bed receiver, barrel, or ?

T

toolmakr

Guest
I'm new on this forum, found a huge amount of info and interesting ideas. Not sure if this should go in general or gunsmith, but I'm hoping to get some help or more food for thought on curing a problem I have. A little background is needed, so please bear with me. The rifle is a new, unmodified, 12.5 pound single shot, bolt action .223 Savage Model 12 with a 26 inch, 1 in 9 twist, heavier barrel (1.040 near the nut, tapers to .812 dia. at the muzzle). It has a Nikon Monarch 6-24x 50mm dia. objective scope with fine cross-hairs mounted with Leupold rings and bases. Primary intended use is target shooting at 100 to 200 yards, although occasionally a varmint might find itself in front of it. Currently the varmints are pretty safe.

Depending on bullet weight, the gun groups completely differently. I know that is to be expected, but not to the amount I'm seeing. I haven't gotten the reloader dies yet, so my data are limited to factory ammo. 55 and 64 grain bullets from 3 different makers print in one general group and Hornady 75 gr. BTHP prints a better group centered several inches to the right at 100 yards. 10 shot group sizes are about 1.5" with the lighter bullets and 1.1" with the 75gr. A letter to the gunmaker went unanswered, so after collecting more data and wasting perfectly good gunpowder, I called. After informing me that different bullet weights shoot differently, they offered to have their gunsmiths check it out if I would strip off the scope and send it to them at my expense. In Savage's defense, the gun meets their 1.5 MOA guarantee, but I expected better even with factory ammo. Silly me.

But I still want better, so I've been experimenting with different shooting methods, bipods vs. sandbags, etc. I've made some minor gains, but not to the degree wanted, so it's time to try to improve the gun to see what it's really capable of. The barrel is fully floated, but the fit between the receiver and beautiful walnut stock is less than impressive, and I think that movement results in the large left / right group differences and is also partially responsible for the group sizes.

I know bedding the receiver in Devcon Plastic Steel epoxy would help. But, having been a toolmaker in a former life, I've been thinking about building a fairly large, say 1.5" square by 13" long aluminum bedding block. It would be machined for a line to line fit with the first 8" of barrel, clearance fit around the barrel nut, then line to line with the receiver back almost to the trigger assembly. It would go from the barrel centerline, down and have two wide, machined clamps over the barrel, and use the existing screws into the bottom of the receiver. There would be a slot for the recoil lug, flat on the back side and tapered on the front side for a wedge type clamp that would be pulled into place with a screw accessible from the bottom of the gun. Rough up the outside of this block and mill a loose pocket with a couple small "datum" surfaces and glue the block into the existing stock with the Devcon. Obviously all these line to line fits I mentioned would be a technical challenge, but it is possible.

The question is, in making the whole thing stiffer, will it now still "ring" but just at a higher frequency? Or is the vibration damping ability of the wood/bedding epoxy of more traditional bedding techniques the better solution? If I went with the more traditional bedding method, would anything be gained by running it 8 inches or so up the barrel? I would think the stock will eventually warp (doesn't all wood warp a little?) and try to take the barrel with it. Hence the idea for a far more complicated aluminum bedding block.

Sorry this took so long, I promise any future postings will be brief. Thanks in advance for all your comments. I look forward to hearing what you think of a crazy old toolmaker's idea.
Kevin
 
Kevin

No Rifle, whether it is a Factory offering, or a Custom, will shoot up to it's potential untill a shooter works up a load that the Rifle likes. This means handloading.
It is not uncommon for a Rifle to shoot different brands of Factory Ammo with the difference in accuracy that you are seeing. About all shooting Factory ammo does is give you some good fireformed cases to hit the ground running with as soon as you get your handloading gear in order.

As for the bedding, there are THOUSANDS of model 12 Savages out there shooting quite well with nothing more than a proper bedding job performed on the action. Under no circumstanses bed the barrel. Fine Rifles shoot their best with free floated barrels, and a properly bedded action. All of that other stuff you are talking about doing might look really neat and make for great conversation, but as far as helping your Rifle shoot more accurate, I doubt you could see any difference over simply giving the action a proper bed.

I have seen Factory Savage 223 Model 12's, with no more than a good bedding job and a good tuning by way of handloads, shoot at a .300 to .400 agg level. That's about all you can ask for with a "Factory" offerring.........jackie
 
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I appreciate the comments Jackie. Yep, I'm getting plenty of cases ready for reloading season, aka winter. I didn't know whether I was expecting too much or not. I know it's a completely different animal, but I have a factory Marlin 17HMR that will shoot the holes the 223 leaves behind. Thanks for the advise about more traditional bedding. It would certainly be a lot nicer looking than my more ambitious idea, and like you said, the goal is more accuracy. The target, not the gun should be the conversation piece.
Thanks again,
Kevin
 
Bedding is your friend

I would use Devcon Steel Putty and bed the action from the back of the magazine forward to 2 inches in front of the recoil lug. BE SURE NOT TO BED BEHIND THE MAGAZINE WELL - Savages hate to have the rear of the action bedded. Also put tape on the sides and front of the recoil lug when bedding to allow for some "wiggle" room when taking the gun in and out of the stock.

Next work up a load for your gun as mentioned above. My Savage Model 10FP loves 69 grain Sierra MatchKing bullets seated .020" back off the rifling with 24.5 grains of H4895 and a Wolf Small Rifle Magnum primer. This load shoots inside 1.5" at 200 yards ( this is for 20 shot groups )and under .5" at 100 yards (can you say poor wind reader).

George
 
Bedding

I've been curious why some bed the action along with the chamber area and why some just bed the action only. Well known respected gunsmiths are split on this; some only bedding the action and some bedding the first several inches of barrel (chamber area) in front of the recoil lug. There does not appear to be a clear hard and fast rule and it seems to be a personal opinion.

I decided to try and answer the question in my own mind simply because I have an unquenchable curiosity. I have a match grade light varmint barrel along with a benchrest action in a quality stock. I bedded the action first the conventional way with the barrel completly free floated. After the action bedding cured (six days), I made a removeable shim of bedding compound under the chamber area by using release agent in the barrel channel, under the barrel and creating a small clay dam to prevent compound from oozing into the recoil lug area. The shim is removeable and I can compare results with and without. When weather permits I'll be able to make comparisons and see if there is sound merit to bedding under the chamber area or completely free floating.

Lou Baccino
 
Lou

Bedding the chamber area of ther barrel goes back to the days of the old sporterized military actions, which, with all of the cut-aways, were quite flimsy in their length. The common practice with a 98 Mauser was to bed the action, making sure no bedding material got under the recoil lug, and then the first couple of inches of the chamber.

The general consensus with more modern actions is the best course is to not bed the barrel at all. This is especially so with the recent concept of the switch barrel Rifle, which is becoming more popular. If you bed the barrel, it will not match up perfectly with the one that came out, hence you would have to re-bed the Rifle every time you changed barrels.

The whole isea behind a free floating barrel, (in front of an properly stiff action), is as the heat builds, the barrel will simply expand in a linear direction, not affecting POA that much. Since the barrel is where the heat is located, this seems practicle. .........jackie
 
how meny action screws ?

hi
dose your action have two or three action screw's
as i have found that triger screw tends to put a strain on the action as the stock is half cut away to make room for the triger !

so when bedding the three screw action i only use the front two screw as this dose not put any strain on the rear of the action !

you mite also try removing the rear screw it see if it as any impact on group size ?
 
bedding

Bedding the chamber area of ther barrel goes back to the days of the old sporterized military actions, which, with all of the cut-aways, were quite flimsy in their length. The common practice with a 98 Mauser was to bed the action, making sure no bedding material got under the recoil lug, and then the first couple of inches of the chamber.

The general consensus with more modern actions is the best course is to not bed the barrel at all. This is especially so with the recent concept of the switch barrel Rifle, which is becoming more popular. If you bed the barrel, it will not match up perfectly with the one that came out, hence you would have to re-bed the Rifle every time you changed barrels.

The whole isea behind a free floating barrel, (in front of an properly stiff action), is as the heat builds, the barrel will simply expand in a linear direction, not affecting POA that much. Since the barrel is where the heat is located, this seems practicle. .........jackie

Jackie,
Thank you for your input. This action and stock are for a switch barrel rifle. It just seems there is a great deal of weight hanging on the end of the action. Intuitively, by bedding this area, it alleviates some of the bending moment on the face of the action. That's the reason I think some still bed this area and I'm not claiming it's necessary for accuracy. It's a little science experiment that I've been thinking about. It will be some time before I can compare results with and without.

Again, thank you for the history and your experience as it is highly valued and credible. Your posts are always informational and full of technical detail that helps those of us still in the learning curve.

Lou Baccino
 
Thanks to everyone for the info on good loads, bedding methods, history, and other comments. Part of the idea of this large bedding block was to make everything so massive and stiff that it would shoot everything, light, heavy, factory, handloads, decent and developed target loads good. "Decent" meaning everything inside a 1" dia. circle at 100 yds, "good" to me puts all holes in a .5" dia. circle at 100. I can't read the wind yet either. :D
Current thinking here is I will proceed with traditional bedding from recoil lug to just in front of trigger. If I'm not impressed yet, I can always mill it all out and go with the big bedding block later.
You know where it's going, don't ya. A big custom rig with 3" dia. 30" long stovepipe that weighs 58 pounds and the only thing "stock" will be the bolt handle. All to poke some holes in some paper. Thanks guys. Thanks a lot. :D:D
Kevin
 
We Kinda Forgot One Major Item

The very best bedding job for a barreled action that is secured in a stock by way of screws is a finely fitted set of pillars in conjunction with a properly bedded action body. The pillars guarantee that the action screws cannot compress and distort the parent material of the stock........jackie
 
You're right, Jackie. Thanks for pointing that out. How much of the stock material is typically left between the head of the screws and the bottom of the pillars? I saw some nice escutcheon designs on this forum.
Kevin
 
I wonder why

Savage puts 1-9 twist barrels on their .223's? I would rather have a slower twist so I could shoot smaller bullets. I bought a Stevens a couple of years ago and wanted to shoot light bullets in it but it seems to only want to shoot the 69g Sierras. It has a something a bit over 1-9 but not 1-10 twist barrel on it. Is the Long Range segment of our sports pushing Savage to install fast twist barrels? It would be nice if they would give a choice.
 
Bedding pillars

The very best bedding job for a barreled action that is secured in a stock by way of screws is a finely fitted set of pillars in conjunction with a properly bedded action body. The pillars guarantee that the action screws cannot compress and distort the parent material of the stock........jackie

Jackie,
Does it matter whether the pillars are radiused to match the curvature of the action? I realize a proper bedding job takes care of this but I've seen pillars that are radiused to match the o.d of the action.

Lou Baccino
 
Lou

This probably goes under the heading, "if you can't get it perfect, then just make them flat". For instance, a Remington action will measure about 1.370 on the OD, so you put a 11/16 radius on the pillar, then you have to get it clocked exactly in the stock. In the end, it might end up hitting on just one spot anyway if you are not carefull.

You are correct, just making them flat, then letting the epoxy bedding compound take up the space is just as good.

The main thing is to be sure and get the pillars properly epoxied into the stock, so that they become, in a sense, part of the stock.

Remember, the primary function of the pillars is to avoid compressing the stock material in way of the hold down screws.........jackie
 
bedding

This probably goes under the heading, "if you can't get it perfect, then just make them flat". For instance, a Remington action will measure about 1.370 on the OD, so you put a 11/16 radius on the pillar, then you have to get it clocked exactly in the stock. In the end, it might end up hitting on just one spot anyway if you are not carefull.

You are correct, just making them flat, then letting the epoxy bedding compound take up the space is just as good.

The main thing is to be sure and get the pillars properly epoxied into the stock, so that they become, in a sense, part of the stock.

Remember, the primary function of the pillars is to avoid compressing the stock material in way of the hold down screws.........jackie


Thanx, Jackie.

Lou Baccino
 
Toolmakr

This will be a little different than what you have heard, but thinking it thru
you may see where I'm going. First thing, Get the proper dies and begin loading. get a direction in your loads and bullets. You will see declines and improvements. When you get a handle on a decent load, aproach the gun
slowly. Having an idea what works will help you in finding the best way to
bed it. Factory ammo has many things against it, namely its not fitted
in your gun. Bullets are not often that good, and the load is a comprimise
on some level. Bedding is not a quantity thing in any way, it is a quality
thing. Pillars are not the holy grail in all guns and for all owners. Guard
screws in the order of 1/4-28 can generate tons of pressure when
a gorilla tightens them, its not needed.Laminated wood tends to be pretty solid. now if all that wood is oil soaked, we have a different animal alltogether.
You have 2 problems, attack one at a time. Most savages shoot well as
out of the box, but seldom with factory fodder
 
I've got a Savage .223 with factory fluted stainless 1 in 9 barrel. I replaced the factory recoil lug with one machined dead flat from Sharp Shoother Supply. The factory stamped lug can be off in thickness from top to bottom by as much .008".

After replacing the recoil lug, I then bedded the rifle with Decon Steel Putty in a Savage laminated BR stock. The TANG must be floated on the Savage but I do bed the rear of the action at the pillar and the front receiver ring areas/recoil lug. I don't bed the barrel but make sure it's floated back to the action. Be sure the recoil lug only makes contact on the rear surface when bedding. I use two layers of painters tape on the front bottom and sides to float these areas in the epoxy.

Tom
 
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