Ultimate front spider.
- Thread starter Curious
- Start date
Dude's contention that the ring puts the barrel in a bind is whack. He made a nice spider, at first blush I'd trust it but it isn't any more stress-free than a ring in a 4-jaw.
Also, my problem with front spiders has ALWAYS been that they tighten up with the bolts randomly seated against the sides of their journals. In my mind they'll most often go with two one way and the opposing two the other way in the static condition, but the chance exists that they can walk to the other side under torsion......IMO they MUST do in most cases. Therefore I prefer the ring.
zfastmalibu
New member
I can promise you its stress free, while the ring is not. Can you indicate your barrel in using a copper ring and then completely loosen the outboard spider without the barrel moving? Try it and let me know. With this chuck I use the outboard spider as a pusher. The barrel is indicated exactly how I want it before any of the outboard spider screws are tightened. They are just used to support the muzzle, not to hold or force it into position. The other benefit of eliminating the copper is there is nothing soft to compress. I dont see any movement during chambering, when I used the ring method I'd check and see .0002"-.0005" of movement at times during chambering and I would have to re indicate. If I didnt find shortcomings with the ring I never would have looked for something better.
Your "promise" doesn't exactly still my palpitating heart, sorry.....
Of course I've tried it, I don't speculate nor do I comment on things I haven't tested without saying "I speculate such and such."
You finding shortcomings with the ring is an indicator of your abilities, not an indictment on the system. If you're the guy in the video, you don't know how to use the ring.
I could explain to you how to test both methods against each other without any influence from the support or outboard spider at all but I feel it would be perceived as confrontational or argumentative, an attempt to "support" a method other than your spider. I have interest only in facts and reason, not arguments.
"I can explain it to you, but I can't understand it for you"
zfastmalibu
New member
Cool, no problem. I agree with you, in that I dont speculate either. I have tested the 4 jaw with copper ring, as well as a chuck with swiveling steel feet. So no speculation here. I know how they both perform. Have a good one.
Safety Issue
I have seen a lot pictures of front spiders and action truing fixtures that are all very well designed except for one feature, bolt heads. To me bolts sticking out of a rotating mass along with hands or long sleeve shirts don't mix. I would rather see the bolts replaced with socket headed set screws that are flush or below flush.
I have seen a lot pictures of front spiders and action truing fixtures that are all very well designed except for one feature, bolt heads. To me bolts sticking out of a rotating mass along with hands or long sleeve shirts don't mix. I would rather see the bolts replaced with socket headed set screws that are flush or below flush.
The spider in the vid addresses this.....and it is truly a beautiful thing. I really want one
In point of fact, I've got a series of plans drawn up with offset holes to address the problem I ref'd earlier and may just someday make one with a series of jackscrews, something suitable for truing tubular sections.The offset holes would be set to the driving side so's they tighten up under load like a chinese finger ring....
I can honestly say I've never chambered a barrel this way....
Pete Wass
Well-known member
Not much "Stick Out"
I have seen a lot of criticism of various setups about stick out onhere in the past. This one surely minimizes it.
Pete
I have seen a lot of criticism of various setups about stick out onhere in the past. This one surely minimizes it
.Pete
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cloudrepair
Guest
Mine is much like the one in the vid but I do have set screws that will stick out,
I put jam nuts on them that minimise the hazards but that isn't there purpose.
Operating a engine lathe for many years in job shops you learn to keep clear of the spinning hazards. Anyone running lathe should be aware of all the safety practises.
And when a job needs to be done some times you don't always have the best material for the fixtures so you become even more aware of the possible hazards.
And by the way I have used many four jaw,spiders/cathead ,set true chucks and I have got the best results out of my front spider/cathead then all of them. brass tipped screws, copper rings,bushings and others.
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Accidents Happen
View at you own risk. Be careful running equipment.
http://www.riverdavesplace.com/foru...gh-lathe-Don-t-click-if-you-don-t-want-to-see.
View at you own risk. Be careful running equipment.
http://www.riverdavesplace.com/foru...gh-lathe-Don-t-click-if-you-don-t-want-to-see.
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cloudrepair
Guest
And that happened without jaws sticking out,setscrews, bolt heads.
I have seen a lot of criticism of various setups about stick out onhere in the past. This one surely minimizes it
Pete
Pete I'm just trying new stuff to better my technique, I like chambering through the head stock and I use a flush system. Ive had one barrel slip on me, the barrel didn't have very long shank and the jack screws of my spider where on the radius of the shank, That was a pain in the ass to say the least. But I really like the looks of this 6jaw set tru setup, looks to be about the same process but you never change the clamping force that is holding the barrel at all.
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cloudrepair
Guest
This is the system is was referring to early in this thread.
finaly got a pic to upload
I have held a barrel on the steepest angle of the
contoure and still held without slipping
Just nice and tight not cranked on
it works without stressing the barrel
and holds secure.
I used a three jaw scroll chuck to hold my front sider
that is just like the outboard.
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cloudrepair
Guest
This is the temporary front one until I get a better one made.
That taper is the one I referred to i had moved barrel up about 1.5" on that tapper to thread and chamber it.
Stayed in .0002 where it started.
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cloudrepair
Guest
View attachment 18922
This is the temporary front one until I get a better one made.
That taper is the one I referred to i had moved barrel up about 1.5" on that tapper to thread and chamber it.
Stayed in .0002 where it started.
This is the temporary front one until I get a better one made.
That taper is the one I referred to i had moved barrel up about 1.5" on that tapper to thread and chamber it.
Stayed in .0002 where it started.
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cloudrepair
Guest
And these are the screws I mentioned.