6ppc reamer

The one catch with the Norma brass is it is too thin allready if you are running a .269 neck. Might work for a NO turn neck but to clean it up you end up with a lot of neck clearance.

Calvin
 
Lee;
Now that you are educated in what every else prefers are you still looking for a reamer??

Mike Swartz
 
skeetlee said:
Must be ok If Lou Merdica thinks its ok??
Click to expand...

Must it?

To be serious, as I have stated the Norma brass is more than OK - it performs very well. But it has some properties that I do not consider to be on the good side, for me it is actually not making up for the positive sides hence I stick to Lapua still. But perfectly setup and preped as they should be it is hard to tell the difference to Lapua. Get me a free supply of Norma brass and I'll use them exclusively myself... ;)
 
Lou knows his way around a Benchrest Rifle pretty well.

I might get some and try it "no neck turn" in my .269 neck chamber.........jackie
 
Jackie I am shooting a .269 also let me know how that works out.

The next question would be this.
SOSOSOSO many people have stood by the statement that when you expand the necks you have moved all the uneven brass from the inside to the outside.
How much evening up would be necessary if you fire formed it then put pressure on the outside of the neck via neck sizing. Wouldnt that eventually make everything even if it made it even in the first place? If that makes any sense?
 
yes i am still studying reamers. I have a good friend who is going to chamber a barrel for me saturday with kiff reamer. After i shoot this barrel and load some rounds for it, i may make a choice on what reamer deminsions i settle on. lee
 
vern....
since one has a nice thick, steel chamber....and it has a nice round neck...how would one spot allow a thicker spot since it all has the same pressure ?
i agree that inside neck should be as smooth as the outside, but i dont see how the inside can become the outside.
mik ein co
Vern said:
Jackie I am shooting a .269 also let me know how that works out.

The next question would be this.
SOSOSOSO many people have stood by the statement that when you expand the necks you have moved all the uneven brass from the inside to the outside.
How much evening up would be necessary if you fire formed it then put pressure on the outside of the neck via neck sizing. Wouldnt that eventually make everything even if it made it even in the first place? If that makes any sense?
Click to expand...
 
Mike I am not saying it would. More of a question. I have read and heard by so many people in regard to reaming the inside of the neck first that it is unnecessary because in the general opinion that when the case is expanded it makes the inside uniform and therefore there is no need to ream them.
Never made sense to me. I always figured if the outsides were uneven then the insides must be uneven too. But by general opinion I am wrong.
 
vern,
in olden days, lee made a target quality hand loading kit. by cartridge. it contained an inside neck reaming setup.the tool was to be used on fired brass from a given rifle. it is a neck sizer and micometer seater, trim to length, primer pocket cleaner.
i believe at one time the 1000 yd lite gun record was shot with ammo loaded on one of these tools.
i think one of the benefits of a thick neck, is one can start with an inside neck ream, expand and od turn.
mike in co
Vern said:
Mike I am not saying it would. More of a question. I have read and heard by so many people in regard to reaming the inside of the neck first that it is unnecessary because in the general opinion that when the case is expanded it makes the inside uniform and therefore there is no need to ream them.
Never made sense to me. I always figured if the outsides were uneven then the insides must be uneven too. But by general opinion I am wrong.
Click to expand...
 
Although I have owned only two 6PPC reamers, I like the one that I currently use.... a Henriksen that is 1.515 long with .262 neck and .025 freebore. The other was a Pacific Tool that was 1.500 (mistake) long with .263 neck and .045 freebore. If I am not mistaken, Gene Bukys went to a .268 or .269 reamer and then returned to a .262. He may have changed again since I asked him. he seems to shoot well with any reamer. James
 
Vern said:
More of a question. I have read and heard by so many people in regard to reaming the inside of the neck first that it is unnecessary because in the general opinion that when the case is expanded it makes the inside uniform and therefore there is no need to ream them.
Never made sense to me. I always figured if the outsides were uneven then the insides must be uneven too. But by general opinion I am wrong.
Click to expand...
Well, there was at least one old legend, T.J. Jackson, who agreed with you. Except he didn't ream the inside of the neck, he bored them. He was fond of the 6 BR, and had a setup (collet?) to bore the neck on the centerline of the cartridge on a a tool-room quality lathe. Not easy to do.

* * *

The neck diameter one settles on seems the least important of the things to consider to me. As has been said so often, the worst thing a thin neck dos is cause you more work turning brass. My reamer is a .261 neck, and I'd like it bigger. But not enough to buy (and wait for) a new Henriksen reamer.

More important is the base diameter. And the freebore length, which affects bullet selection. Maybe freebore diameter.

Anybody buying reamers is going to have more than one in their lifetime. You'll get some notion about something, and just can't live without trying it out. If there is a "best" set of specifications, people are sure doing a good job keeping it secret.
 
I have 4 reamers, I went to a zero freebore when I started shooting the Bruno 00 BT, just so some of it would be in the case.

I am shooting the Barts 790 BT now, I went to a .045 with it, for the opposite reason, too much bullet in the neck.

I am seriously contemplating a no neck turn, the latest 500 cases I have only exibit about .0005 variation in neck thickness.

I agree with what others have said, wall thickness is what determines uniformity, unless you use some type of single point corrective measure, nothing changes.......jackie
 
I admit it...

This thread has been bothering me for a while now since Boyd asked if my die set up was adjusted for Norma brass being slightly softer than Lapua. Hence I went to the range to day with a bunch of Norma brass all just fired once at a load of 28 gr N133 so it fits my chamber perfectly, then cut back to 1.493'' as I normally do with fresh brass of any kind.

Die adjusted so that I bump shoulder 0.001''. After two fires each of 30 gr N133 the brass was now at 1.494'' which is normal and something I can live with. However, this was with 65 gr BT bullets. 68 gr FB should slightly more stretch - and as I have hinted before - exceeding 30 gr of N133 the stretch really appear. And again, it does stretch MORE than Lapua does under those pressures. Being below - everything is fine.

For some reason it seems to me that the 65 BT bullets were nicer to the brass than the 68 FB (both 7/9 ogival) but I would not expect 2 gr of bullet weight being that much on the margin speaking of pressures?

So my conclusion is still that Norma stretches more than Lapua, especially when entering the area above 30 gr of N133. And also a thank you to Boyd that made my mind spinning over these days - I think I have learnt something during these days despite I'll likely continue to shoot Lapua also for the future.
 
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