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Funny, but also probably true!

I’m certainly not calling you a liar. I appreciate all your posts, regardless if I agree with them or not. They always inspire thinking. Thinking is good!

And just so I’m clear, I’m taking about making a .016” (I actually program .015” because I cut my major smaller than nominal) plunge at the shoulder. Mines not quite a X only plunge (although if you draw it out, it’s pretty much the same result), I plunge at a 45* to depth, move in Z .003, then...

I did watch the video. Maybe I missed the part about a TNR plunge at the shoulder/tenon junction. I don’t think you touched on it, but I also think a longer thread engagement adds to stability (queue the “only need three threads” crowd!). I do absolutely agree with you that the larger diameter...

I am curious about this knocking the “yielding strength back at least 25%” due to a “thread relief” or plunging one cutting radius depth at the shoulder/tenon junction. The root of the thread would be the weakest area of the tenon due to minimum diameter and stress concentrating shape of a...

But. But. Microscopes and surface finishes…. I used carbide inserts in my wimpy 1000-1200 lb Chinese 13x40 lathe and in my 6000 lb turning center. The turning center does produce better surface finishes, but I think that’s more to do with exact and constant surface speeds than it does rigidity...

If you’re looking at insert tooling, a VBMT 331 insert in a -3* RH holder will do all OD barrel fitting work.

Another option that would be quick n dirty, use a rotary union with a male 3/8NPT, drill the muzzle with your Milwaukee, and run a 3/8NPT tap in.

I’m lucky since my genre almost always used 5/8-24 muzzle threads. I do the muzzle first. I have an adapter that serves other purposes in my setup, with female 5/8-24 on one end for the muzzle and female 5/8-18 LH threads on the other for a Deublin rotary union. I run it at 300psi, 4500 rpm...

Galling is a real thing, but if it didn't move at all, galling is likely not the issue.

HAHA! That's funny, and almost true. Coors Light starts around 1800' AMSL....

Just because someone holds a record, that neither proves or disproves that fluting a barrel is worse than a non-fluted barrel. When the vast majority of barrels being used in competition are non-fluted, it pretty much puts the odds in favor of non-fluted barrels finishing on top more often...

5-600 RPM, 300psi coolant through the bore and enough feed to ream a 6/6.5 Creedmoor size chamber in about 45 seconds with 4 pecks and substantial dwell for flushing.

Some cheap Home Depot 2” chip brushes and diesel or kerosene.

^ understands the “rule of ten”.

How do you qualify .0001”?

Chances are, temperature is not going to affect the runout much on a round part rotating in a round spindle. That said, I still bite my tongue when ever I see a gunsmith/rifle builder claiming tolerances that literally can’t be qualified in a home shop, or many “real” machine shops for that...

Don’t leave out “set-tru” style 16C collet chucks!

http://bisonchucksonline.com/Bison/Bison-Set-Tru-Chucks.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQiA4L2BBhCvARIsAO0SBdZfntQg4-wc2QKNpVstRoJjVNsogkOA2hFtgH9CLXL4svAH3DRWLMAaAs-IEALw_wcB

The right side of the tip, right? The right side, equal to the amount you infeed, right?