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The High Temp Stainless :cool:

On Stainless I use the Teflon Dope and it has never galled the threads on me yet. Even when the two parts are tightened close to the breaking point, I was able to get them back apart without any galling. I havent used the tape on threads, but it is supposed to work the same way. When I am...

+1 I have used this stuff for 3 years and it works great. Teflon Pipe Dope also works very well.

Now this is the best solution yet........

I believe what they mean is that in comparison to the .22-250, you can see your shots. They say the same thing about the .223. Every Varmint cartridge gets compared to the .22-250 in some way. The .223 doesn't shoot as flat, and the .204 isn't as good in the wind, but there are rifles to be...

I will go in a completely different direction and make a suggestion for the Tikka Varmint Stainless in .22-250. Tikka's are made by Sako, and have the best factory barrels I have ever seen. The trigger works very well, and that model has the option of a single-set trigger. You can easily add...

The brass with the small flash hole and minimal capacity.

Based on my exp. with the .223, get a 1-9" twist. It will shoot any of the 52-53gr match bullets very well at 100 yds., and the 69gr bullets out at 300. They also shoot fairly well up close. A box of Nosler 52gr and one of the 69gr Competition bullets, and a pound of H4895 will drastically...

I would definitely switch to a slower powder like H4831. Also try H4831SC as well. It seems to be more accurate in some rifles. Re22 works well, but the lots seem inconsistent, with some being closer to Re19 in burn rate. Just be careful when trying a new lot, if thats the powder you choose. My...

I don't get that carried away with it, LOL

I just set up the flags and the timer and treat it like Im shooting a match. 5 shots in 2 minutes is plenty of time to keep it cool, get some practice over the flags, and test some loads.

Thanks Guys! Hope you find it useful ;)

The topic concerned External ballistics, but then you knew that.................... And with all the talk about Humidity and Altitude and how it can affect groups, it seems someone is concerned about it.

For most people, the term "Humidity" should equate to how much water is in the air. In real practice, that's just not the case. Making tuning calculations based on Humidity can give you misleading results because Humidity only gives you a vague idea of how much water is in the air, and just how...

IMHO, it's not worth the trouble to take the barrel back off, and extend the throat because you may well end up causing more problems than you're trying to fix. If the new throat is not concentric with both the bore and chamber, that will be a problem. Is there really even a problem to begin...

It works very well on carbon. Of all the cleaners I have used, it removes carbon better than anything else. One thing you should be aware of though, is that it leaves the bore totally dry. After patching it out, there will be absolutely no residue left in the bore. Im not sure how this would...

You've got mail old dood.

I use electrical tape to hold the wires because it is much more flexible than other types of tape. I lay all three wires on one end of the tape, side by side, then remove the middle wire and set it on the other end of the tape. Fold it to hold the wires, and then you can hold them with one...

I used the Tubb kit on my Savage in .223 and had mixed results. I used the whole kit. First, because the instructions said to, and second, because I have a borescope and saw the exact same tooling pattern in my barrel. Ugly to say the least. Little did I know at the time, the appearance of the...

I used 24.9grs of H4895, Fed 205M primers, Sierra 69gr bullet, seated .010 from rifling. That load produced many sub .3 5 shot groups. H4895 produced much better velocity and accuracy in my Savage.