aligned.

In the Machine Shop world, you have to check and verify. You simply cannot assume that a given set-up is performing as it should.

About two months ago, an old friend, (retired ploice officer), who has got into gunsmithing, brought an action by that he has "trued". He had invested in that system that uses an arbor and a tap to straighten up the threads. I forget which brand.

He asked me to see how well it did. I machined a dummy barrel tenon, screwed the action up on it, and placed my checking arbor in the end. The arbor ran out .020.

I explained to him that his threads and action face still were not truly straight with the bolt way. I tried to explain to him all of the variables that can stack up when using a rig such as what he used. The major one being that the entire concept was flawed from the beginning.

Roger that! I read a description of the tap systems and figured there must still be suckers born every minute if they sell. There is no way the tap system, which is fundamentally flawed from the start, is going to be anyplace close to as accurate as single point chasing the threads in a lathe after doing the proper alignment. That said, it ain't as easy as it might look to get it right. I've only done it a few times and it took me hours to get ready for a few minutes of making chips.

Unless you are actually checking your set-ups and procedures, you are simply painting by the numbers..........jackie

To which I'd add measuring the completed part as your friend asked you to do. Good on him for following up to check his work! I wish it had come out better than it did, but considering the tools he used, it could have been even worse. Truth be told, with out data on how it measured before he worked on it, there is no way to know if his efforts resulted in an improvement or made it worse.

Your machined stub method for checking receivers ought to be pretty darn good if the stub is used right where it is machined and not removed from the machine before use. The machine is rigid, the instrument can be supported on a tool post resulting in a setup that is close enough to perfectly rigid relative to the forces involved in taking mesurements that the difference is undetectable in a practical sense.

Fitch
 
Over the years when discussions like this took place, I always sorta tried to think about what might be a common fundamental misconception about measurement. So many people have ideas in their mind about what the instrument is telling them, and lots of times they are mistaken.

It seems like the biggest problem is not so much in making the actual measurements, as it is in what gets concluded from what was seen. Some things are easy to measure, some are even easy to measure down to past .0001. Grab a good set of calibrated carbide faced mics and check a gage pin. I bet if it's a plus, you can tell that with your mics in about 3 sec. I know I can. How "plus" is it? Not very damn. Now, go inside a barrel and measure something to those figures and I'm gonna get skeptical. That does not mean you can't use the instrument that reads down that far and get better info than with a .001 indicator, it just means you have to take some of what you read with a grain of salt. Here's where you get as close as you can, and accept the rest.

Adding things on to an indicator is simply flawed thinking. Can you still measure things? Yes. Is it nearly as accurate? No. Is it closer than I could do with other instruments? No. Would I personally do it? Not under these circumstances.

Here's a great thing to think about. Everybody has nice .001 indicators, right? Now, why do you suppose they did not just put a 10:1 gearbox in there and spin the needle 10 times as fast, and make .0001 indicators instead? Why is it that .0001 indicators cost like Cadillac cars? The reason they don't is that just adding on the faster needle gizmo isn't going to make the indicator higher resolution. The needle might spin more, but that's all that happens.

Another analogy would be to ask someone here to make a milligram scale out of a .01 gram scale by putting a see-saw on it. Give that a shot and see how that works out. Ya might better just buy the milligram scale. Yer gonna be in for a long night trying to get 3 decimals out of the 2 decimal scale you have. I'd bet when you're done, you won't even get 2.
 
Al,
I understand levers and gears and mechanical advantage real good. And I'm here to tell ya that if you take a scale that was built to measure to pounds, it will not measure closer than pounds. Now, I'm aware that they make beam scales, and I know how they work. I own a few. Please, by all means, go turn any one of them into a scale that measures 10x as close as it used to using a see-saw. Now, if you use the same inspection methods on the scale as some use here (none), then yep, it'll work. If you actually expect it to weigh the item, you are kidding yourself. Furthermore, you might get something to work really super half-assed if you work with big enough items. Ya know, things you can weigh with your hands. But, weigh something really small that a typical pounds scale won't weigh, and there you go.

As an example, I have a scale that I can weigh extrusions of powder, even ones that have been cut into parts. If you can build a see-saw that will "INCREASE" the resolution of that scale, I am gonna be damn impressed. Same goes for indicators. I have Browne and Sharpe indicators marketed as .00005 resolution. If you can get that thing to read out .000005 res, I think we've found your nitche.
 
Sounds good in theory Al, but in practice, I think you're in for an eye opening. Give it a shot, let me know how you make out. Even with a pound scale. Oh, and please actually verify the weights with something like your gun scale (.01# res).
 
OK...Heres where Im at. I indicated the muzzle and 1 1/2" into the chamber to .0001.I cut a rough tennon and I drilled and bored about 7/8" of the chamber. I now have .0001 at the muzzle, .0001 on my rough tennon, .0001 at 1.5" into the chamber, .0001 where I bored but I have .00025 at point where my reamer bushing will enter the bore. Im wondering if this ok, or if should try to bore deeper to where there is less runout.
Thanks,
Jonathan Kuykendall
 
OK...Heres where Im at. I indicated the muzzle and 1 1/2" into the chamber to .0001.I cut a rough tennon and I drilled and bored about 7/8" of the chamber. I now have .0001 at the muzzle, .0001 on my rough tennon, .0001 at 1.5" into the chamber, .0001 where I bored but I have .00025 at point where my reamer bushing will enter the bore. Im wondering if this ok, or if should try to bore deeper to where there is less runout.
Thanks,
Jonathan Kuykendall

IMO it's fine. I'd go to the reamer and quit messing with boring. The .00015" of wander is no doubt smaller than the difference between your bored hole and the finish reamed diameter. Yes, the reamer will in theory move radially .00015" following the bore, assuming the pilot fit is that good which it probably isn't, but it won't result in an oversize chamber in your circumstance. So go ahead and finish the tenon and ream the chamber.

Bottom line, every time you put a tool to metal, especially boring into a chamber with a boring bar, there is a chance to make a mistake, so it's always a risk/reward situation. At this point you have exactly nothing to gain by doing more boring, so I'd recommend getting on with the tenon and reaming the chamber.

Fitch
 
.0001 at 1.5" into the chamber, .0001 where I bored but I have .00025 at point where my reamer bushing will enter the bore. Im wondering if this ok, or if should try to bore deeper to where there is less runout.
Thanks,
Jonathan Kuykendall

If you use a snug fitting bushing, the reamer will center as it enters the finish depth (where you have the 0.0001" runout).

In the entry at the 0.00025" runout there will theoretically be an 0.0005" oversize situation as the reamer oscillates. Not to worry, you will cut that out as the taper enlarges the chamber body to finish size.
 
Jonathan, the only caugtion I would give is to re-confirm your 1 1/2 inch in the ID indicator reading after you do your roughing work. When dealing with tolerances this small, there is always the possibility that the set-up can move a tad during the roughing operations. Especially if you are using some type of soft metal inserts between the chuck jaws and the barrel.

The usual Machine Shop Practice, (sorry Al), is to indicate the bore pretty close, do all of the roughing and drilling operations, then indicate the criticle area before the final finished cuts and reaming......jackie
 
I have noticed something from reading threads and looking at pictures of various set-ups. That is, most chamber the barrel after the threading, etc.

Since the first thing I do is rough in the tenon and then establish the chamber, after which I do all of the subsequent machining operations. I am curious as to why most ream the chamber after the other operations.

I seem to do it different from most. After indicating the barrel in using Deltronic pins I chamber and run the reamer in until the NO-GO gage is below flush with end of barrel. I then face off the breech end until flush with NO-GO gage.

I then cut the tenon and establish the shoulder. The reason I use the NO-GO gage is when the barrel is installed and torqued down the 'crush' fit makes the headspace perfect in most cases. If it's not perfect then I've misread the depth mike somewhere along the line. If you use the GO gage and cut the shoulder to the exact headspace dimension and then install the barrel most times the bolt won't close on the GO gage. I then cut the threads and finally the cone or bolt nose relief. A final polish and I'm done.
 
That's too easy and too fast Mickey. You might actually get barrels done while the customer is still alive. Gotta change something quick! :D

If yer not careful, you might end up with time to work on the stuff that does matter!
 
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Al,

I'm all for the idea of "to each his own". I do some off the wall stuff at certain places and I don't ask for anyones approval either. Truth is, I'm not sure there's anything I do like anyone else.

Honestly though, you ought to go do the thing with a scale and a lever just for kicks. Especially a scale that weighs down to either milligrams, or hundredths. I've done it (in case you hadn't figured that). It was just a fun exercise like it'd be for you. I'll be honest with ya, I thought it would at least work half assed. Meaning, ehhh, maybe be able to see something in the results. Well, nope. You'll never get past the part with the levers. You'll say to yourself, how much friction are we talking about with 2 needle points on hardened gimbals. Well, a LOT. Lol, it's pretty funny to see just how completely it will fail.

Back to measuring... In production shops where measuring is not optional, it is rarely done with measuring instruments. Probably 99% of it is done with gages. The Gage(s) get made real close like, and then they are used for all checking. Mickey here doing his entire chamber job with the No-Go, has probably the fastest, most foolproof method I've heard here. Bing-bang-boom, dead on the money. Many here, including myself, don't have the gages to begin with. I'd have to make my own, and just never bothered for the number of jobs I do for myself. But that's really the way to go on the Z axis. As far as X goes, I think you have to do one really bad once to learn if bad really is bad. I've never done one that was bad, so I don't know if good is any better than bad. Maybe a throat .005 off center would shoot better, I don't know. And, while I've had more parts in lathes than I care to remember, I can't say I've ever done a barrel like anyone I've heard of here. My setup is SOOoooo different, it's damn near impossible to compare notesl. I do however have a pretty good grasp on what people are trying to do. I wish someone had some definitive numbers on what works best, and I admit I do not either.

For me, like many others here, I would have to feel that someone elses idea gave me confidence that I'd be making a clear improvement over what I do now before abandoning my current method. Even to "try" it, I need to have a warm fuzzy feeling about something anyhow. If I get to that point, I'll be trying something new. If ya ask around, folks 'll tell ya I'm not afraid of trying something if I think it might work better. Oh, and without me changing lathes, this method is not possible, not in the one I use currently for my chamberings.

//Edit
Oh, and Al, on the subject of "Timed or not". I think you'll find most all folks here will say that when machining parts, they've found that the best ever jobs are ones where the least amount of time was spent on machining the part.
 
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That's too easy and too fast Mickey. You might actually get barrels done while the customer is still alive. Gotta change something quick! :D

If yer not careful, you might end up with time to work on the stuff that does matter!

I've always heard that you give the difficult job to a lazy man and he'll figure out how to do it. :) This method is quick, easy and it works. Normally, I can chamber a barrel in and hour and a half and that includes cutting and crowning.

I forgot to put in the original post the reason I chamber first. I had always had difficulty in getting reliable measurements trying to measure from the back of the headspace gauge to the shoulder due to the gauge rocking a little in the chamber. By using this method I have a most stable 'platform' for the depth mike. It's easy as pie.
 
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I've always heard that you give the difficult job to a lazy man and he'll figure out how to do it. :) This method is quick, easy and it works. Normally, I can chamber a barrel in and hour and a half and that includes cutting and crowning.

I forgot to put in the original post the reason I chamber first. I had always had difficulty in getting reliable measurements trying to measure from the back of the headspace gauge to the shoulder due to the gauge rocking a little in the chamber. By using this method I have a most stable 'platform' for the depth mike. It's easy as pie.

Mickey...I just finished a barrel for a glued in action...chambering the blank before I cut or threaded the tenon...and you are "spot on"....it is easier to use the depth micrometer across the back of the barrel..and my headspace was dead on when I torqued the barrel onto the action...:D

Eddie in Texas
 
Eddie, I'm absolutely delighted that it worked so well for you. You've made my day!
Warmest regards,
Mickey
 
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