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Hi Mike, I picked one up and have decide to rebarrel it into something else. I agree it's an improvement of the 788 in some respects. Do you or anyone else know how to change the firing pin spring? Getting the firing pin assembly is easy, but there's nothing explaining changing the spring out...

Best definition so far! I've seen it happen. You also get to shoot and get wet in the rain. No covered benches. Also known as "Belly Benchrest". A typical IBS light gun from pics I've seen are essentially what looks like an Open F-Class rifle these days. A slight mod to the front rest feet for...

Interesting stuff. I remember reading that some BR shooters buy barrels in batches test them and only keep the hummers. As Wilbur said, I also believe from my own testing in F-Class that some barrels are mediocre and some excel. Cartridge and bullet design combined with the correct throat, lead...

I'm thinking of experimenting with it local matches first. It's not that I can't turn necks, but if Norma necks have less than .0005 runout I'd like to see if it makes any real world difference with turned .220 Russian and fireformed Lapua vs 6PPC Norma unturned. Just wondering if the .268 -...

Anyone try this yet? I see it listed at PT&G. Was wondering how good Norma or Lapua brass is with a no neck turn chamber. What are the best specs for the chamber to work well?

I've seen K31's, Mausers, Carcanos and Lee Enfields using barrel stubs to make bushings. Not saying this is ideal for best accuracy, but is usually done to save money or not machining intricate breech faces [aka K31]. Don't know the best diameters, but let's say 3/4". Turn the tenon and...

My best groups have been with CCI 450, Varget and 105 Berger in a 1-8" Broughton barrel.

Yes, that's the exact one I'm looking for Del. Seen lots of 40X, but none of the 40XBR.

Thanks Ed. Yes I'd like the original wood stock, but the green benchrest stock would be fine.

Remington 40XBR .222 Been searching for one of the Mike Walker classics in original factory or close condition. These must be hard to find as I don't see any of them up in Canada for sale. Anyway to go about finding one?

I agree with Jackie and proved it for myself. Unless you clean up the existing crooked chamber that reamer will continue to follow the same course. Since everyone is using some sort of floating reamer design it's a guarantee that reamer will follow the old chamber.

I made one similar to Mike's too. I'm still not certain which one I like better. Time will tell with more setups. I'm no expert here. Either way the front and rear of the action bore have to line up.

I just made another one that I like. It's 6" long x 2.7" wide from mild steel, bored out to 1.6". 12 Holes are spaced 4" and 5" apart being .500" from each end. Screws are 5/16" x 24 tpi bored out to take brass tips. It's solid and works, but I'm not sure I need that much rigidity.

Thanks and yes that's an old photo. The screws have been changed so I can close the whole gear cover. I don't fancy the idea of gears spinning in the open either. I'm in the process of fitting a taper attachment to it as we speak. This lathe was a well cared for hospital maintenance machine...

One of these days I'll get out of the Stone Age and get me a DRO. ;) Still calculating everything by dials on the Bridgeport and SB via old school.

I suppose the D1-4 cat head would be ideal for those who don't have a rotary table and mill. Easy enough to make if you do. Am curious to see a D1-4 Action Spider.

Same here. A reground cemented carbide tipped boring tool. You can always run a 5/8" dia. end mill and finish with the boring tool, but I predrill the chamber first and always have enough room for the boring tool to cut the recess.

Since we're talking about 4 Jaw chucks, I'm in the market to get a top quality 4 Jaw. I have a Yuasa 3 Jaw 'Accuchuck" which still continues to serve me well. My old 4 Jaw has seen better days. One jaw screw was reefed on by a previous owner and as a result will wobble .006" six inches out from...

I tried the above setup in various ways and found the simplest was a mandrel with a taper or ball end screwed into the back of the bolt. This allowed the rear of the bolt to tip and conform to the steady rest. I found between the nose, firing pin hole and the bolt rear there was too much...

Some good tips there Chip. I watched a CNC lathe on youtube [can't remember which one] where the RPM's increased as the tool worked it's way to the center. The feed stayed the same. On a Broughton I recently installed, it actually said to not part the barrel, but bandsaw cut instead. I've...