BAT Trigger Hangers

I agree Dick. Just before I read your post here I thought, " Wouldn't it be better if Jewel offered a selection of Sear Lever lengths"? It should be absolutely simple of them to offer them for sale, after all, they are the ones who cut them to size. What might be an appropriate length difference for a selection< .010, .020, .025, .040, .050? Would that cover it? I wouldn't mind having another .025 fall on my B.

The simplest way to take care of firing pin fall is in the trigger hanger. As a matter of fact, the Farley Black Widow action comes with an adjustable trigger hanger. It's a pretty simple set up. The front of the trigger hanger is drilled and tapped for a set screw, the holes in the trigger hanger where the hanger mounts to the underside of the action are slotted. You adjust the set screw to give the amount of firing pin fall that you want and make sure that the trigger hanger screws are locked down tightening the trigger hanger to the action. Of course, the slot in the bottom of the action isn't a tight fit with the trigger hanger back and forth to allow for movement of the trigger hanger.
 
Pete
As I understand it that is the problem, they do offer a variety of "Sear Lever Lengths", however you have no choice of what you get. Perhaps Jewel makes the sears by hand and that accounts for the variations. I certainly do not want to bad mouth Jewel triggers as I love them, all my rifles use them, but as I understand it the sear engagement point vary's enough that trigger timing is often necessary.
Dick

It's hard to imagine a company making anything out of metal today that isn't made with a Computer Controled Machine, in which case, they could make any size anything they program the machine to do. It is also difficult to imagine non-standardization on an item like the triger sear lever from the premier trigger maker in the us.
 
Has anyone had some trigger sear variation for the same trigger makes? Jewell? Shilen? Kelbly? I havent seen this as of yet. Lee
 
There was a time when there were reports of Jewel triggers having significant variation, and given their popularity, this was probably the driving force behind action manufacturers making the various hangers to compensate.
 
let me ask this. if at one time your rifle shot well and then shoots bad. is that ever a time to change hangers to see if it will get better? or is the hanger thing something that if its "wrong" at the get go and something that doesnt all of a sudden needs changing?

sorry but that doesnt even make since to me but maybe it will for someone else :)

i have a DS model and have never put the other one in to see if it is a difference. because i have had decent matches the BAD matches
 
Recently, a friend had just such an experience. He moved the trigger back, and the rifle shot better. It was an early production sear length issue that was fixed, but the difference in striker fall did show up on the target after the trigger was moved back to compensate.
 
I don't know Jack about welding, etc but may it be possible to ass a bit of some kind of hard metal to an existing seat lever to increase it's length without taking the temper out of it?
 
There was a time when there were reports of Jewel triggers having significant variation.......

On the one I had issues with, the upper lever (#6) wouldn't physically engage the sear (#5), despite maximum sear engagement adjustment provided by the adjusting screw. The engagement 'tip' of the upper lever was the correct length, but the overall length of the lever was too short, allowing the engagement 'tip' to ride up and over the sear surface.

jewell_1.gif
 
Al,
I think that the issue that lead to different hangers, had to do with the top lever (#11), and variations in the dimension from the center of the pivot at the front, to the angled surface at its rear that serves to stop the cocking piece.
 
Al,
I think that the issue that lead to different hangers, had to do with the top lever (#11), and variations in the dimension from the center of the pivot at the front, to the angled surface at its rear that serves to stop the cocking piece.

Boyd, you're correct.

I posted to illustrate other issues that hangar position doesn't resolve and many don't investigate.

Good shootin'. -Al
 
When you start closing the bolt handle slowly, the handle will stop after the cam, during the cam the firing pin will move quite a bit. At this 'halfway' point measure the distance from the back of the pin to back of the shroud. Then move the handle all the way down and measure again. You will notice it has moved slightly.


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