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Leeroy, They are different. A 3 tap set comes taper, plug and bottoming. If you only tap a blind hole with a plug tap, you will have several imperfect threads near the bottom. After the plug, you should clean out, lube and run the bottoming tap. Of course, as mentioned, with a through hole...

I gave up here asking questions a long time ago.

Beware, the engineers may replace your lathe with a cnc machine, where you'll have to be able to count pass your number of fingers to use it.

Email is better....for all parties. They always get back to me, on email, and I'd hate to take a reamer print over the phone...absurd. Hey if you just wanted the neck and freebore..maybe, but I'd rather read the print myself. I do not agree with the phone advice, email is more efficient with...

Maybe a tiny bit of TS65 moly grease on the ramp of a hunting 700? It's a lot more rainfast than ep2 grease or light oil.

Sorry to go against the grain here, but I think learning to grind ones own HSS tools from bar stock is a better path here. There will be other operations that come up that will require toolmaking. Some 3/8" HSS blanks and a starrett thread tool, is all you need to cut excellent threads in 4140...

I did notice that when I switched to a floating reamer holder (from drill chuck) I never had another one chatter. Maybe coincidence. Another note is that all of my reamers are one mfg, except 2 of them, and those two I had chatter with, on their first bbl. Ben

+1

Trouble, I chambered a 30 BR bbl 5 groove Broughton in a similar fashion as Mike described. I was very pleased with it. I turned a piece of T6061 to slip into the spindle. On the end I left a tit, around .300 tapered to .310, over 1/2" and tapped it into the uncrowned muzzle with a plastic...

5 years in college (self paid) and then getting a job and working for 16 years.

Jerry, Yes, my house, no story really. It was rebuilt after the old house started to fall in from problems underneath...rock cellar and all the rot associated. It was built around 1850, by Fords. Then was bought by Stubbs family around 1900, who farmed it dairy and green beans. Now, I have...

It's been a lot of years coming, about 15 I guess, in planning and saving. I did all of the design and 60% of the building myself.... I have a 200 yard range out the back door, for 4 season shooting. I have plans for a 300 yard dirt pile also. Thought I would share it with the folks here, who...

My old shop was built before the civil war, so i figured it was time to upgrade. So, I finished a room in my barn, insulated, heated and brought my tools in there, made some benches etc. Still organizing, but I'm pretty pleased so far. Working on a Mauser in 220 swift just now. Ben

The best advice I can give to a new reloader is.... 1. Write everything down in a log book. 2. Keep your press, shell holders, scales, brass, bench etc. CLEAN and organized. 3. Buy components bulk. 4. Scour this forum for reloading tips.

A friend gave me a nice power bandsaw. I use it to precut barrels as well. Great tool. To remove a tennon for a setback or rechamber, I have been using a HSS parting tool, or hand hacksaw.

The lathe is running Wayne. It's really quite easy. Maybe not as safe as a parting tool, but then again, I've had parting tools throw steel at me a time or two. And it's definitely safer for the workpiece, with almost no chance of moving it in the chuck. Don't worry, I burn plenty of fuel...

Does anyone just part off with a hand hack saw? That works fine for me.

I love it..a good discussion. My tuppence. Not all parting cuts are equal. When you get a tool set up right, it makes nice curls, and the metal barely warms up. I like lotsa oil for parting A poorly ground tool, with bad speed/feed gets hotter than hell, squeels like a pig, chatters and...

I would not be surpeised to see the weld crack. But WTH, it's a $200 rifle. I'd try the loctite and bedding first. Ben