Ultimate front spider.

That said.....I do use 4ga copper wire sometimes in screws and a LOT for wrapping barrels at the pivot point. I have a tapered rod set up by my vise where I wrap coils of the stuff and cut into liddle hogrings of copper...
 
Butch Lambert said:
Al, I just posted links. You gonna have to do the rest.
Click to expand...

Yeahhh, I did, been doin' same for the aforementioned 20yrs, been in Home Depot three times this last week......ain't GETTIN' no CU ground rods around here no more. Nor ANYwhere as far as I know...
 
I am in the process of threading a LV barrel for a tuner, just want to share another spider (Dave would be proud of me for recessing the spider screws.) Found this extra thick backplate on rBay with D1-4 studs already in it, as you can see it is fairly thick for a backplate, but perfect for a spider.

On the brass and copper tips, I bought mine from McMaster Carr, they are fairly straight that I chuck them on the 9x20 lathe and part them.
 

Attachments

  • 20161216_175528.jpg
    20161216_175528.jpg
    1.6 MB · Views: 592
  • 20161216_175904.jpg
    20161216_175904.jpg
    1.5 MB · Views: 489
  • 20161216_180513.jpg
    20161216_180513.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 523
Last edited:
On the manual lathe I'm a big fan of a 6 jaw set-tru type chuck with a ring of #4 copper wire between the jaws and barrel. You set the gripping pressure first and then adjust the runout. You are never fighting yourself with changing pressure on the remaining jacking screws.



I made back in '09 and used it before switching to the 6 jaw. I'll still use it when I need the absolute shortest length. I'm doing something completely different on the turning center but that's top secret.

 
Last edited:
Rubicon,

We all have the proper clearance and the need to know, you can publish your top secret stuff here, the Russians won't hack this site....
 
Al,
My Home Depot no longer carries the solid copper. McMaster Carr does. If you don't do business with them, you should. Always in stock on all items I order, shipping in less than a week, 2% discount paid before 10 days, very cheap shipping, and the easiest website to navigate.
 
Butch Lambert said:
Al,
My Home Depot no longer carries the solid copper. McMaster Carr does. If you don't do business with them, you should. Always in stock on all items I order, shipping in less than a week, 2% discount paid before 10 days, very cheap shipping, and the easiest website to navigate.
Click to expand...

Yes, agreed :)

McMaster Carr and Grainger, if they ain't got betwixt 'em, it you don't need it.
 
I built a 6 screw spider once. It didn't work worth a flip. Four opposing screws work so much better. Same reason as most for using a spider on the front end of the tail stock. Too long in the headstock and a spider in both ends let you indicate in shorter barrels.
 
IMG_0274.JPG, obviously I'll never be a picture poster. I used 4 bolts with swivel pads on them, when they were tightened they lost all swivel ability. May try Nez's approach. Have used the wire approach and it works ok. This is the Chamber Flushing unit I built, and all I have to say is whyintheheckdidntyoutellmethisbefore! Works pretty darn good. My Rotary Union is on an adjustable post, just because, I use a dead mans foot switch and these chambers are beautiful.
 
ranch23 said:
View attachment 18754, obviously I'll never be a picture poster. I used 4 bolts with swivel pads on them, when they were tightened they lost all swivel ability. May try Nez's approach. Have used the wire approach and it works ok. This is the Chamber Flushing unit I built, and all I have to say is whyintheheckdidntyoutellmethisbefore! Works pretty darn good. My Rotary Union is on an adjustable post, just because, I use a dead mans foot switch and these chambers are beautiful.
Click to expand...
Beauteous pic man
 
I used some 3/8-24 set screws 1.5 long and turned a full radius on one end then used a ball mill to cut same radius in some .500 alluminum bar stock and part them off about .200 long for my spider.

Worked very good.
can adjust easy and they pivot great without putting a bind in the barrel.
I figured this because the barrel stayed where it was after all work.

Other methods I've used moved under same loads.

I've tried to upload some pics but they keep failing To upload maybe to many pixles?

I should thank Nez I think it was his setup I expanded on. Or minimized on?
 
Last edited:
Rubicon Prec. said:
On the manual lathe I'm a big fan of a 6 jaw set-tru type chuck with a ring of #4 copper wire between the jaws and barrel. You set the gripping pressure first and then adjust the runout. You are never fighting yourself with changing pressure on the remaining jacking screws.



I made back in '09 and used it before switching to the 6 jaw. I'll still use it when I need the absolute shortest length. I'm doing something completely different on the turning center but that's top secret.

Click to expand...


I'm thinking about going to a 6jaw set tru like your setup, how do you like it compared to the first spider plate you made?
 
Danny1788 said:
I'm thinking about going to a 6jaw set tru like your setup, how do you like it compared to the first spider plate you made?
Click to expand...


Personally, I love it. Since I started using it, I have only used the spider when I needed the absolutely shortest spindle length possible.
 
Thanks for the reply Rubicon, The 6 jaw just seems like a good idea to me. You get good, but not excessive work holding pressure making it ridged setup. You are going to be very close to dialed in probably no need for a .001" dti from the start.
 
Butch Lambert said:
I have absolutely no use for my 6jaw Set Tru check!
Click to expand...

Butch,

No use, or you don't like it? If you don't like it, why?

I love mine. Always thought there was a special place in heaven for the folk who came up with the adjust-thru chuck and the quick-change tool post.

Justin
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top