6ppc reamer

Oh dang it. i guess im in the market for a 6ppc reamer now also. might as well try to get some info while you guys are talking about.
I guess its really best to have my own reamer? that way if i really like it and it works well,i can duplicate it.. i been the route where i trusted the smith and got a good chamber set up and a few years later wanted another one and the reamer was gone.or wasent sure which one it was.
I would like a good chamber that would allow me to push a good load with out sticky cases or pop n primers before i make any velocity(i allready had that chamber).
would like a free bore that would allow me to use a few different bullets, say 66 fowler to a good 68 gr BT. not sure what 68grBT to try?
so any recomendations? what reamer i should buy.
thanks for any help .
 
Last edited:
mark-x said:
Oh dang it. i guess im in the market for a 6ppc reamer now also. might as well try to get some info while you guys are talking about.
I guess its really best to have my own reamer? that way if i really like it and it works well,i can duplicate it.. i been the route where i trusted the smith and got a good chamber set up and a few years later wanted another one and the reamer was gone.or wasent sure which one it was.
I would like a good chamber that would allow me to push a good load with out sticky cases or pop n primers before i make any velocity(i allready had that chamber).
would like a free bore that would allow me to use a few different bullets, say 66 flower to a good 68 gr BT. not sure what 68grBT to try?
so any recomendations? what reamer i should buy.
thanks for any help .
Click to expand...

The JGS 1045 is probably the most common 6PPC reamer in use today. It is a 262 neck and 0.060" freebore.
 
You have "BT" there. I assume that you mean "boat tail". Boat tail can be a whole 'nuther realm from a flat base, needing a short free bore.
 
well it does seem there are some differences in chamber dimensions. so is there any that should be stayed away from?
What chamber dimensions should i go with?
Yes i ment 68 gr boat tail. I have been wanting to try some, I just havent decided what ones to try.
but most of the 66-68 gr (7)o bullets are all close to the same length,Right?
Most of the boat tails are a bit shorter,Right?
so say a .045 free bore sould allow you to shoot either.
I dont know what bullet to shoot. i been shooting that 66gr fowler bullet for so long
any time i want to shoot small groups at 100yrds thats the bullet i reach for..
i dont know why they shoot so well, just looking at them you wonder how.
but i have been wanting to try another bullet but dont know what to spend the money on. now 10-12 years ago i had quite a variety of custom's 65-68gr's,thats because i had a ppc rifle that wasent shoot-n- to well so i was trying different stuff.I even had some getner's that you could'ent even get gave to me to try and help my cause.but no good.
 
mark-x said:
well it does seem there are some differences in chamber dimensions. so is there any that should be stayed away from?
What chamber dimensions should i go with?
Yes i ment 68 gr boat tail. I have been wanting to try some, I just havent decided what ones to try.
but most of the 66-68 gr (7)o bullets are all close to the same length,Right?
Most of the boat tails are a bit shorter,Right?
so say a .045 free bore sould allow you to shoot either.
I dont know what bullet to shoot. i been shooting that 66gr fowler bullet for so long
any time i want to shoot small groups at 100yrds thats the bullet i reach for..
i dont know why they shoot so well, just looking at them you wonder how.
but i have been wanting to try another bullet but dont know what to spend the money on. now 10-12 years ago i had quite a variety of custom's 65-68gr's,thats because i had a ppc rifle that wasent shoot-n- to well so i was trying different stuff.I even had some getner's that you could'ent even get gave to me to try and help my cause.but no good.
Click to expand...

No, boat tails are not significantly shorter than flat base bullets, there's just less body to grip on.

With a 0.060" freebore you should be able to effectively shoot 66-68 grain boat tails as long as they are on an 0.825" jacket. The 0.045 would be better for boat tails on the 0.790" jacket.

Why did the old Fowlers shoot so well? Jef knew what was important in making bullets. I've shot a couple of thousand of the "new" Fowlers (Bill Schider now) and they shoot well also. Bill bought most all of Jef's old dies and presses.
 
Thanks jerry, im shooting schider 66gr fowler now just got a new lot of em and yep there shooting well. but i had a old lot that i bought from jeff and they shot in a hole.
some one told me they were not good 200yrd bullets. And i havent shot them enough at 200 to know but what little bit i have they seem good. but i have noticed for some time now that they dont like a tail wind, at least thats my take.
what is the most common jacket .825 or .790
i really dont know what to do. im waiting on a reamer to come in and as soon as i get this one im going to order a ppc reamer.
im going with a .268 neck..not sure what chamber dimensions to ask for, so maybe .050 free bore , i like the shorter freebore, i dont like the bullet only being in the neck enough to hold it, i'd like it to be in half the neck at least.
only reason im going with a .268NK is beacuse thats what my new BR reamer is and might as well keep the turner set up for .011.
but i have turned many(way to many .262's) 2- 6ppc's and a 6BR. and i have a 6BR .269 and just love that. so i will stick with the thicker necks.
 
Last edited:
mark-x said:
Thanks jerry, im shooting schider 66gr fowler now just got a new lot of em and yep there shooting well. but i had a old lot that i bought from jeff and they shot in a hole.
some one told me they were not good 200yrd bullets. And i havent shot them enough at 200 to know but what little bit i have they seem good. but i have noticed for some time now that they dont like a tail wind, at least thats my take.
what is the most common jacket .825 or .790
i really dont know what to do. im waiting on a reamer to come in and as soon as i get this one im going to order a ppc reamer.
im going with a .268 neck..not sure what chamber dimensions to ask for, so maybe .050 free bore , i like the shorter freebore, i dont like the bullet only being in the neck enough to hold it, i'd like it to be in half the neck at least.
only reason im going with a .268NK is beacuse thats what my new BR reamer is and might as well keep the turner set up for .011.
but i have turned many(way to many .262's) 2- 6ppc's and a 6BR. and i have a 6BR .269 and just love that. so i will stick with the thicker necks.
Click to expand...

The most common jacket was 825. I say was because there are some evolutionary changes going on right now as to bullet length and leade shape. This new track hasn't worked itself out just yet. The "old" way works. Will the "new' way be better?? Dunno!!
 
I use the .269 neck on my 6PPC and find it very easy to neck turn. I think the gun shoots as good or better than it did when I used a .262 neck. I use a .285 neck on the .257TED and it also only requires 1 pass on the neck turning tool.
I really don't see any advantage in turning the necks so thin. If they can be cleaned up in one pass then why make 2 or 3 passes?
Ted
 
Lee I am pretty sure what Jack means when he says "cut thin to win" is he is referring to turning necks to give 2-3 thou total clearance over a loaded round be it a .262 or a .269 neck. That will guarantee consistent bullet release.

I have heard this, you know your necks are turned thin enough when after firing a round you can take a bullet and drop it into the mouth of a fired case and the bullet falls into the case.

How many have heard that or have that happen for them?????

What I have noticed with brass that is turned 2-3 thou total clearance I get clear distinct sign wave patterns on the neck of fired brass versus brass that I have 1.5 total.

Calvin
 
Last edited:
this is what happens when idoits take things out of context....
the statement was about necks turning not benchrest in general
if you knew history, you would know that old necks were krap and had to be turned thin to get a good surface..
it aint that way today.

but it is ok.........
you can ignore us.....go turn your nrecks to 250....waste time and brass.
the 269/270 neck was about smarter/easier////without loosing the best of the 6ppc....but you know so much...

go do what you want....
child....speaking of butting out...this aint your thread go away
mike in co
Wildcatter said:
Benchrest was never about easier, it has always been about better, where did you come from??
Click to expand...
 
Calvin

The trend in the past years has been to give a little more clearance to the loaded round in the neck. I used to insist on 1.5, now it is more like .002.

The result is that sine wave pattern down the neck, rather than a ring.

I can't really say that I can see a difference in accuracy, .0015 was doing just fine. But if .002 shoots just as well, why not go with it in the chance that the tighter fit might cause a pressure spike, especially when shooting in the upper load window............jackie
 
The 262 nk. As i remember the old sako brass was a lot thinner. after clean up the ideal size was .0085 allowing enough expansion. I still have some sitting around . It was very very good brass but it had a balloon head . You had to be very careful not to overpressure it. The new Lapua brass is a lot better in many ways. A lot of us are just sticking to the old ways of turning brass and staying with the 262 nk.
 
mike in co said:
but it is ok.........
you can ignore us.....go turn your nrecks to 250....waste time and brass.
the 269/270 neck was about smarter/easier////without loosing the best of the 6ppc....but you know so much...

go do what you want....
child....speaking of butting out...this aint your thread go away
mike in co
Click to expand...

I'm a little slow here. I don't understand why turning brass for a .262nd is a waste of time and harder than turning brass for a .268/.269. If you turn your brass to .0081 or any other dimension for a .262 nd, there is no reason to turn it more than once to attain that measurement. If you can not do it in one pass something is wrong with your method, expanding, turning tool, or speed of turning. :confused:

Later
Dave
 
Last edited:
i did my necks in a single pass with a nice surface...some guys do the 262 in 2 passes...twice the work..
 
Here is another thing i have to keep in mind although i am not so sure it matters much. I have been using the new Norma 6ppc brass and i think it is terrific. I have around 15 reloads on some of this brass and i dont see why it wouldn't go at least 10 more. I really think its the ticket. Everyone talks about ease of turning, but yet the majority of us here still make our brass from 220 Russian. With the 220 Russian i had to fire form that brass at least 2 times before i felt it was ready. With the new norma i fire it once, and i probably dont even have to do that other than the head space is around .007 short of my chambers. So i do feel like i need to blow it out a bit, but one time and its golden. I will also say i have shot groups in the .200's while blowing this norma brass out that .007. As far an turning this brass, it would seem to be no big deal to turn this brass down for a .262 neck as it is something like .265 as it comes. So basically we are just cleaning it up a bit. Seems like a real win win situation to me.
 
Reamer

Skeet,
You can do as Jackie said and load a dummy round with the bullet seated in the case where you want it and send it to Dave Kiff and he will grind the reamer to match that loaded round. I had those reamers made for the Euber's and myself and they worked great. Good Luck!
 
skeetlee said:
Here is another thing i have to keep in mind although i am not so sure it matters much. I have been using the new Norma 6ppc brass and i think it is terrific. I have around 15 reloads on some of this brass and i dont see why it wouldn't go at least 10 more. I really think its the ticket. Everyone talks about ease of turning, but yet the majority of us here still make our brass from 220 Russian. With the 220 Russian i had to fire form that brass at least 2 times before i felt it was ready. With the new norma i fire it once, and i probably dont even have to do that other than the head space is around .007 short of my chambers. So i do feel like i need to blow it out a bit, but one time and its golden. I will also say i have shot groups in the .200's while blowing this norma brass out that .007. As far an turning this brass, it would seem to be no big deal to turn this brass down for a .262 neck as it is something like .265 as it comes. So basically we are just cleaning it up a bit. Seems like a real win win situation to me.
Click to expand...

I have also spent a lot of time testing the new Norma 6ppc brass, and I would not use them unless I got them for free!

OK - thet are easy to neck turn indeed, they perform really well - I have win matches with them. However, when shooting around 30gr +/- of N133 the brass stretches incredibly much. I have observed as much as .002'' per shot which for me means I am not able to get through a normal two gun without shortening the brass. Hell, I might need to cut it during the day and that means they are no good for me. I can add that my die setup is tuned just they way I like it hence that is not the problem. Lapua brass with the same load rarely stretches more than .0005''/shot.

Other than that the brass is just fine but they do not handle the great pressures as great as the .220R does.
 
hopetobe
thanks for the info. I myself have not found this to be the case, but then again i dont or see a need to shoot that hot of a load. I know a lot of fellas do, but i just havent had to. 29.2 is about as high as i have found a need to go. I will still use some Lapua brass, but Norma will be my go to brass until i find a need or reason to stop using the norma brass. its just makes since to me. I am also shooting this 8208 pull down powder, and i have had no trouble. There again i am only loading around 30grains give or take a few tenths. Velocity is right around 3380 to 3400. It shoot good! Hopetobe. I dont doubt your findings one bit at all but i wonder why your brass is stretching so much. If all else is ok, and your primer pockets are ok one would think that the brass is ok. Isnt there another reason for case stretch that needs to be looked into before we can determine its the brass? I dont know myself. Maybe it is the fault of the brass?? Thanks for sharing. lee
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top