bbl removal help

M

mike in co

Guest
i have an action wrench, and a bbl vice, the bbl vice uses wood blocks or i can custom cut from al plate tightened with two nuts, just ovr 1" dia studs.. the action wrench is an external up around the frt of the action.
this is the second bbl i have not been able to remove in this set up.
it is a interarms mark x in 7x57, ( commercial 98 mauser action).
the bbl need repolishing and/or maybe blued, its going back on...so cannot screw it up.


extent the studs( newer/longer) and add a hydraulic jack ?

i spent three years colleting part puting the rifle back together, it shoots, so its time to "finish" the rifle( the bbl had been sanded on and scratched)

thanks
mike in co
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Barrel removal

Do your blocks fit the contour of the barrel? You should be able to generate enough pressure with the studs, but I'm assuming the barrel is slipping. Try using dry resin powder on the surfaces that contacts the barrel before you tighten the barrel vice up.

I ended up getting the resin from a sporting goods store; a resin bag like ball players use. Hope that helps. nhk
 
mike in co said:
i have an action wrench, and a bbl vice, the bbl vice uses wood blocks or i can custom cut from al plate tightened with two nuts, just ovr 1" dia studs.. the action wrench is an external up around the frt of the action.
this is the second bbl i have not been able to remove in this set up.
it is a interarms mark x in 7x57, ( commercial 98 mauser action).
the bbl need repolishing and/or maybe blued, its going back on...so cannot screw it up.


extent the studs( newr/longer) and add aq hydraulic jack ?

i spent three years colleting part puting the rifle back together, it shoots, so its time to "finish" the rifle( the bbl had been sanded on aqnd scratched)

thanks
mike in co
Click to expand...

Mike,

I struggled terribly with the first few barrels I removed, then I got set up.

I frequently have to machine 2" cubic T6061 blocks in a 4 jaw to fit certain bbl contours, then I slit them in the mill with a slitting saw.

Drill the hole the size of the bbl measured 2" from the action, measure the major dia and calculate the angle in degrees and bore the aluminum blocks to fit the bbl with a boring bar and compound rest.

With he factory 700's I have been warming them up with a propane torch to soften the adhesive...bout 300 degrees makes a big difference.

I use a Story Barrel vise, and it breaks anything so far.
 

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yep its slipping in the bbl vice.
had strips of thin soft lead, no help
i do have a chunk of al alloy, and have done that before.
lucky its a simple straight hole as the bbl is not tappered at thit point.

maybe sporting goods is the next stop.

thanks

mike in co
 
Mike

No doubt the lead did not work, it has zero gripping power, as it just displaces with very little tensil strength.

Machine a bushing that fits your vice on the OD and bored to fit your barrel diameter with about .010 clearance.

Clean the barrel with alchohol, then wrap a layer of note pad paper around the barrel between the barrel and the bushing. Insert into vice, and tighten as tight as you dare. That should do it.........jackie
 
I wounder if you could glass the bushing to that barrel with no release agent.
Then heat to remove.

Of course that won't help putting the barrel back on.

Glenn
 
Mike,

I fought and fought and fought with a 700 one day, despite the fact that I have a good wrench and vise, and bored bushings. The barrel was slipping and when it wasn't, the wrench was slipping. ONLY after I took everything apart and acetoned and re-rosined the snot out it, was I able to get that bugger off.

Justin
 
I tried wooden blocks, it was not the best. Seemed to me lots of force
was applied at 12 and 6 o'clock. As the pressure was increased, contact
on the sides was lost. I copied the large vise sold by brownells and have
no further problems with slipage. The fear of turning a barrel into an oval
lets me sleep better. I have had a few Rems that wouldn't break loose,
even with a cheater bar.They didn't slip, I just couldn't find enough
horsepower. Just turned the lug off and split it with a parting tool.
 
Rem 700

Zebra13 said:
Mike,

I fought and fought and fought with a 700 one day, despite the fact that I have a good wrench and vise, and bored bushings. The barrel was slipping and when it wasn't, the wrench was slipping. ONLY after I took everything apart and acetoned and re-rosined the snot out it, was I able to get that bugger off.

Justin
Click to expand...

I think they torque the barrel with 10 lawyers standing on a cheater bar and glue it for good measure. I tried putting the action and barrel in the freezer, then heating it with a hair dryer. Finally I got enough grip on the barrel to use a cheater and it broke loose. When I assemble one I use anti-sieze and a 'conservative' amount of torque. Look at the 'Switch barrel torque' thread on this site. There is a wide range of opinion on that. nhk
 
nhkuehl said:
I think they torque the barrel with 10 lawyers standing on a cheater bar and glue it for good measure. I tried putting the action and barrel in the freezer, then heating it with a hair dryer. Finally I got enough grip on the barrel to use a cheater and it broke loose. When I assemble one I use anti-sieze and a 'conservative' amount of torque. Look at the 'Switch barrel torque' thread on this site. There is a wide range of opinion on that. nhk
Click to expand...

And those 10 lawyers are fat bastards, too.

I tried a heat gun.
I tried a heat gun and soaking the threads in Kroil.
I tried a 6 pack of Firestone DBA.
I tried language that would make a sailor blush.

The major degreasing is what did it. The Firestone helped.

Justin
 
With these tools I have so far not had a problem removing factory barrels. As Jackie stated wrap the barrel with a piece of note paper and if for insurance some powdered rosin and it shouldn’t slip. The oak blocks were cut slightly under a Remington Varmint barrel contour, and one other set is for LV size barrels. I use the large rubber mallet to tap the stubborn barrels but all come loose without slipping.

Rick
 

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Forget about wooden blocks. They were the first type I used 40 years ago and only a couple of times... my first priority was to build a good vise and a couple of wrenches.

I made a vise that has never failed. I have bushingS turned with very little clearance and I use powered rosin in them. They never mark a barrel. Jackie's method works too.

VISE
barrelvise-0.jpg


EXTERNAL WRENCH
externalwrench-0.jpg

REMINGTON 700 WRENCH
wrench-0.jpg
 
Dennis,
I like your rear entry action wrench. If you don't mind I may copy it. Do you use an air wrench with that thing? Looks like it'd work well that way.
 
External wrench

Dennis,

Could you post a picture of your external wrench on an action... I'm not picturing how that works. Thanks. nhk
 
Dennis,

What material do you make your bushings out of? I'm currently using aluminum. Is there something better?

Justin
 
thanks guys...great ideas.

i'll make a pair of al alloy blocks..clean and paper...but long term is to make a HEAVY bench bbl vise.
thanks
mike in co
 
The internal wrench is used with a 24 inch old barrel or a torque wrench... you should not use an impact wrench on an action...

The external wrench is for flat actions, some shotgun actions, and for Mauser 98 type actions... not round actions.

Plain old steel is the best to make bushings from.
 
Put a wrap or two of drywall paper around the barrel, this works very well to keep it from slipping.
 
barrel removal

I tried a heat gun.
I tried a heat gun and soaking the threads in Kroil.
I tried a 6 pack of Firestone DBA.
I tried language that would make a sailor blush.

The major degreasing is what did it. The Firestone helped.

Zebra
Dont under estimate the usage of language that would make a sailor blush :D
 
External wrench

Dennis Sorensen said:
The external wrench is for flat actions, some shotgun actions, and for Mauser 98 type actions... not round actions.
Click to expand...

Duh :eek:, I guess I was having a senior moment and not thinking outside the box. Thanks. nhk
 
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