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You are right. My apologies.

Unless I'm missing something the firing pin of a Remington does not rotate. It's pinned to the cocking piece which rides in the trigger side plates. No rotation.

I think you are better off with a small magnetic parts tray like is sold for mechanics. I want the bullet to be just as it came out of the box and not have been put into and out of a hole in some piece of material that might damage the bullet or wipe off any of the lube or put grit onto the bullet.

I have done this with one 40X bbl. I also used a PacNor nut instead of a torque shoulder so I can adj the headspace easily. Unfortunately the bbl was a bit of an unknown and didn't shoot up to snuff even after messing with the leade and redoing the crown which has always worked in the past.

You should thread the hole for the "front trigger guard screw " to 1/4-28 just like the 2 action screws. This would allow the option of using this screw as the rear action screw and floating the tang and not using an action screw in the rear hole.

It seems like there are way more contentious personalities on the rimfire side of the game as compared to the centerfire side. At least on the internets. Never seen anything but super nice people at matches.

Thanks for the info. Just what I am looking for.

I have 1000 AGBR targets on the shelf and a Daystate CRX in a custom metal BR stock in the safe so I know what BR is [ not to mention 2 Halls, a 40X , a Suhl , a KK200 Walther rimfires: 30BR Viper, 6Beggs 40X cf. ]. I started this thread to hopefully get some discussion about air rifle building...

Somebody explain to me how you remove burrs on the side of the lands with a hob .

Every bbl I've ever cleaned up with the split arbor immediately shot much better than it did before. Typically the bbl with burrs will shoot pretty good but throw 8s and even 7s out there with no warning. After getting rid of the burrs a bad miss would be a 9 that wouldn't plug a 10 [ RBA target...

Once I've removed the burrs I used flitz on a patch to bring the area to a high polish. I call these burrs "boat paddles" because of what they look like when you follow the land back to the burr which flares out from the land.

I use a split arbor and worn 600 paper. In my experience this is way more common than most people think. This is why access to a bore scope is essential to a serious RF shooter. Having your bullet torn up right at the start is detrimental to accuracy.

Has anybody ever tried this ? They make a 20" twist 22 short bbl liner that would be interesting as an airgun bbl. My victim would be a Daisy 880 Powerline multipump bb gun. The liner is only slightly larger than the factory bbl. I would need to turn the breech end so it would be a precision...

Making sleeves on the lathe is a normal operation for me. I have bought a lot of used tuners in the past. Usually they are thicker than this example more along the lines of putting a .900 tuner on an .850 bbl.

And unless he suffers from flag blindness he will win some targets occasionally.

Numrich used to sell a couple of different universal trigger guards that could be modified to fit a lot of different applications. I may have bought them out over the past years :)

The Annie 64s that shoot in our club's unsanctioned matches regularly shoot 220 to 235 on the RBA target at 50 yards. That's good enough to win the Bipod class. In sanctioned matches you will be finishing well towards the back against the other rifles on the firing line. I hear tales of 64s that...

He got his real craziness out of his system early. You guys only got to see the tame stuff :) Blown fuel Pontiac.

That one is not lightweight. With the 5oz tuner on the end of the bbl it's 13.5 exactly. There are lots of places to mill away material but the tuner makes me need all the butt weight I can get. It shot very well.

There's all sorts of 'mad science' stuff goes on at club matches.