Baity rimfire action

[Slick Willy]

Folks that deal with 40X`s know about the middle screw! Every body has not dealt with the 3 screw dilema,I have owning 50 plus of them and was not aware of this until I started Benchrest shooting in 2008,The solution might be send 2 action screws with the action ,the guy that bedded the rifle knew not to use 3 but owner insisted. It may not be the problem,I`m sure it is a simple fix!

 

[Fred J]

I found that out in 1969 when I purchased my 1st 40XB. People thought I was crazy when I took the middle screw out. They changed their tune when that 40XB became the hottest smoke pole around. In todays arena, I think that enlarging the middle hole and tap it the same as the front screw and floating the tang might be the way to go. If I ever get my hands on this new action, that's the way I would do it.

PS:
I saw an Anny do this at the ARA Nationals, and they found that the Bolt Release was peening the bolt and making it drag. They stoned it and the problem went away. Could it be the same here?

 

[Pete Wass]

It wouldn't hurt anything

if some written instructions were included with a new action and the three screw thing pointed out, eh? There are a few enterprising souls out there, I'm willing to bet, who want to "Do their Own". T'would save them a lot of Tums if it were spelled out up front.

Regarding Complex bolt and firing mechanisms: I don't see any reason to make something so complex there is concern about "The AverageGuy' taking it apart. What about cleaning it? Shouldn't an owner be able to take a bolt apart to clean it without having to go to the Colorado Gunsmithing School first?

 

[Don Stith]

if some written instructions were included with a new action and the three screw thing pointed out, eh? There are a few enterprising souls out there, I'm willing to bet, who want to "Do their Own". T'would save them a lot of Tums if it were spelled out up front.

Regarding Complex bolt and firing mechanisms: I don't see any reason to make something so complex there is concern about "The AverageGuy' taking it apart. What about cleaning it? Shouldn't an owner be able to take a bolt apart to clean it without having to go to the Colorado Gunsmithing School first?

This is the easiest bolt to disassemble and put back together I have ever seen. No special tools nor herculean hand strength needed. I have not seen the redesign but understand it is even easier. I refuse to take 40x, Turbo or Hall bolts apart. Too much aggravation.
The 3 screw deal should be obvious to anyone with any bedding experience. Nothing is completely fool proof and no amount of writing will preclude some one having to learn the hard way.
Leaving the rear action screw too long is obvious because it keeps you from opening the bolt, or even getting it in to start with. An overly long center screw can retrict free movement of the bolt. The front screw being too long is the more difficult to recognize because it just keeps you from fully seating the action in the bedding, but really hurts performance. I prefer using the front two screws and floating the tang, because this seems to be less sensitive to action screw torque settings. My Hall sporter was built by Bill Myers. He added the action screw between the trigger and magazine and did not use the rear tang screw. The Baity design allows you to use the set up you personally prefer, without having to do machine work yourself.

 

[Pete Wass]

Don, I agree

This is the easiest bolt to disassemble and put back together I have ever seen. No special tools nor herculean hand strength needed. I have not seen the redesign but understand it is even easier. I refuse to take 40x, Turbo or Hall bolts apart. Too much aggravation.
The 3 screw deal should be obvious to anyone with any bedding experience. Nothing is completely fool proof and no amount of writing will preclude some one having to learn the hard way.
Leaving the rear action screw too long is obvious because it keeps you from opening the bolt, or even getting it in to start with. An overly long center screw can retrict free movement of the bolt. The front screw being too long is the more difficult to recognize because it just keeps you from fully seating the action in the bedding, but really hurts performance. I prefer using the front two screws and floating the tang, because this seems to be less sensitive to action screw torque settings. My Hall sporter was built by Bill Myers. He added the action screw between the trigger and magazine and did not use the rear tang screw. The Baity design allows you to use the set up you personally prefer, without having to do machine work yourself.

With all you have said . I looked back to their website and it does say there that there are three screws and there for the option.

Not having seen the bolt, and only reading someone's concern about the bold is where my comment on it came from. I still think a bolt should be designed with cleaning in mind and without sending it to or taking it to a Gunsmith to get it done. Three screws does not sound like a big deal to me.

 

[Kent Owens]

I took the bolt apart and changed firing pin springs and firing pins on my Falcon action at the Mid Atlantic Regionals between targets during a live match. It was brand new and I was setting up the ignition as I shot the match. Never was a problem being ready before the commence fire command for the next target.
The bolt was designed to be user friendly and so that the use of pin punches, hammers, vices, etc. would not be required to disassemble, so a rimfire rilfe smith could vary firing pin spring tension, change firing pins and experiment with different FP tip shapes. It was not a COPY of anything else out there.
They did include an instruction sheet with the actions.
I got a call from a gunsmith yesterday telling me how easy it was to take apart and setup, and that he really liked the idea.
When I first saw the design, I said a good rimfire smith would really apreciate it, and that the novice wouldn't know the difference, except that it was different. Of course novices shouldn't be taking actions apart, or their watches, or micro waves, TVs, car engines, etc. if you know what I mean.

 

[Pete Wass]

I took the bolt apart and changed firing pin springs and firing pins on my Falcon action at the Mid Atlantic Regionals between targets during a live match. It was brand new and I was setting up the ignition as I shot the match. Never was a problem being ready before the commence fire command for the next target.
The bolt was designed to be user friendly and so that the use of pin punches, hammers, vices, etc. would not be required to disassemble, so a rimfire rilfe smith could vary firing pin spring tension, change firing pins and experiment with different FP tip shapes. It was not a COPY of anything else out there.
They did include an instruction sheet with the actions.
I got a call from a gunsmith yesterday telling me how easy it was to take apart and setup, and that he really liked the idea.
When I first saw the design, I said a good rimfire smith would really apreciate it, and that the novice wouldn't know the difference, except that it was different. Of course novices shouldn't be taking actions apart, or their watches, or micro waves, TVs, car engines, etc. if you know what I mean.

Thank You for this great explanation.

 

[crappie]

The Baity's rimfire action looks interesting but maybe someone can tell me, it looks like it only has one locking lug and i thought it was supposed to be better for squareness to have 2?

 

[Kent Owens]

It has two lugs 90 degrees apart. Lapped to the action recesses.

 

[cpeters]

Kent,
I appreciate all of your answers and experiences with the Falcon. I have been spoiled with loading shooting Anschutz 54 and Swindlehurst actions. How does the Falcon compare to these in loading.

Also since I have never seen the bolt assembly exploded view, are there any mechanical design concerns of 12 oclock vs 6 oclock firing pin positon(one appearing more reliable mechanically than the other), other than the percieved performance advantage we have heard so much about. In other words is one the better design and the second position a compromise in design? Maybe compromise is too strong of a word but you know what I mean.

Thanks in advance. I value your opinion.
Charlie

 

[Kent Owens]

Charlie,
As for a mechanical/reliability factor, there should be no difference from a 12 oclock firing pin or a 6 oclock firing pin design. The parts are the same, just the firing pin is in a different location.
This Falcon I've been shooting loads very easily, I just lay a round on the trough and close the bolt. The sporter version I've been working with is also easy to hand feed.
The bolt is flat bottomed and a trough is milled into the feedramp similar to the other custom actions. The Suhls and 1907 Anschutz'es lead the easy to load category and both designs have extractors positioned at 10 oclock and 2 oclock positions which allow a ''V" shaped loading trough and a shallow "V" shaped bolt bottom and nothing else but that design will load as easily.
Don't know anything about the Swindlehursts, except I think they were an open top design, and were nice looking. A couple of friends of mine owed them for a short while got rid of 'em. I don't think they're made any longer.
Charlie, give me a call, and if I can answer any of your questions, I will.