3 jaw chuck

sorry but it just aint true.
temp control in shop helps
but
temp works on all expansion..not just one direction.
and its a 3 , so no pairs.

set it up do the job move on

Louis.J said:
One might be able to get it too .0001 and might being the key. But it won't remain there very long so not very realistic as any temp change would actually change it. Divide it by two per each side and you are looking at pretty much it being an impossibility.
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Something one can do

to their 3 jaw chuck to true it up is to fit the backing plate a few though smaller where it registers and then knock the chuck into alignment and finally tighten it up when it runs as true as one can get it. I did that to my Chinesium 3 jaw and got it to a few tenths.

Pete
 
it's an ADJUSTABLE 3 JAW CHUCK grip in the jaws, adjustment on the od
Pete Wass said:
to their 3 jaw chuck to true it up is to fit the backing plate a few though smaller where it registers and then knock the chuck into alignment and finally tighten it up when it runs as true as one can get it. I did that to my Chinesium 3 jaw and got it to a few tenths.

Pete
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Chances are, temperature is not going to affect the runout much on a round part rotating in a round spindle.

That said, I still bite my tongue when ever I see a gunsmith/rifle builder claiming tolerances that literally can’t be qualified in a home shop, or many “real” machine shops for that matter. Sure, I strive to have minimal to no visible runout on a tenth DTI, but I’m never going to claim machining to “better than a tenth”, because quite frankly, I’ve no way to qualify it. Investing in that metrology isn’t something I feel would pay off for a rifle builder.
 
i did not see anyone say "machine to less than.0001".
nor "better than a tenth"
what i said was that dialing in to .0001 is possible in an adjustable 3 jaw chuck.

Rubicon Prec. said:
Chances are, temperature is not going to affect the runout much on a round part rotating in a round spindle.

That said, I still bite my tongue when ever I see a gunsmith/rifle builder claiming tolerances that literally can’t be qualified in a home shop, or many “real” machine shops for that matter. Sure, I strive to have minimal to no visible runout on a tenth DTI, but I’m never going to claim machining to “better than a tenth”, because quite frankly, I’ve no way to qualify it. Investing in that metrology isn’t something I feel would pay off for a rifle builder.
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this is getting childish
my indicators have marks on the dial.
there are gaps between the marks.
one can SEE less than .0001, but it is not a number.
one can adjust to .0001 with time, a quality lathe and a quality indicator.

i machine, i do not "qualify".

Rubicon Prec. said:
How do you qualify .0001”?
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Rubicon Prec. I totaly agree all this does is to turn off the new folks from even trying to do their own barrel work. Besides that the price of a precision tool room lathe that possibly could is not even in the budget for most job shops let alone for a home hobby shop. What we should be talking about is what would be the acceptable tolerance be on the higher side and one that could be easily achieved on a typical home hobby gunsmithing lathe or an equal too. We need to encourage and not to discourage them from doing their own work.
 
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i paid $4600 for a 2 year old $12000 lathe (prices at the time).
it was 220 3 phase...little "home" market. taken in trade by a commercial machine sales company.

you are pretending that "because you cannot do it, or believe it cannot be done" we should not talk about it.
bs
rubicon is a FOR PROFIT BUSINESS...and as such does not fit in a discussion on home machinist.

i am done

Louis.J said:
Rubicon Prec. I totaly agree all this does is to turn off the new folks from even trying to do their own barrel work. Besides that the price of a precision tool room lathe that possibly could is not even in the budget for most job shops let alone for a home hobby shop. What we should be talking about is what would be the acceptable tolerance be on the higher side and one that could be easily achieved on a typical home hobby gunsmithing lathe or an equal too. We need to encourage and not to discourage them from doing their own work.
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Never said I could not do it or that it could not be done just saying what type of lathe / bearings it takes and by no means is it needed to do ones own barrel and for it to end up shooting extremely competitive with a bit more tolerance. It is the entire proper process more than just dialing in a barrel to within a .0001 tolerance that might end up shooting like ___! But if done right with .0002 or possibly even more you can go out and win and to do against the best. I know and know it from personal experience by being able to do the same. In my own very competitive benchrest sport and I have been doing it now going on 24 years.
 
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Makes one wonder if he goes back and checks his work as Jackie has pointed out and would his .0001 still be there. It is not always about where you start at but also where you end up at when done.
 
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rsmithsr said:
i paid $4600 for a 2 year old $12000 lathe (prices at the time).
it was 220 3 phase...little "home" market. taken in trade by a commercial machine sales company.

you are pretending that "because you cannot do it, or believe it cannot be done" we should not talk about it.
bs
rubicon is a FOR PROFIT BUSINESS...and as such does not fit in a discussion on home machinist.

i am done
Click to expand...

I hope that you are.
 
"it was 220 3 phase...little "home" market. taken in trade by a commercial machine sales company."

The drop in VFD process has made running a 3-phase in a residence a lot easier.

And unlike the old 3-phase idler system, the VFD can produce three 120 degree phases.

The idler system was often a +/-180 degree and a 90 degree.

Enough to get a 3-phase up and running.
 
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