Any tips on glueing Panda into stock.

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rooshooter

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I have decided to glue my Panda action into my Tracker stock. The action is currently screwed into place over regaular bedding material. Does anyone have any tips they would like to share. What is the best sort of glue? I cant get JB Weld in my area, will Araldite 2 part epoxy be OK? I hope I dont have to dig all the old bedding material out to get to the wood or aluminium base, can I just glue the aluminium action onto the existing bedding material? Do you only bed the bottom of the action, even when I am swinging heavy 30" barrels off it?
 
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Screw It and Glue It

There is no reason why you still can't use the screws after you glue it in, 30 inches of barrel is a lot. Just lightly snug them for a little added insurance.

Several of my Benchrest Rifles are screwed, and glued.

As for the glue, I use JB Weld. It will stick to just about anything that is grease free and clean. Plenty strong, and will loose it's '
"goody" when heat is applied if you ever want to take it apart.

Also, if the existing bedding is good, just rough it up with some sand paper, de-grease and clean it, and just glue to it.

The secret to any good glue job is the prep. Things have to be clean. Do that, and everything shouls work fine.......jackie
 
rooshooter said:
I have decided to glue my Panda action into my Tracker stock. The action is currently screwed into place over regular bedding material. Does anyone have any tips they would like to share. What is the best sort of glue? I cant get JB Weld in my area, will Araldite 2 part epoxy be OK? I hope I dont have to dig all the old bedding material out to get to the wood or aluminium base, can I just glue the aluminium action onto the existing bedding material? Do you only bed the bottom of the action, even when I am swinging heavy 30" barrels off it?
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Couple of things. Like Jackie says, just snug the screws. About 15 in/lb on the rear screw and about 35-50 in/lb or thereabouts on the main screws.
If you tighten the screws too much you can still distort the action.

And, on an aluminum action, especially if it is very old, use something like 600 grit or 0000 steel wool to get the aluminum oxide off.
A very competent stock builder I know uses about 90 grit to get a good grip (below the stock line). He beds and glues with Devcon F.
 
Thanks for the tips. I didnt think about getting the aluminium oxide off first. At the moment ,only the front and rear screws are being used, but others have recommended fitting the middle screw as well, so I will have to get someone else to pillar this one for me.
Thanks
 
As for getting the old bedding out, don't. The best way to start from scratch is to put a couple of layers of electrical tape around the action, use release agent, then bed it. After this bedding, take the tape off, lightly sand the bedding & clean everything, then glue.

So, if your current bedding is good, just take off a slight bit with some 80-grit sandpaper, you just saved a step.

As for epoxies, I've head from a couple of professional gunsmiths that Devcon Aluminum is some of the the strongest stuff you can get. I like to bed with Marine Tex & glue with JB, but I'd have no worries using Marine Tex as a gluing agent either. Failing these, any good epoxy should work fine if, as Jackie says, you do a good job prepping.
 
Devon F (Devcon Aluminum) is available from Graingers and others. I think Bruno's may have it too. I know Lester had JB Weld in the Industroweld product.

Don't use JB Weld 5-minute or any 5-minute epoxy for action bedding. The 5-minute stuff will hold till it gets hot, as in a car trunk or dark colored truck cab.
 
I can't remember now, but *somebody* was asking about this sort of thing & thought their old screw-but-no-glue bedding might have been ruined by solvents. Above (or below, depending) I said you don't have to take out your old epoxy bedding when gluing. Of course, that's not true if the old bedding is in poor shape, as it *might* be from being soaked in solvent.
 
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