Chambering: indicate bore before threading and/or before reamer?

Like Mike explains. check the finished product with a borescope if you are doing a benchrest chamber. if the 11/2-2 degree leade is not perfectly centered is probably will not shoot benchrest groups.


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I have always turned and threaded the tenon then chambered. When I first started doing barrel work (1977), turned and threaded the barrel between centers then set up in the steady rest or the four jaw chuck to chamber. I preferred using the steady because the tailstock on the lathe I was using at the time sat a little high and I could compensate with the steady. The method worked well but there were unavoidable compromises made (as there are with any set-up, really). In the mid eighties, I started doing all chambering and threading while set up through the headstock. Since then, I might vary the set-up or the order of doing things from time to time but mostly, I've stayed with it.
Years ago I came up with some very soft iron wire (3/16) and that is what I use to hold the barrel in the 4-jaw. Either that or some 1/8 inch brass rod.
I have seen very few barrels which appeared to be nearly straight and only one which I would have called perfectly straight. By the way, that barrel was wasted on a 300 mag. hunting rifle! Regards, Bill.
 
Thanks guys. They shoot well, but it is hard to compare a light hunting rifle to a br rifle. I like the wire around the barrel trick.
 
Thanks guys. They shoot well, but it is hard to compare a light hunting rifle to a br rifle. I like the wire around the barrel trick.
No it ain't...... I do it all the time


'Course it DOES require a BR Rifle.

OOPS, yer right..... that WOULD BE HARD

for you
 
No movement

I cant seem to figure out how to post pictures bit I've built a chuck that absolutly will not move while machining a barrel. I wish I could share the pics. If someone can help please let me know.
I use a 3/8 fine thread machine screw that I machined the end for a small magnet and a 3/8 steel bearing. I then place a shoe that I machined for the 3/8 bearing with a 3/8 ball mill between the bearing and barrel. The set up is basically a spider chuck but the balls and shoes allow for the barrel to tumble and they are rick solid.
 
I cant seem to figure out how to post pictures bit I've built a chuck that absolutly will not move while machining a barrel. I wish I could share the pics. If someone can help please let me know.
I use a 3/8 fine thread machine screw that I machined the end for a small magnet and a 3/8 steel bearing. I then place a shoe that I machined for the 3/8 bearing with a 3/8 ball mill between the bearing and barrel. The set up is basically a spider chuck but the balls and shoes allow for the barrel to tumble and they are rick solid.

Where have you been Lee? I believe Nez, Bamban, showed photos of his set up that is similar or the same as yours.
 
No it ain't...... I do it all the time


'Course it DOES require a BR Rifle.

OOPS, yer right..... that WOULD BE HARD

for you

Very true. I only own long range hunting rifle since that’s my passion. When I can no longer hike the mountains, I might build a 70 lb 7br (still have the reamer, gauges and components) and sit firmly on a bench with my best friends drinking ice tea and complaining about the news of the day.
 
Very true. I only own long range hunting rifle since that’s my passion. When I can no longer hike the mountains, I might build a 70 lb 7br (still have the reamer, gauges and components) and sit firmly on a bench with my best friends drinking ice tea and complaining about the news of the day.

Just remember DodgeBoy...... the ignore button is your friend, or at least you SAY repeatedly that it's your friend.... but if you actually would like to make human friends, and show them how i'tis, (or learn how it is) you go ahead and make that thar 70lber and then you taken it on out and shoot it with witnesses, at a match.

It'll reset your clock.

There is N O T H I N G to compare with being thoroughly trounced in the real world to change the way you think of accuracy.

I double-dog-DARE you to go out and shoot with some of them Olde Pharts of whom you speak so disparagingly. "complaining about the news of the day" myass....
 
I missed this dodge boy guy knocking older gents! I’m offended! Imo, I have learned the most from the older gents in my life that said very few words. You know, the ones that when you asked them about Korea, you’d have to pull stories from them. The guys that didn’t offer up any advice unless asked, but when you finally ask, thy have a short sentence that puts everything into light. I love old guys .... and I’m getting there quick.

Shame on that dodgeball guy! :)
 
I missed this dodge boy guy knocking older gents! I’m offended! Imo, I have learned the most from the older gents in my life that said very few words. You know, the ones that when you asked them about Korea, you’d have to pull stories from them. The guys that didn’t offer up any advice unless asked, but when you finally ask, thy have a short sentence that puts everything into light. I love old guys .... and I’m getting there quick.

Shame on that dodgeball guy! :)

;)
 
I went to that setup

I cant seem to figure out how to post pictures bit I've built a chuck that absolutly will not move while machining a barrel. I wish I could share the pics. If someone can help please let me know.
I use a 3/8 fine thread machine screw that I machined the end for a small magnet and a 3/8 steel bearing. I then place a shoe that I machined for the 3/8 bearing with a 3/8 ball mill between the bearing and barrel. The set up is basically a spider chuck but the balls and shoes allow for the barrel to tumble and they are rick solid.

4 or 5 years ago and wouldn't go back to any other. It allows you to chuck up on the taper of a Rem Varmint coutour with no problems. Straight screws were always a problem on the taper section of a bbl. Your right, it's a rock solid way to hold a bbl.

Richard
 
I cant seem to figure out how to post pictures bit I've built a chuck that absolutly will not move while machining a barrel. I wish I could share the pics. If someone can help please let me know.

If you'd like to email me the pics, I can post them for you and you can comment on them. Send me a PM for my email.

Good shootin'. :) -Al
 
Holding jaws

I think this set up is very close to what Skeetlee is using. I made this set up about two years ago. Hold's the barrel stress-free with no movement. Also, have made this same setup for a couple of friends using the Bald Eagle Alum spider

Chet


1 BEARING JAWS.JPG Holding jaws.jpg 2 BEARING JAWS.JPG

bald eagle 1.jpg bald eagle 2.jpg bald eagle 3.jpg
 
I think this set up is very close to what Skeetlee is using. I made this set up about two years ago. Hold's the barrel stress-free with no movement. Also, have made this same setup for a couple of friends using the Bald Eagle Alum spider

Chet


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Dude that's just sick! None of my equipment has ever been that clean. It wasn't that clean in the shipping crate.....A guy could set his sammich on that between bites. Even if it's white bread...
 
I think this set up is very close to what Skeetlee is using. I made this set up about two years ago. Hold's the barrel stress-free with no movement. Also, have made this same setup for a couple of friends using the Bald Eagle Alum spider

Chet


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That's more or less what I envisioned with SkeetLee's post, but your execution of the concept is excellent. Nicely done!

GsT
 
That's just a little

tidbit of what Chet can do. I have seen alot of the dodads that he makes and it's just amazing.

Richard
 
Justin, I see two problems other than the TPI. They have very little area bearing on the barrel and I'm not a fan of the metal in the swivel tips.
Kinda like the old Porsche rocker arm adjusting screws.
 
Justin, I see two problems other than the TPI. They have very little area bearing on the barrel and I'm not a fan of the metal in the swivel tips.
Kinda like the old Porsche rocker arm adjusting screws.

Butch,

Not a fan of the metal in the tips, or just not a fan of metal tips?

I used these for a spider I just built for the outboard side of my Emco Super 11. I didn't want steel to steel contact, so I epoxied little brass shim stock discs to the bottom of them. I thought about making little brass press on feet for them, but took the easy way for starters. I think they'll be fine for my application where there isn't any stress put on the barrel via machining ops.

I agree with you on small bearing surface...too small for turning and threading, but one could build feet similar to Chet's for them to increase surface area, but you still gotta deal with the coarse thread.

Chet's setup is slick!

Justin
 
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